Brand New TT FCR seems to be trouble ???

there have been lots of threads of late , people getting the carbs home . putting them on and still having problems tuning them , i was under the impression that it was done all you had to do was put it on and the most part do the idal and off riding you went . so there is a lot of work you have even when ordering it from the TT store ?:thumbsup: but what is going on

well since everybody lives in different areas, elevations, relative humidity, different setups and tempurature, etc etc. everyones jetting will be different. and yes i think tuning an fcr is a pain in the ass as im still tuning mine. i hate it, the bsr was so easy to tune in comparison

well since everybody lives in different areas, elevations, relative humidity, different setups and tempurature, etc etc. everyones jetting will be different.
+ 2 on that.
+ 2 on that.

so before you buy the carb, will it help if you tell them were you live?? elevation ?? kinda sucks $500+ dollars and still have it not running right !

the FCR needs to be tuned correctly to get the most benefit from the $ 500.00 you just spent .

FCR is easier to tune than a BSR. Fairly cut and dry when you do not have to deal with the slide moving on its own. Be methodical, keep good notes.

1) Set pilot jet fuel screw

2) Set Main jet

3) Choose needle and clip position

4) Set AP

Fuel Screw/Pilot Jet

Fuel screw settings in the 'book' are recommended starting points. Every bike is different, as is the temp and altitude. Set the screw according to this method.

Gently turn the screw all the way in. Now back it out two turns. Start the bike and fully warm it up, go for a 10 minute ride. Set the idle to speed to 1,500~1,800 RPM as best you can (I know, without a tach this is tough, just set it to were it idles relatively smoothly). Once warmed, slow the idle to the lowest possible speed.

*** When turning the fuel screw, keep an accurate 'count' of the amount you are turning it and record it in case you have to reset it for some reason. Makes life easier when you can just set it from notes Vs. going through the procedure again.***

Turn the screw in until the idle becomes rough or the bike stalls.

if it stalled, open the screw about 1/4 more turn. Restart it and slowly screw it in till you can just perceive a change.

If the screw can be turned all the way in and the bike still idles perfectly and does not stall, then you need to go down a size in pilot jet.

Now very slowly, open the fuel screw till the idle is smooth. Blip the throttle, let the bike return to an idle, wait say ten seconds. Confirm it is the same smooth idle.

If the screw has to be opened more than 3 turns to get a smooth idle, you need to go up a size in pilot jet.

If you find it does not stall with the larger jet but has to be open more than three turns with the smaller pilot jet, put the larger one in and set the fuel screw at 1/2 turn.

If the idle speed increased, adjust the idle speed knob to return the bike to a real slow idle speed. You must then re-visit the fuel screw. Keep doing this till the fuel screw is opened just enough to provide a nice steady idle at the lowest possible RPM. Once this is done, increase the idle speed to the normal one for your bike, typically about 1,500 rpm, but go by the spec in your manual.

Main Jet

Starting with the recommended main, remove the airbox door and go for a ride (bike fully warmed up). Is it better or worse?

If it is better, you need a smaller main.

Go down one size, replace the airbox door, ride. Remove the airbox door and test again. Better or worse? If better, go down a size again. Keep repeating this till the test with the airbox door is worse.

If it was worse with the airbox door removed, tape over 1/3 of your 3X3, test.

If it is worse now with the tape and was worse with the airbox door off, your main is just right. You are done!

If it seems better, you need to go up a size in main jet. Test it again (remove the tape). Replace the tape, test again. If with the tape on it is better, go up another size in main. Keep repeating this till having the tape on is worse than with it off.

To finish up and ensure you are set accurately, retest the bike with the tape off, ride it, then remove the airbox door. Best performance should be with the airbox untapped, airbox door on.

Remember, the main only operates at WOT. Ideally, you want to be in 3rd of 4th gear doing the tests, hitting max revs (just shy of the limiter) for at least 10 seconds to get an accurate representation of the jet status.

Be sure to keep notes of your settings. You may find you need to make a change, say if you're riding in the mountains or down at the beach. Returning home, it is a simple matter of referring to your notes to restore things.

i think if you actually read the threads you will find that is mostly install mistakes.

i think if you actually read the threads you will find that is mostly install mistakes.

i hope so . i am saving up to get one ,

The FCR is a pain in the ASS to tune, but once it is right the performance gain is an improvement over the BSR. The Mikuni was a pleasure to tune in comparison. I have finally got some reasonable mileage out of mine, 125km to reserve. :thumbsup: vanram

The FCR is a pain in the ASS to tune, but once it is right the performance gain is an improvement over the BSR. The Mikuni was a pleasure to tune in comparison. I have finally got some reasonable mileage out of mine, 125km to reserve. :thumbsup: vanram

miles per gallon to me , not a big deal , i want power ,

I just installed my tt fcr and had I not screwed up when I put the slide plate back on when I changed the needle the install was a piece of cake and the jetting is spot on. The bike is super responsive and hauls ass compared to a 3x3 mod and jet kit set up.

the fcr is the easiest and most tuneable carb ever made.

they are actually very simple.

I didn't think I noticed a difference after I installed my FCR-MX. I put the Mikuni back on, and it felt like it was sick. Reinstalled the FCR-MX and it runs perfectly. Maybe i'm just hard-headed. :thumbsup: We rode about 200 miles today. Passing a tractor trailer I saw 96 mph and it was still climbing when I backed off. W/ the Mikuni it would register 93 flat out as hard as it would go. Definitely a difference.

I would definitely listen to Eddy Sisneros , I have followed many of his threads on this subject. I trashed my edelbrock and got the fcr-mx i couldnt be happier. All adjustments were made as Eddy suggested ( sea level ) I am so pleased with the performance the drz now gives. Thanks Eddy:worthy:

Do your research here, jet it per Eddie specs for your mods and altitude, cut an exact 3X3, Keintech fuel screw and O-ring mod, follow directions for the information you gather, and it will work perfectly. Mine ran spot on but I spent a lot of time doing research and double checking everything. Eddie absolutely nailed the jetting for me and I haven't touched it since the inital setup other than turning the idle up slightly....runs like a new bike with a major power increase and I don't believe it was a fluke.

I thought mine was broken but I also did the following on install:

1. Did no tighten down the clamps enough.

2. Put the clip on the wrong position.

3. installed cables backwards (that had nothing to do with the instrucitons being wrong, just me being a jackass)

I also experimented with a Flow Commander (what a piece of expensive crap that was), and I put my Mikuni back on for giggles, very glad I spent the money now!

Eddie is right. I installed and FCR some time ago and was happy but then started having idling problems. Went to Eddie who made some helpful jetting suggestions based on what I told him but i rejetted about three or four times and wasn't happy. Finally i found a tear in the vaccum tube to the petcock. I probably tore it when I installed my IMS tank. I spent so much time on the jetting and it was something simple. I believe Eddie told me to check everything but i missed it. Seams like I always miss the simple things.


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