Jump to content

Lowered WR250R

Recommended Posts

So I finally got around to lowering my WR250R. It wasn't too difficult and took less than an hour to do.





Channel Locks (Large)

1/2" Ratchet

6" extension for 1/2" Ratchet

19mm socket (for Connecting Rod)

17mm socket (for Relay Arm)

Adjustable Wrench

1/2" Torque Wrench

3/8" Torque Wrench

3/8" to 1/2" socket adapter (only for torque wrench)


Motorcycle Stand

1. Put Motorcycle on stand.

2. Remove the Connecting Rod Nut. You will need to use the punch and hammer to remove the Connecting Rod Bolt from the Relay Arm. The Connecting Rod is the Rod from the frame to the Relay Arm. The Relay Arm is the "L" shaped piece. The Connecting Rod should fall away.


3. Remove the Lower Shock Nut. You will need to use the punch and hammer to remove the Lower Shock Bolt from the from the Relay Arm. The parts should separate.


4. Put a jack under the rear tire and jack up the rear tire to move all of the linkages away from the lower shock mount.


5. Use the Channel Locks to hold the Lower Shock Block. Use the adjustable wrench to loosen the Jam Nut. Lower Jam Nut and Lower Shock Block to desired position.

6. The Lower Shock Block is asymmetrical. The Lower Shock Nut goes on the right side of the bike. You will need to position it accordingly and tighten the Jam Nut. Do not cinch the jam nut against the rebound adjuster.


7. Now everything is ready to go back together. Lower the rear tire off of the jack. You will need to manually lift the rear tire and align the Lower Shock Bolt hole with the Relay Arm hole. It's easier to use a punch to insert in the hole to get things close. With the holes aligned and the punch in the hole, push the bolt through. You might have to tap the bolt lightly with the hammer. The punch will simply fall out as you push the bolt through.

8. Follow the same procedure for the Connecting Rod. It's easier to do this step with a second person lifting up on the rear tire.

9. Tighten the Lower Shock Bolt to 38 ft-lb and the Connecting Rod Bolt to 58 ft-lb.


Hope this helps everyone.

  • Like 1
  • Helpful 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the picture tutorial, this is very useful. Please explain what you mean by "Lower Jam Nut and Lower Shock Block to desired position". I think to lower the seat, you screw the jam nut (and then lower shock block) up towards the bottom of the shock, and you raise seat height by screwing these two away from the bottom of the shock. Or?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hermit - That is correct. You screw the Lower Jam Nut higher towards the dampener adjuster. You then screw the Lower Shock Block towards the Jam Nut. Look closely at the picture and you can see the before and after difference of threads showing or lack thereof. Hope that helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice writeup, Thanks! A question I had was whether the forks needed to be moved up in the triple-clamp in order to keep the overall geometry correct? Typically, lowering just from the rear changes the rake unless the forks are also moved. This tends to slow steering response and make the bike a little more susceptible to understeer (pushing.) Just curious...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay so I was a little bored this afternoon and got around to lowering my front as well.

The tools;

3/8" Ratchet

10mm socket

6" extension for ratchet

6" Ruler

3/8" Torque Wrench

1. Place WR on stand

2. Place Automotive Jack underneath the front tire. My jack has about a 5" lowered height. Leave the jack in the low position.


3. Loosen the lower triple clamp bolts on both sides.

4. Loosen the upper triple clamp bolts on both sides.


5. Grabbing one of the fork legs and holding onto the handlebars, push the fork leg up in the triple clamp to desired height.

6. Do the same to the other fork leg. I measured out 5/8" from the top of the fork tube (not top of cap).


7. Tighten all of the bolts to 16.5ft-lb.


The job was very quick and should take around 20 minutes.

  • Helpful 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Is it possible to remove the nut to lower it some more? Does the nut actually need to be there? Cz its not like the lower part of the shock can rotate.

Blaster91 - I don't know if removing the nut is a good idea. There is an inherent amount of slop between threads. I would be concerned about the continuous banging and eventually stipping out the threads. Replacing the lower shock block won't be a big deal but the rebound adjuster knob would be damaged as well.

johnnyaggro - replied to you in your thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

stom - thanks for your excellent post !!

Just closed a deal on a wr250r, and as part of the deal asked the dealer to lower the bike 1". They weren't aware it could be done so easily until I emailed your post to them. They are now much wiser *grin*

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Here's instructions for the bad boys that santa didn't give lotsa tools n' stuff:

From the right side of the bike, dig a cold chisel in near the corner of the jam nut and tap it in the leftyloosie direction then spin it up against the rebound dial then grab the shaft above the dial with needlenosed visegrips and turn it in the rightytighty direction a few dozen times until you run out of threads then re-tighten the jam nut and chisel-tap it rightytighty to the proper torque value.

Feel free to tell me how I'm destroying my shock but please give a detailed explaination; I can't figure how that rebound damper works; but a few test miles on pavement don't seem abnormal.

Also raised the fork in the clamps 3/4" per stom_m3.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

  • Create New...