two stroke dual sport?

My brother in-law is selling his 02 yz250 and I dont need it because I have an 06 yz250. However, I was thinking about buying it because I already have 800$ in it(the money he borrowed to buy it) so wouldnt have to give him that much more. The other reason is that I was thinking of putting on one of those 285 kits (i cant remember what magazine I saw that in but it looked like a cool deal) putting on taller gearing and making it road legal with lights and what not. Where I live hear in benson there is no emmisions to deal with so the smoke isnt an issue.

Does this sound like a good idea, and if so does any one know the best parts to do it with? Do I need a bigger stator for the lights? Is it more trouble than its worth? Has anyone done it before?

Some help making my mind up on this would be appreciated, since my wifes gonna kill me if I buy another toy, and I want to know if its worth the heat.

I have a street licensed (plated) YZ250 in Washington state. You MUST buy the E-line stator and lighting coil if you want lights. That alone is $459 which doesn't include the lights. Moose and electrosport did not work for me despite many attempts.:thumbsup:

A road legal YZ250 is cool but don't expect to ride it often or far as you'll need to do many engine teardowns. Its not like the YZ isn't reliable it just wasn't made to be held at one constant RPM and easily log 10,000 miles without engine service.

I gave up on getting my YZ street legal. I bought an XT225 and now I'm set with both!!!!

I'm not looking for super long cross country rides, but here in southern az, I could ride so many trails that I wouldnt even have to load up my bike for, just gear up and go ride is what i'm looking for.

No doubt. As long as its for recreation, it should do well (not used daily). However, if you commute with it 5x per week, that's where you may have trouble if the commute is of average length.

I have a street legal '03 250 that I ride to work whenever I don't have to take the kids to school. It saves $ on gas and I always show up with a grin on my mug (I'm lucky my commute doesn't require any freeway miles.) The bike is setup with a WR gearbox and an E-line coil which to me are the two critical items for a street-happy YZ. See my garage for a photo.

I dual sported my KDX220 in Michigan, then brought it out to AZ. Really all you need to get a street plate is your word that it has the street legal bits (headlight, tail light/brake light, mirror, horn). I know a couple of people that have absolutely bare bones dirt bikes with a street plate, it's just your problem if you get nabbed. All of AZ dropped motorcycle emissions about 2 years ago right when I got out here.

You will need a bigger stator, and Baja Designs makes a decent kit, although you can save some $$$ pieceing things together yourself. My KDX wasn't much fun covering any sort of distance on the road. Even though it topped out at 82 mph it felt very revvy at 55 mph. For short stints in town and riding trails you otherwise couldn't, it ruled! I still think about plating the YZ....

can it be done, sure. is it nice to be able to ride to your trails, you bet. is it a good street bike, hell no.

i've got a plate on my '05 and get it on the road at times (getting from trail to trail). even with the wr gears, i want off after about five miles. the moose stator does work but is a pain in the a**. it is not a plug and play unit. besides, it doesn't put out much juice even when you get it to work.

IMO save your money. find a good used WR if you plan on any long trips between trails.

Thanks for the comments everyone, I think I'll just look into a wr. or ktm's new dual sport. Do you know if the wr has the same high $ maint. as the 450 4 strokes?

I have an 02, set up in the same manner as mentioned on the other posts. Basically, it's the most nimble, lightweight dual sport you can possible have in the dirt, but it absolutely stinks in any situation where you have to cruise at speed for longer than 5 minutes. The motor is only designed to accelerate, not cruise. I've found that if I do cruise on the highway the motor will sieze temporarily. This happened to me twice and I had to let the engine cool down, and everything was OK. This condition results from the engine spinning at high rpms without being on the gas, hence no lubrication for the top and bottom end. I've heard that if you have to cruise at high speeds for any length of time, hold the gas as wide open as possible, and tap the kill switch every minute or so with the throttle open—an old KX500 desert racer trick.

Or, just get yourself 4 stroke with forced lubrication. You live in Arizona, so you can plate everything. If I had that freedom I would dual-sport a YZ 450 F—bullet-proof engine, motor comes jetted perfectly and uncorked stock (unlike wr) stable handling, lightweight. Forget the WR, unless you must have electric start and don't care about the extra weight. Either the WR or YZ will require less valve adjustments and rebuilds than any other 4 stroke. Ask any of the owners on TT or those in the know. The yamaha 4 stroke is by far the most reliable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By neonmarine
      Hey guys, 
      I've used this forum as a "guest" for awhile now and I thought I'd share my build now that it's all coming together.  The primary purpose of this project is to help me train for roadracing my 2009 R1 at lower speeds as well as giving me a cheap alternative to racing the big bike. 
      Here's what she looked like when I picked it up from a local shop.  Paid $800 cash for the bike as you see it with 17' rims, FMF pipe, EBC 250mm front rotor and clip on handle bars.

      Fits PERFECT!

      Shake down run at the Herrin Compound last summer:

      As she sits today:

    • By 125 yamaha guy
      i bought my yz125 from a dealer and they said that the clutch was broken so i bought it and it worked fine it would run move and everything and then it started to act up and now only first gear works barely though. when you put it in first it acts like its bogging down but its not and when you go into gears 2-5 it wont move i dont know whats wrong with it im assuming the clutch is slipping or something if you know please leave me a comment 
    • By Randomneewb
      Hey guys, I have a 2003 cr125 I bought a couple weeks ago and I'm having a problem with it. The spark plugs die every about 15 minutes, with hotter plugs it will last about 45 minutes. I herd that if the timing is off it can over heat the plugs and burn out the the resistor. Is there any truth to that? The reason I thinks it's not fouling is because when the plug dies it gives no spark no matter how much you clean it, And it shorts out. 
    • By fiat2nv
      Hi all, First post here. I need some help.
      Ive just bought an 05 yz 125 for a good price but it needs some work. One of the forks has some pretty severe pitting of the chrome on the stanchion towards the bottom near the brake caliper mount.
      Ive found a pair of good condition forks from an 04 yz250 for a very good price, from the research ive done its seems that both the 04 & 05 forks are 48mm but are different, with the 05 fork regarded as being better than the 04, but not as good as the 06 + sss forks.
      Im looking for the cheapest way to get me riding, Will I be able to make the 04 forks work with my 05 triple clamps, brakes, wheel, axle, spacers etc? If not does anyone know what hardware id need to make it work?
      Finally, as a last resort, does anyone know if i could swap the stanchion from the 04 fork into my 05 forks?
      Thanks, Andrew
    • By idratherberiding
      I bought a 2006 YZ250, have ridden it 5 times.  It needs some tuning, but I am not sure I'm keeping it so don't want to spend much on it.
      Has fmf gnarly expansion chamber and turbine core silencer.
      I ride about 1000 feet above sea level.
      I'm going to clean the carb and check the jetting.  What is a good jetting for me?  85 main jet?
      Also check the reeds.  Is there a big difference between getting aftermarket reed cage and reeds or just getting a cheap aftermarket set of reeds that fit the stock cage ie.  Boyesen Power Reeds?
      The other things I'm going to do is permatex all the joints in the exhaust system and a compression test.   It was 220psi 5 rides ago so I'm guessing itll be fine.  Its bogging a bit but I'm thinking its carb and definitely exhaust joint related.  
      Let me know if I'm overlooking anything that could make the bike run crisper and more bottom end without throwing much money on parts