Bike choice

I'm lookin to get a bike just to ride around wit my friends. I was originally lookin to get a ttr 125 but i was told it'd be to small for me (5'7 140lbs). would the crf150f be a good fit? and bein brand new to riding, is gettin a brand new bike a bad decision?

yeah 150 should fit well, are u looking for power or anything? or just trail riding with friends?

What size of bikes do your friends ride? A 150f will fit you nice, much better than the tt-r actually. Don't make a mistake in getting a bike too small, you may even want a 230. How old are you? You may grow out of a 150 fast even if it is your first bike.


I'm just lookin for a trail riding bike and i'm 18 yrs old.

230f for sure then

go for the 230, great trail bike

Well, at 5'7 the 230 may be a little tall, but if your 18 you should already be filled in enough to handle the height and weight. 230F forsure though, you will out grow the 150 so fast. Especially if your buying a brand new bike, you want to make sure you get the right one. I'm asssuming this isn't the first time you've ridden a bike?


I've ridden a few times before. but i'm still learnin.

idk hes 5 7...u can fit on the 230 no doubt... but i think u will just make it flat foot on the 150

Well its simple, go to your dealer and sit on a 230. If you feel the bike isn't too much go for it. Your not giving us much input here, what are your thoughts on the 230? Is it in your budget? Were you gonna get a bike soon or just "thinking" of getting one? Maybe you want an XR 200. They are cheap to buy and only mildly inferior to the 230.

Yah the 230 all the way. I am 5'7 and can fit a 450 on my tip toes. the 230 should be no problem at all. the 150 is a little underpowered for me now.

150 is a good learing bike....230 is a little heavier and taller for someone his size thats not an experienced rider,..not that it would be a bad choice.either..the ttr stock is too small.....if you find one like the one like i have with yz susp tall seat bar risers and 150 kit...and there are alot of modded bikes out there...then it is every bit at least the 150f equivalent thats lighter, taller, and handles better.for trail riding and out run a stock 150f.....stock ttr to small and nor enough power..... and too expensive to buy new and mod..the 230 you wont outgrow as fast but im not much on overkill for a kind kills confidence and and the bbr 175 kit adds alot of power very cheaply when you need it....sit on both 150 and 230 and go from there.:confused:

He shouldnt have to worry about the weight of the 230. Like i said I am 13 and can pick it up with ease.

blahhhhhh get the 150, im 5'4, and i ride a 150, but i know a girl whos 5'11 and rides a 150.

The 150 will fit him but he will grow out of it quick.

I am 5'7 and it is looking kind of small for me. I used to be on my toes a little but now I am flat footed on it.

Keep your eyes open for a CLEAN used bike.

150's and 230's are not racebikes, therefore you can find nice used ones.

right now the market is pretty soft, there are some great deals out there. I have been seeing 230's going for $1900-$2200.00 for 2005 models.

Look for a bike with factory tires and the paint still on the frame near the footpegs. Ignore plastic scratches, they all get those the first time through a brushy area.

these bikes are notorious for being purchased for a wifes, son or daughter that decides that they do not want to ride.

the 230 may be a little tall for tight trail riding, im 5'8 and its as tall as i want . you can trim a little off of the top of the seat and make a world of difference.

the 230 is a little heaver....but the e-start is AWESOME for the woods.

good luck and happy riding!!!

Since the CRF 150 is approximately 400-700 $$ cheaper than the crf 230, i would recommend for your height to buy a used CRF 150 F and then install a Big Bore. Dyno results have shown that a Big Bored crf 150 gives out about the same amount of power that a crf 230 dishes out with a pipe. So why not have the power of crf 230 in a smaller, lighter frame. That would surely kick ass in tight trails, open trails and even a MX track if you do suspension mods.

Have fun choosing! :confused::excuseme:

He shouldnt have to worry about the weight of the 230. Like i said I am 13 and can pick it up with ease.

its not picking it up thats the problem....its riding a larger heavy bike with authority....when you are just starting 5'11 170.and trail my 150 all the time...its a good size for tight trails....esp if you have the susp tuned well and a few more horses....if you like trail riding , you dont grow out of these...they fit adults well,,,,i have a bigger faster bike and some rides a i def, prefer to ride it,,,,,but for tighter one ways....i love the 4 str .minis....its a different kind of fun that if youre into, you never grow out of...

Thats why i am going to keep my bike until it rusts to dust.

