Getting my cam aligned to re-install is just not happening

So, I've been fighting this thing all darn day. I just got my cam back from Hot Cams. The inner bearing would not move laterally. They sent me the same cam back after they freed it, but honestly, they did a crappy job. It still kind of sticks when I try to move it back and forth, and moves nowhere near as freely as the stock cam did. I'm only worried about it seizing up again, and I think they should have given me a new cam, it was brand new after all. One strike for Hot Cams, or Pivot Works IMO.

So, the real problem:

I have the right punch mark lined up perfectly with the arrow on my bike. It is dead nuts on. My issue is on the cam side, no matter how many times I slide over that bearing, and move the chain to where I think it will line up right, it does not. I cannot get those two lines to run even with the top of the head. One side is always lopsided. I thought I had it, tested letting the cam chain tensioner tighten up and things looked good. Snugged up the clamps that hold down the cam bearings and, yep, you guessed it, the alignement was off. I've been trying to guestimate, then when that doesn't work, I go off on purpose, nothing I do seems to work.

Also, Those clamps that bolt down over the cam seem like an iffy way to make sure the bearings dont slide. Those half moon shaped things that slide into the grooves are really hard to verify. Anyone else see this or have this issue?

Any thoughts on getting the cam gear lines to line up??????:confused::excuseme: :excuseme: :sweden:

I've found that you can set the cam in place and get the chain on the cam all the way if it's close. The with the tension all the way lessened if you start from one side to the other you can move it one tooth at a time. It's kind of a pain in the butt but it will work. You have to slide the bearing on the cam down so that the cam is not in the seats but there is just enough room to do this.

Also bring the cam chain onto the gear from the back side instead of the front, starting on the right side of the gear(it goes on like a champ).Sometimes you have to antcipate movement of the gear slightly as your rolling the chain on so start one tooh behind or ahead of your self.If this makes any sense.Hope this helps.Your gonna have to get good at it cuz you might have to take it of again if it didn't shim right.

Those half moon shaped things that slide into the grooves are really hard to verify. Anyone else see this or have this issue?

you'll know when the cam caps &clips are right.The caps kinda snap into place nice and snug and will drop right down onto the bottom clamp and close the gap.No forceing.

I found out my main problem. The cam chain came off the bottom gear. I need to pull the flywheel I think to do this now. Is there a way around yanking the flywheel without getting the special tool? I've got the cover off so I'm pretty close. I tried to sit the bike leve and finagle the chain, but no dice. Must go sleep now. almost 2 AM and I'm bummed. Really wanted to break the bike in this weekend.

Hit the Seat or Throttle Jokey have a trick to get it back on without pulling the fly wheel.You need a puller do to it any ways, but those guy's know how to get in on with a screw driver and by tilting the bike on it's side or something like that.

I've done it but it's not easy. It takes a lot of time and patience and about a six pack sitting there looking at the bike. It's much easier to pull the fly wheel if you can get a puller in short notice. But mine was not completely off it was just off a little way and come to think of it the cylinder was off at the time as well.

Sbabs,You awake yet or did you pull an all nighter!:confused:

Sbabs,You awake yet or did you pull an all nighter!:confused:

I'm heading out there right now. Cross your fingers, I'm hoping I don't need to pull the head and cylinder back off, and I don't have a puller so I'd rather try to get lucky. We shall see.

The thing that sucks about this is once I get it timed right, I have to check the valves and if I have to adjust I have to do it all freakin over again. I don't like the timing setup on this bike at all. It's a royal pain.

Try having two cams.Use a piece of wire to keep the chain tight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Connor Wright
      Hey I have a crf250x 2005 I was riding today in top gear flat out and when I slowed down blue smoke just poured out the exsaughst then I happened to open the air box lid and saw it has what looked like engine oil in it then took out air filter and noticed that there was splatters of engine oil on the inside and that and the channel that goes to the carby had engine oil all over it.
      Also bike got a top end rebuild 15 hours ago
      The engine still runs good and sounds normal
      why would this be happening on a resonabley fresh engine
    • By mikemcbride
      Hey everybody. Quick question for y'all. I recently went riding and about halfway through my ride my motor seized on my '07 CRF250X. I haven't investigated it much but I checked the oil when I got home and there basically was none so I'm assuming that was the culprit. There weren't any metal shavings in the filter or on the plug either. At this point I'm trying to decide to rebuild the motor or just sell the bike as is and let the next buyer deal with it (they would know the deal obviously.) I feel that I'm pretty mechanically inclined but rebuilding a CRF engine is a bit out of my league and I assume paying a shop to do it would put me out more money than the bike is worth. So, I have this question to ask; what would be a fair price for a pretty dang nice shape 07 CRF250X, with a seized motor with an unknown extent of internal damage?
    • By ThomasM.
      selling Hot Cams Valve Shim Kit that i bought for my 2005 crf250x, will also fit crf250r.
      used 1x 1.30 and 2x 1.55 shims. the rest is still there.
      $60usd shipped in the usa or canada
      please contact me for pictures or if you are not sure if it will fit your bike
    • By TerryA
      I have two rides in on my new Rekluse auto clutch and I have to say I'm very pleased. The install wasn't hard, but was pretty much a all afternoon sort of project. I also installed a left hand rear brake kit and a two finger cluth over-ride with the adjuster on the perch (which I rarely seem to need). It has all worked great right from the beginning. After struggling to get up a tricky hill in first gear, I tried it in second and the autoclutch helped me clean the hill easily. Not having to worry about clutch action in techinical sessions has also eased fatigue and just made it more fun all the way around. I ride mountain bikes alot, and having both brakes up on the bars has also been nice as it makes for a set-up just like the bicycle - in fact I like that as much as not having to worry about clutch manipulation. The brake on the bar is especially nice on tricky downhill sections where you need to paddle, such as nasty rock/rut stuff. So first impressions are that it was worth the investment -making the ride more enjoyable and easier at the same time!
    • By Mikey560
      I was driving the bike for 15min or so and all of the sudden the bike stalled. I tried starting it again with no luck. I took the spark plug out to see if there is spark so i ground the spark plug to the frame and there is no spark. I even put a new spark plug in the bike and still nothing. Any ideas what i should check??