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Need oil analysis from Grayracer513

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Hey Gray got a non YZ but oil related question for ya. Seems awhile back you had some well informed and interesting things to say about oil choices when I was swearing by Yama-lube (I've now switched to Amsoil for the YZ) and now I have an issue with Husqvarnas required weight for their SM610.

They call for 10W60 which I can't understand (only other bike I've ever heard of needing that was a Harley) and there are so few manufacturers of that weight that I've been forced to buy Motorex out of Switzerland for $60/4liters (gasp!).

Does it really matter changing oil weight from manufacturers specs, cuz if not I'll run Amsoil 10/50 in the Husky same as the Yamaha.

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It's hard to imagine an engine needing a 60 weight under any circumstance. YZF's can use oils ranging from 30 to 50 weight under the right temperature conditions, and I'm fairly certain that XR650's don't run anything like a 60. I personally would have no problem running a good, high grade oil like Mobil 1 V-Twin (20w-50) or Amsoil MCV "Synthetic Motorcycle Oil" 20w-50 in the bike. It would be prudent to keep the oil change intervals fairly short if the bike uses engine oil to lube the trans, at least until an oil analysis is done. If the engine oil is separate, then there's no worry at all.

What's the coldest weather you ride in?

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Engine oil same as trans and coldest weather I ride in is maybe 50deg but summers here are mid to high 80's.

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So I need a quick lesson in oil reading, is it the first or second number that indicates weight. I thought the 60 part of 10W60 meant it was way heavy.

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It does. The second number is the SAE viscosity of the oil at 100 degrees Celsius, or 212 F, so that is what the oil is during fully warmed up operation.

The first number with the trailing "W" is the SAE equivalent cold viscosity. There is no standard temperature for this to be rated at, but most of the time, 70 F is about right. Technically, a 20w-50 oil is a 20 weight base stock that's been enhanced with additives so that it will still be as viscous as a straight 50 weight once both oils are warmed up to 212.

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It's hard to imagine an engine needing a 60 weight under any circumstance. YZF's can use oils ranging from 30 to 50 weight under the right temperature conditions, and I'm fairly certain that XR650's don't run anything like a 60. I personally would have no problem running a good, high grade oil like Mobil 1 V-Twin (20w-50) or Amsoil MCV "Synthetic Motorcycle Oil" 20w-50 in the bike. It would be prudent to keep the oil change intervals fairly short if the bike uses engine oil to lube the trans, at least until an oil analysis is done. If the engine oil is separate, then there's no worry at all.

What's the coldest weather you ride in?

You dont like the Yamalube oils?

Thats all I have used in 2-400s,3-250s,3-450s. only problem 03 250 broke a rod in the middle of it.

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No, not in the least.

+1 :bonk:

Gray talked me into ditching that stuff last year after seeing the independent analisis on all popular brands of oil and what happens to them at OT. Been using Amsoil ever since in the YZ and now will use it in the Husky knowing I can get away with 20/50 in place of 10/60.

But please, please, please...don't turn this into an oil brand allegiance debate thread. :prof: All I intended was a discussion concerning oil weights.

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Just wondering.

How about Shell Roteela 15w40 CJ_4? any thoughts?

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Gray - Do you have a recommendation for an oil analysis outfit? Thanks.

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Thanks. Just ordered a kit from Blackstone. I'm a dino Rotella user and am hearing too many negative things about this oil. I need some peace of mind. Will post back with the results.

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Most of what you see will show a good result, but watch for the viscosity at 100 c (212 F). That's where many oils fall short in the role of lubing a transmission.

When taking oil samples, observe the following:

Take the sample from the oil tank as soon after riding as is practical (be careful of hot oil! let it cool a little first)

Take a sample only after the engine has been run up to full operating temperature for at least 30 minutes. If it runs for less time than that, you'll have a lot of fuel in the oil, and the numbers will be wrong because of it.

If you clean the drain plug with any sort of solvent or soap, dry it off before taking the sample.

Wear metals will show as higher than normal for an engine because it has a transmission in the mix. Remind the analyzer of that in the comment section of your submission form.

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