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  • Similar Content

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      Jetting the 230F
      By: Phil Vieira
      This project takes no less than 2 hours if you have never done jetting to a bike before. It took me 1.5 hours, to take my bike apart, take out the needle, change my pilot jet and the main, and take pictures along the way, but I have seen the inside of my carb 3 times, so I know my way around it pretty well…
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      Part numbers:
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      99113-GHB-XXX0 – Main jet (Where XXX is the size)
      99103-MT2-0XX0 – Pilot jet (Where XX is the size)
      For the Jets, just tell them you need jets for a regular Keihn carb, (also known as a Keihn Long Hex) main jet size XXX, pilot jet size XX. They should know the part numbers. For the needle, bring the number along. If you are lazy, they should have a fiche and they can look up the numbers. Then again you can take in the old jets, and make sure they match up to the new ones.

      Now, the tools you will need are as follows:

      ~A collecting cup of some sort. I used a peanut butter jar.
      ~Ratchets for the following sizes:
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      - Extension for the sockets needed
      ~Phillips and Flathead screwdriver (Be sure these are in perfect condition. A badly worn screwdriver will strip the screws)
      ~Needle nose pliers
      ~”Vise grips” or known as locking pliers (Two)
      ~Open end wrench 7mm and 12mm
      ~ It’s a good idea to have a extra hand around
      (Not needed, but I highly recommend tiny Phillips and flathead screwdrivers (Pictured next to the jar and the ¼” extension) I recommend these for removing a couple things since you can put pressure with your thumb on the end and unscrew it with the other hand. This insures that you will not over tighten any parts, and ensure that you will not strip the heads of the bolts.
      Ok, now that you have the tools, let’s start by putting the bike on a bike stand. I put it on the stand rather than the kickstand because it’s more stable and sits higher. I hate working on my knees. Start by taking the number plates off. Yes, both of them. The right side, you take off one bolt and the top comes off of its rubber grommets, pull the top off, and the plate comes right off. The left hand side, use the 10mm socket to take the battery bolts off, and then take the Phillips bolt near the back. Again, rubber grommets are used to hold the top in place. Take the seat off. There are two mounting bolts on the back:

      Those two bolts are both a 12mm socket. Use the open end wrench on the inside, and use the socket on the outside. You may need to use an extension if you don’t have a deep socket. Once you have the two bolts off, slide the seat back, and lift it up. This is what you have. Notice there is a hook in the middle and a knob on the tank. That is what you are sliding the seat off of.

      Now that the seat is off, you must take the gas tank off. Don’t worry, you won’t spill any gas any where, I promise. On the left hand side of the bike where the valve is, slide down the metal clip holding the tube in place. Turn off the gas supply, and slip the tube off slowly. Now take off the two bolts in the front of the take. This is on the lowest part of the gas tank in the front, behind the tank shrouds. The socket you will use is an 8mm socket. Take the bolts all the way off and set them aside. Now look back at the last picture posted. On the back of the tank, there is a rubber piece connected to the knob and the frame. Slip that rubber piece off of the frame. Pull the vent tube out of the steering stem and lift the tank up. Don’t tip it, and lay the tank aside where you won’t trip on it. This is what you’ll end up with:

      It may be a good idea to take a rag, and wipe all the dirt off the top of the bike if any. You don’t want anything dropping down into the carb. If you do, engine damage is the result. A clean bike is always a good thing! Now we must drain the gas out into that container. This is very easy. Make sure you open the garage door, windows, whatever, to let the fumes out. Breathing this crap is bad. Here is where the drain screw is:

      (Don’t worry about removing the carb, that comes later) This is on the right side of the carb, on the float bowl. The vent tube that goes down to the bottom of the bike is where the gas drains to. Put the jar under that tube and start to unscrew that screw, enough so that the gas leaks into that jar. Once the gas doesn’t drip anymore, close the screw all the way. Now on to the top of the carb. We are going to take this cover off:

      This cover comes off by removing the two screws. Once removed, the lid comes off as well as the gasket. Flip it over and set it aside. Do not set the gasket side down on the ground, as it will get contaminants! Here is what you are facing:

