Sprocket recommendations please....

I currently have a 14/47 set up on my Drz400s but I do more road miles than trail so looking to change the gearing to something more suitable.

It seems to be cheaper and easier to replace the front sprocket - so can anyone give feedback on a combination of 16/47? Or any suggestions?

Thanks.:thumbsup:

I just got done running my 16/47 in the desert two weekends ago. Grant it I have the Yoshimura 450 which negates the effects that taller gearing would have on losing bottom end. I personally love the combo.

Most people here on TT agree that the 16 tooth front helps immensely. The DRZ is really buzy, and the larger front sprocket helps to spread the torque of the engine out alot. It lets you use the gears for a little bit longer amount of time before needing to shift.

www.drivenracing.com has what is considered the best replacement for the DRZ. All the DRZ400s, S,SM,E for all the years, have the same front sprocket so don't loose heart if they don't list your year.

Thanks for the quick reply!

Did your bike need any mods in order to fit the 16 tooth or did it fit straight on? Seems that some people say it doesn`t fit without mods, or is that for 16 tooth sprokets from companies other than driven?

If you have an S you should be able to wedge a 16t on there with little to no mods. It might need a little grinding of the case saver and the swingarm slider may need a little notch for it to fit. Before I got my SM wheelset I was running 14/44 and it worked pretty good for dirt all the way to paved roads that weren't open highways or freeway. Otherwise, it would get too buzzy for me above 55 mph.

The case saver does need to be ground slightly (about 1/8") to fit. Super easy to do with a drill press and a large grinding wheel. It you force teh sprocket on, it will 'cut' the swingarm rubber slider to fit.

It you force teh sprocket on, it will 'cut' the swingarm rubber slider to fit.

The 16 tooth is the way to go. If you do go with a smaller rear instead,you may have to shorten the (endless/no master link) chain.

I had to trim the plastic swingarm guard for the 16 tooth to clear it. I marked the area needing clearance,removed the guard,and used tin snip pliers to cut the area out.

16/47 is roughly the same as 15/44... which is stock S gearing.

even the 15" sprocket needed the cover trimmed on my e... but it's an easy mod, & better than buying one 'made' for the bigger sprocket.

Does the 16" sprocket fit with the stock chain with the 47 rear?

My 15/47 has been a good all purpose combo. But my rear sprocket is starting to get some wear, so i've been thinking of getting some new chain & sprockets. I don't want to have to change out the front sprocket for different conditions.. just want a 'one size fits all' solution. If a 16 front wouldn't be too tall in first, i might try that. With the 15, i can go pretty slow in 1st, lumbering along at low rpm's, then just twist the throttle to go. I'd be a little concerned that the 16 might lose that low end pull. But some people think the 15 is too tall for technical riding.. just have to try it, i guess.

If the stock chain would fit, there would only be the price of the 16 tooth front sprocket. Might be worth a try.

the sprockets arent measured by inches, rather by how many teeth they have. And a 16/47 will fit with your stock chain.

Just a small tip from my personal experience. Toss the case save in the tool box. I have had chains slip and bunch up against the case saver, actually breaking the case at the mounts for the "saver".

Just a small tip from my personal experience. Toss the case save in the tool box.

I gotta think that advice is a bit controversial, although I don't recall seeing any threads on here about it. Seems almost like the small percentage of people that don't wear seatbelts because they heard someone was actually saved in a car accident because they didn't wear their seatbelt.

I run 14/44 up to 14/49 on the same stock length chain. For me its simple to switch out the rear sprockets. I find 14/44 to be a good road set up.

I gotta think that advice is a bit controversial, although I don't recall seeing any threads on here about it. Seems almost like the small percentage of people that don't wear seatbelts because they heard someone was actually saved in a car accident because they didn't wear their seatbelt.

Thus the personal experience, but I have heard quite a few people have the same problem.

The DR-Z cases are pretty fragile for engine cases. If the chain breaks, it will likely trash something expensive regardless if the case saver is installed or not.

Just have to inspect your chain and not take chances with it.

The DR-Z cases are pretty fragile for engine cases. If the chain breaks, it will likely trash something expensive regardless if the case saver is installed or not.

Just have to inspect your chain and not take chances with it.

Amen to that! Oh, and your sprockets! A few missing teeth is what caused mine to slip.

I've been astounded at the amount of abuse my front sprockets have had put on them. Seems like everytime I look the teeth are bent and I have to replace them.

I run 15/48 which is like a 3.20 final drive. 14/47 is a 3.36 final drive. I ve run them both i know 14/47 is great on the trail but tachs out on the street around 65 mph. 15/48 I have found to work out great.

I run 15/48 which is like a 3.20 final drive. 14/47 is a 3.36 final drive. I ve run them both i know 14/47 is great on the trail but tachs out on the street around 65 mph. 15/48 I have found to work out great.

Unless you hit 5th gear a lot on the trails, try 13/48. Is awesome for tight stuff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now