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Ready to Begin the Mods

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I intended to leave the bike stock, as it has 14300 km on it I decided to order the valve adjust kit from Jesse. Ended up ordering the Dyno Jet Kit too. :thumbsup: I'm going to grind the lip out of the exhaust header while I'm at it... If anyone has advice on what not to do, or how to do it easier when I get the kit I'd appreciate it. Oh, and any suggestions on an oil filter? got one at the dealership for $5.95 (Canadian) and changed it while I put in the Rotella T fully Synthetic. Does the Fully Syn come in anything other that 0w40? Still kinda cool here so I wasn't too worried about the viscosity.

Thanks Guys, :thumbsup:

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I intended to leave the bike stock, as it has 14300 km on it I decided to order the valve adjust kit from Jesse. Ended up ordering the Dyno Jet Kit too. :confused: I'm going to grind the lip out of the exhaust header while I'm at it... If anyone has advice on what not to do, or how to do it easier when I get the kit I'd appreciate it. Oh, and any suggestions on an oil filter? got one at the dealership for $5.95 (Canadian) and changed it while I put in the Rotella T fully Synthetic. Does the Fully Syn come in anything other that 0w40? Still kinda cool here so I wasn't too worried about the viscosity.

Thanks Guys, :thumbsup:

If your DR650 is a 96 or higher you have to go stage 2 with the DJ kit. If you follow the kit directions you'll be removing the air box lid and the noise will drive you batty. Keep the lid on and do the air box mod!

When grinding the header weld don't grind into the pipe wall ID. And be sure not to use any grinding stone or burr with a sharp edge on the front. You don't want to leave gouges in the tubing or you can end up with a cracked header. Better to err on the leave a bit too much side than take out a bit too much. :thumbsup:

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And be careful when taking your header bolts out. I broke one off last year, then broke an easy out in it. Cost me $400 for a machinist to get that mess out of there. I could have had a FCR for that!! AARGH!!

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And be careful when taking your header bolts out. I broke one off last year, then broke an easy out in it. Cost me $400 for a machinist to get that mess out of there. I could have had a FCR for that!! AARGH!!

Yikes! A flange bolt broke off in the head? That sucks. :thumbsup:

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I intended to leave the bike stock, as it has 14300 km on it I decided to order the valve adjust kit from Jesse. Ended up ordering the Dyno Jet Kit too. :thumbsup: I'm going to grind the lip out of the exhaust header while I'm at it... If anyone has advice on what not to do, or how to do it easier when I get the kit I'd appreciate it. Oh, and any suggestions on an oil filter? got one at the dealership for $5.95 (Canadian) and changed it while I put in the Rotella T fully Synthetic. Does the Fully Syn come in anything other that 0w40? Still kinda cool here so I wasn't too worried about the viscosity.

Thanks Guys, :thumbsup:

One thing I can suggest is you may want to have replacement screws onhand for the Carb Bowl and top. I had to take mine out with a pair of vise grips cause the phillips head stripped out. I don't know if they loc-tite those things in or what but they are in there. Also if you are doing the DJ kit ya might want to do a snorkelectomy and/or air box mod. made a world of difference on mine!! :>

Good Luck and have fun

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One thing I can suggest is you may want to have replacement screws onhand for the Carb Bowl and top. I had to take mine out with a pair of vise grips cause the phillips head stripped out. I don't know if they loc-tite those things in or what but they are in there. Also if you are doing the DJ kit ya might want to do a snorkelectomy and/or air box mod. made a world of difference on mine!! :>

Good Luck and have fun

Jesse @ Keintech has the good screws....

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Thanks for the information guys, I did at Jesse's suggestion also order the fuel bowl screws. Got the pipe off with no issues, no broken bolts. Sorry to hear about that. Going to grind it tomorrow and hopefully the little package from Jesse will arrive before the weekend. I had pulled the snorkel and really didn't want to cut the air box, but I was going to leave it stock too...So much for that idea.

Thanks again for the advice Guys :thumbsup:

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Try not to mess up the head on the carb screws. On mine it was impossible to take them out with a normal screwdriver but only took 2 mins when I let a friend work his magic with an impact driver.

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Try not to mess up the head on the carb screws. On mine it was impossible to take them out with a normal screwdriver but only took 2 mins when I let a friend work his magic with an impact driver.

The most important thing is to have a non mangled #2 point phillips heads screwdriver and to apply plenty of down pressure on the back of the screwdriver by supporting the bottom of the carb while pushing in towards the screw. They will come out with a nice snap. I still have my original top screws in my BST after all the jetting and they look fine. I did however replace the float bowl screws with a pair from Jesse. :thumbsup:

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Impact driver here for the float bowl screw before than got to jacked upped,replaced with allen heads.Get rid of the upper chain roller and replace bolt with set screw.

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