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Lowered WR250R

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You can run the WR250 in several ways.

Stock non lowered, bike at its tallest

Stock lowered about 1 inch via the clevis/shock mount

YamaLink and the aforementioned 1 inch stock lowering option together

Just the YamaLink

Are you supposed to put the rear shock back in the non-lowered position when using the Yamalink? I have mine lowered using the ride height adjuster and have the Yamalink.

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Rick Ramsey notes for his R (I know you mentioned X)..... http://rickramsey.net/WR250Rmods.htm#lower

from what I know. Yes, you can use the Yamalink and the stock lowering option on the shock.

Can you please measure your seat height for me?

So has anyone measured with a ruler on how much their bike has been lowered? Anybody know the answer,, to the nearest tenth (ie: 1.75" or 2.2")

WRX stock height= 35.2"

if Yamalink can get it to 33" Im going to purchase this bike and a Yamalink

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Ironically, even though Yamaha has given us the ride height adjuster, there is nothing in any of the Yamaha literature, that I have found, that mentions it. Only astute WR² riders on the internet have the inside scoop. LOL!

Bingo! I actually found it mentioned one place: If you look at Yami's "Dual Purpose" brochure, at the edge of the page, printed sideways relative to the pictures, is a small text block, with this sentence slid in there:

"An aluminum/steel hybrid frame mounts a trick asymmetrical swingarm with an adjustable shock clevis that lets you lower the seat height nearly inch."

That was on the "R" page, there's a similar sentence on the "X" page.

This is the '09 brochure, btw; I assume there's a similar mention in brochures of other years, but I can only personally vouch for '09.

-Kevin

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I have a quick question about the suspension. I recently bought a used 08 WRR that is pretty well modified. It has suspension, big bore, pipe, programmer, seat etc...

I would like to lower the bike using the stock suspension method as I can only tip toe the ground as it stands.

I'm not sure if the previous owner had raised or lowered the suspension but he did put on a seat concepts tall seat so it leads me to believe he may have.

So my question is, for those that have lowered the rear shock completely and have also lowered the front forks, what is the total measurement from fork cap to mount. Is it 3/4 inch total or is that how much it was moved?

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I have a quick question about the suspension. I recently bought a used 08 WRR that is pretty well modified. It has suspension, big bore, pipe, programmer, seat etc...

I would like to lower the bike using the stock suspension method as I can only tip toe the ground as it stands.

I'm not sure if the previous owner had raised or lowered the suspension but he did put on a seat concepts tall seat so it leads me to believe he may have.

So my question is, for those that have lowered the rear shock completely and have also lowered the front forks, what is the total measurement from fork cap to mount. Is it 3/4 inch total or is that how much it was moved?

Nevermind, I re-read post five and found the answer: "6. Do the same to the other fork leg. I measured out 5/8" from the top of the fork tube (not top of cap)."

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Hi all...

 

I've read and re-read all I can find on the subject.

I printed the instructions for yamalink and stock lowering adjustment.

I installed the yamalink no problem but when it came time to raise the stock block up the shaft, I couldnt. I screwed the big nut up towards the knob adjuster and when I tried turning the clevis everything turned with it and it was very tight. Is the threaded shaft supposed to turn too or maybe it's stuck in the block with lock-tight? The clevis, the shaft, the knob and the upper cylinder with two flat edges, everything turns together???

 

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

Cheers!

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Hi all...
 
I've read and re-read all I can find on the subject.
I printed the instructions for yamalink and stock lowering adjustment.
I installed the yamalink no problem but when it came time to raise the stock block up the shaft, I couldnt. I screwed the big nut up towards the knob adjuster and when I tried turning the clevis everything turned with it and it was very tight. Is the threaded shaft supposed to turn too or maybe it's stuck in the block with lock-tight? The clevis, the shaft, the knob and the upper cylinder with two flat edges, everything turns together???
 
Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Cheers!

 

NEVER MIND..........

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Hi Duro,

I have the same problem like yours, I knew it could be turned but its very tight to do it. And I gave up on lowering the rear shock.

Can you show me how you turn that shock block please.

Thanks.

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Hi Duro,

I have the same problem like yours, I knew it could be turned but its very tight to do it. And I gave up on lowering the rear shock.

Can you show me how you turn that shock block please.

Thanks.

Hey, sorry for the delay!

when you turn the block up make sure to stop the upper part (small cylinder with two flats) from turning. The block will screw up on the shatf. Give it a try, you'll see!

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