      The angle of the camera cannot show the two screws. But one is visible. It has a red dot, and opposite of that side is a darker red dot. I made it darker because it’s not visible, but that is where it is. This is where I use the miniature screw drivers to get the screws. I magnetize the screwdrivers, and use care to make sure I don’t strip the heads. Metal pieces in a piston are not good! Remove the two screws. Put these screws on a clean surface so they do not get contaminants. Now get your vise grips and set it so that it will lock onto the throttle, not too tight, not too loose. Set the vise grips on the seat. Start to open the throttle slowly as you guide that “plunger holder” (as I call it) up to the top. Once you have the throttle all the way open, take the vise grips, and lock it so that the throttle does not go back any more. What I do is I hold it pinned and lock it up against the brake so it doesn’t rewind on me. If you don’t have locking grips, a friend will do, just have them hold the throttle open all the way until you are finished. How fold the plunger holder to the back of the carb and pull the piece up to the top. Take care not to remove it, as it is a pain to get back together! If it came apart on you, this is what it should be assembled to:

      Once you get the holder out of the slider, set it back like this:

      As you can see, the bar is back 45 degrees, while the holder is forward 45 degrees to make a S. Here is what you are faced with when you look down on the carb:

      Where the red dot is where the needle lies. Grab needle nose pliers and carefully pull up the needle out of its slot. This is what the needle looks like once it is out.

      Now we must move the carb to take the bowl off. Untie the two straps on the front and back of the carb. Don’t take them off; just loosen them until the threads are at the end. Take the front of the carb off the boot and twist the bowl as much as you can towards you. Tie the back tie down to that it does not rewind back on you. This is what you have:

      Now we must take off the bowl. Some people take that hex nut off to change the main jet, which you can, but you cannot access the pilot jet, and you can’t take out the needle jet (a piece the needle slides into), so we need to take it off. It’s just three bolts. As we look at the underside of the carb, this is what you will see:

      The bolts with the red square dots are the bolts you will be removing. These are Phillips head bolts, and the bolt with the blue dot is your fuel screw. This is what you will adjust when the time comes, but keep in mind where that bolt is. You need a small flat blade to adjust it.
      Well, take those screws off, and you are faced with this:

      The blue dot is for cross reference, which is the fuel screw once again. The green dot is the pilot jet. You can remove this using a flat blade screwdriver. Just unscrew it and pull it out. Once you pull it out, set it aside and put in the 45 pilot jet you got. The red dot is the main. You remove this by using a 6mm socket. Just unscrew it. If the whole thing turns, not just the jet, but the 7mm sized socket under it, don’t worry, that piece has to come out as well. If it doesn’t, use a 7mm to unscrew it off. Here is what the jets look like:

      Pilot Jet

      Main jet attached to the tube. Take the main jet off by using an open end wrench and a socket on the jet. Again, it screws right off.
      Here is what you are faced with if you look form the bottom up.

      From left to right: Main jet, Pilot Jet, Fuel screw. Now in the main jet’s hole, if you look closely, you see a bronze piece in the middle of that hole. We are going to take this off. Since I did not do this part (I only changed my pilot jet when I took these pictures) there are no pictures taken for this section but this is really simple to do if you’ve been a good student and know where things go. You should know anyways, you have to put the bike back together!
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      (Notice: Many people have destroyed jets and such by overtighting them! Use the thumb on the head of the wrench and two fingers on the wrench to tighten it down.)
      Thread the main jet into the tube it goes into, and then start putting it back on the carb. Thread the pilot jet in as well if you haven’t done so already. Remember these carburetor metals are soft as cheese, so don’t over tighten the jets very much. What I do is I put my thumb on the top of my ratchet, and use two fingers closest to the head of the ratchet to tighten the jet. That’s how tight I go when I tie them back in.
      Now before we put the carb back together, let’s adjust the fuel screw. Take a small screwdriver, and start screwing in the fuel screw until it sets. Again, do not over tighten, just let it set. Then count back your turns. Count back 1.75 turns.
      Now we must put the bowl back on. The white piece that came off with the bowl goes back as followed:

