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KLX450R FAQ (new jetting, AIS, battery, etc.)

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Exactly...and I'd rather spend the money on my KLX than my wife!!!

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Exactly...and I'd rather spend the money on my KLX than my wife!!!

Heard that. :smirk::cheers::ride: I couldn't have said that better myself. :smirk:

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OK so I installed the JD kit yesterday. Used the 165 main jet (for sea level to 4000). I turned the fuel screw out 1 and 1/8 turns. It was hard to get it to idle. After playing with the idle screw for a bit it still didn't idle that great. Sounds like everyone is turning the feul screw out at least 2 turns going to try that. After riding for a minute, when i came to a stop it would idle high. Real high. If I let the clutch out it will slow down again. It has done this since i bought it, was hoping the jet kit would help. Why is this happening? What do I do to fix it?

Not sure what needs to be done for the air box mod. Some one said there would be instructions with the jet kit but there was none.

AIS block off kit...... couldn't find the F2 link or anything F2 in the parts store for that matter. I have a feeling this will help with some of my problems.

Any help would be great.

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I do know there are some post regaurding the high idle. Mine does it also. I beleve it has something to do with the electronic neutral switch. I have been told this is normal and has something to do with keeping the bike from stalling at low speed. After jetting mine it seems to not be as noticalbe, but it is still there.

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confirm your pilot circuit...i went down a size on my pilot and it got rid of the hanging idle right away.

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confirm your pilot circuit...i went down a size on my pilot and it got rid of the hanging idle right away.

I don't understand how the pilot circuit would cure that. My understanding is when the bike is in gear the timing advances to increase the idle. However jetting the bike correctly will smooth the idle out when it is in gear or in neutral. :banana:

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OK so I installed the JD kit yesterday. Used the 165 main jet (for sea level to 4000). I turned the fuel screw out 1 and 1/8 turns. It was hard to get it to idle. After playing with the idle screw for a bit it still didn't idle that great. Sounds like everyone is turning the feul screw out at least 2 turns going to try that. After riding for a minute, when i came to a stop it would idle high. Real high. If I let the clutch out it will slow down again. It has done this since i bought it, was hoping the jet kit would help. Why is this happening? What do I do to fix it?

Not sure what needs to be done for the air box mod. Some one said there would be instructions with the jet kit but there was none.

AIS block off kit...... couldn't find the F2 link or anything F2 in the parts store for that matter. I have a feeling this will help with some of my problems.

Any help would be great.

Go to Applied Racing for the Airbox & AIS Mod Kits

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Wow it's a whole new bike!!! Installed ais block of kit and Air box vent kit from applied racing. It idles, it starts easier, and I don't have that hanging idle. I can't wait to go riding and see what kind of power increase there is.

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More help for newbie...

How do you access the rear allen bolt on the carburetor top plate??? I am installing a JD Jet kit, loosened the front and rear clamps, but still cant rotate the carb. Am I missing something?

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Did you unscrew the hot start cable? That would hang it up from rotating. I prefer taking the carb off the bike. More work but I can check everything out good while I'm doing it.

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I have removed everything as listed by the OP, and can wiggle the carb, but I cannot get enough access to the rear top screw, or the bowl screws, for that matter. I have removed the top shock bolt, and the bottom subframe bolts, but I can't see where that would help.

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It is possible...but as stated in other threads...it's worth the extra 15mins to remove the carb and to avoid all the grief that can occur trying to shortcut it. I can be in, re-jet, and out in an hour going the long way.

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I found out the mudflap on the bottom of the airbox was not letting the rear subframe rotate all the way up. I removed all the AIS stuff, I'm going to fabricate a plug for the head.

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I'm definitely a fan of removing the shock and flipping the subframe up. Makes access a TON easier. I really don't see how people do it any other way without having Really small hands.

:thumbsup:

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I'm definitely a fan of removing the shock and flipping the subframe up. Makes access a TON easier. I really don't see how people do it any other way without having Really small hands.

:thumbsup:

+1:thumbsup:

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could someone please take some pictures of the airbox mods and post them, I have heard of a few different ways to mod the box. If you remove the top will this increase the chance of flooding the motor out while riding in the rain. Thanks

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could someone please take some pictures of the airbox mods and post them, I have heard of a few different ways to mod the box. If you remove the top will this increase the chance of flooding the motor out while riding in the rain. Thanks

Unless you ride without a seat and it happens to rain buckets of water...there is no way you could "flood" the bike. All you are doing is removing the restrictive snorkel and allowing more ir into the box. There are 4 plastic rivets holding it in place. I removed this and the clear plastic shroud...but left the black foam under the seatpan because i am running a guts tall seat and there is a larger gap around the seatpan and it gets plenty of air. I don't think there is any reason to drill out holes in the box etc...the snorkel removal and the sh!tty seal at the airbox door provide more air than the motor could require.:thumbsup:

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UFO Plastics for KLX

This is from http://www.ufoplasticusa.com and notes are from phone call inquiry to 815-756-9400. Email was never answered. No kits available, but put discount code "Kit" at checkout and you'll get 15% off, effectively giving you the kit price. OEM comparo from Motosport. You can google the p/n's and find them else where, maybe cheaper.

I asked about flourescent green as I remember a euro KX250F being available in that color one year. Always liked the color. He said they were getting away from that and it wasn't available for the KLX although I thought I saw it while looking on UFO's Italian site, in English of course.

Fork Sliders OEM $37.92 ea.

Black $39.99 KA03778-001

White $39.99 KA03778-280

Note: Price is for pair and they're KX, no speedo guide.

Front Fender OEM $56.43

Black $27.99 KA03753-001

Green $27.99 KA03753-026

White $27.99 KA03753-047

Radiator Shrouds OEM $51.17 ea.

Black $56.99 KA03789-001

Green $56.99 KA03789-026

Note: Price is for pair and they're either all black or all green

Rear Fender w/ LED light OEM 47.50

Black $72.99 KA03791-001

Green $72.99 KA03791-026

Note: The UFO is this one- http://www.mdracingproducts.co.uk/store/media/img/products/honda-cr0004-current-front-fender6415-11-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1/11096/XL.jpg The fender is molded the same w/o the hole for the actual OEM tail light. I kinda like the UFO under fender w/ the light better than the Baja I have.

Side Panels OEM $45.85 ea.

Black $54.99 KA03790-001

White $54.99 KA03790-047

Note: Price is for pair and the airbox door isn't included.

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