Aftermarket fuel screw. Why not aluminum???

I need to get an aftermarket fuel screw for my 05 525 as it is beyond a pain in the A to get to the stocker. Also, I refuse to buy a tool to adjust my fuel screw!

I read somewhere that aluminum fuel screws are not a good idea on these carbs. However, on my CRF 450r I had an MSR aluminum screw and it worked great! The carbs are very similar, whats wrong with an aluminum fuel screw?

they say the Al, will stick in there and break off, however I've had the zip ty AL one in my 525 for years with zero trouble, maybe its just a ham fisted operator? I dont know but If I had to get another in would be brass.

Mike

I've had 2 aluminum ones over the last 4 years no problems. I understand the reasoning to go with brass, but personally I've had no reason to change.

We've been making our own now for years. Go to a model or hobby shop and buy a piece of 3/16's brass tubing it's used for making frames for model planes and costs about 80 cents. It fits perfectly over the stock brass adjuster and you can just soldier[sp] it in place. I've used epoxy as well and it never comes off. Cut it to the right length and make an adjuster for the end. We've used small split pins after we've drilled a small hole in the tubing or epoxyied a small nut onto the tubing. Then take the 25 bucks you've saved and buy yourself something that you really need instead.

We've been making our own now for years. Go to a model or hobby shop and buy a piece of 3/16's brass tubing it's used for making frames for model planes and costs about 80 cents. It fits perfectly over the stock brass adjuster and you can just soldier[sp] it in place. I've used epoxy as well and it never comes off. Cut it to the right length and make an adjuster for the end. We've used small split pins after we've drilled a small hole in the tubing or epoxyied a small nut onto the tubing. Then take the 25 bucks you've saved and buy yourself something that you really need instead.

great idea. gas for you. :thumbsup:

Brass fuel screw material is your best choice, and the reason the factory bikes use them.

Occasionally aluminum tipped fuel screws will jamb and break at the tip.

Stainless is tougher, but this is not a high wear part of the carb and having the fuel screw softer would be preferred to damaging an expensive carburetor.

James

.........

The fuel screws with brass tips like Scott's and Kouba work well and usually measure with precision tolerances close to stock.

Thanks,

James

Heres what JD has said in the past- I have read this over and over from Eddie S. too- Tolerances and materials,

ZIPTY and the like (anything anodized cept for the modular 2 piece ones with brass tips) might work and not break on you- but they have on many so its a fyi.... also if you look at your pilot size and adjust your fuel screw properly- your settings may curiously be different than a riding buddy with the same bike... due to machining tolerances. NO difference- right is right but if you need a 40 pilot and your buddy uses a 45 you might ask why- and its because of the machining.. just not as consistant in many cases. for what it's worth...:thumbsup:

btw- I also extend stock screws simmular to above- with brass and solder.

have heard of people using a length of auto brakeline too.

Thanks guys, I'm going to give the solder thing a shot. I'll report back to you.:thumbsup:

Just an FYI red electrical butt-connector also fits.

:thumbsup: It worked like a champ! Instead of round 3/16th I got hexagonal. It's easily twisted by the fingers and I drilled a tiny hole in one side and two holes on the opposite side so there is a reference of how many turns. Using the solder made it come out pretty clean. Thanks for the advice, fuel for you!!!:thumbsup:

I just find it hard to believe that in this day and age that machining tollerances on the fuel screw would make such a difference, that you may need one or 2 sizes different on the pilot jet,

Mike

Heres what JD has said in the past- I have read this over and over from Eddie S. too- Tolerances and materials,

ZIPTY and the like (anything anodized cept for the modular 2 piece ones with brass tips) might work and not break on you- but they have on many so its a fyi.... also if you look at your pilot size and adjust your fuel screw properly- your settings may curiously be different than a riding buddy with the same bike... due to machining tolerances. NO difference- right is right but if you need a 40 pilot and your buddy uses a 45 you might ask why- and its because of the machining.. just not as consistant in many cases. for what it's worth...:thumbsup:

btw- I also extend stock screws simmular to above- with brass and solder.

have heard of people using a length of auto brakeline too.

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