      If you look directly under the carb, the round hole is aligned with the pilot jet. Take the float bowl, and put it back on.
      Untie the rear clamp and the front clamp as well. Slip the carb back the way it used to. Make sure that it is straight up and down with the rest of the bike. The notch on the front boot should be aligned with the notch on the carburetor, and the notch on the carburetor should be in that slot. Tie the clamps down securely.
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      The top clip position is #1, the lowest one, closest to the bottom, is #5. (The picture says six but it is five in this case) For reference #1 is the leanest position, while 5 is the richest. I put the clip in the 4th position. Read at the bottom of the page and you can know what conditions I ride in, and you can adjust them to your preference.
      Put the clip in the new needle, slip it in. Take the vise grips off your grips and start guiding the plunger holder down to the bottom. Remember not to let that assembly come apart because it is a pain in the ass to get it back together! Once you get it to the bottom, put the two screws on, and then put the cover on.
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      As you can see, you can slip your fingers in and pull it out. Do that. This lets more air in to the air box. Don’t worry about water getting in. There is a lip that is about 1/8” high that doesn’t let water in. When you wash, don’t spray a lot under the seat, but don’t worry about it too much.
      The next thing you must do is remove the exhaust baffle. The screw is a torx type, or you can carefully use an allen wrench and take care not to strip it:

      The screw is at the 5 o’clock position and all you do is unscrew it, reach in, and yank it out. This setup still passes the dB test. The bike runs 92 dB per AMA standards, which is acceptable. Just carry this baffle in your gear bag if the ranger is a jerk off. I’ve never had a problem, but don’t take chances.
      That’s it! Start putting your tank on, seat, and covers. After you put the seat on, pull up on the front, and the middle of the seat to make sure the hooks set in place.
      Turn on the bike, and take a can of WD-40. Spray the WD-40 around the boot where it meets the carburetor. If the RPM rises, you know you have a leak, and the leak must be stopped. You must do this to make sure there are no leaks!
      Here is my configuration:
      04’ 230F
      Uni Air filter
      132 Main Jet
      45 Pilot Jet
      Power up needle, 4th clip position
      Fuel screw 1.75 turns out
      Riding elevation: 2000ft - Sea level
      Temperature – Around 60-90 degrees
      Spark Plug Tips
      When you jet your carb, a spark plug is a best friend. Make sure your spark plug is gapped correctly, (.035) but that’s not all that matters. You want to make sure the electrode is over the center, and you want the electrode to be parallel, not like a wave of a sea. Put in the plug, and run the bike for 15 mins, ride it around too then turn it off. Then take off the spark plug after letting the bike cool. The ceramic insulator should be tan, like a paper bag. If it is black, it is running rich, if it is white, it is running lean. The fuel screw should be turned out if it is running lean, and turned in if it is running rich. Go ¼ turns at a time until your plug is a nice tan color.
      Making sure your bike is jetted correctly
      While you are running the bike for those 15 mins to check the plug color, you want to make sure it’s jetted correctly now. Here is what the jets/needle/screw control:
      0- 3/8 throttle – Pilot jet
      ¼ to ¾ throttle – Needle
      5/8 – full throttle – Main jet
      0-Full – Fuel screw
      Pin the gas, does it bog much? Just put around, is it responsive? When you’re coming down a hill, the rpm’s are high and you have no hand on the throttle, does it pop? If it pops, it is lean and the pilot jet should be bigger. If it’s responsive your needle is set perfectly. You shouldn’t have to go any leaner than the 3rd position, but I put mine in the 4th position to get the most response. Your bike shouldn’t bog much when you have it pinned. If it does it is too rich of a main jet.
      Determining the plug color, you will have to mess with the fuel screw.
      That’s it, have fun jetting, and any questions, post on the forum, but remember to do a search first.
      Also, if your bike requires different jets due to alititude, humidity, or temperature, please post the following so we can better assist you:
      Average temperature
      Altitude (If you do not know this, there is a link in the Jetting forum that you can look up your alititude)
      Average Humidity
      What jets you are currently running
      What the problem is (If there is one)
      Just do that and we'll help you out the best we can.
      EDIT: The girl using this login name is my girlfriend. You can reach me on my new login name at 250Thumpher
      Then again, you're more than welcome to say hi to her!
      -Phill Vieira
    • By jason230
      Well I figured this would be a cool thread to have seeing as how quite a few of us have gotten pretty far into upgrading our 150/230s. This will be helpfull for those looking into getting things for their bike so they can see what everything looks like.
      '05 CRF230:
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      -Factory FX #'s
      -Renthal 7/8ths MC bend w/ soft half waffle grips
      -BBR +1/2" shift lever
      -BBR revbox
      -White Bros. R-4 Full Exhaust
      -Twin-Air and White Bros. airfilters
      -White Bros. 112main and 48pilot jets
      -Dunlop D756's w/ MSR Ultra Heavy Duty tubes