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320mm rotor - Increasing the bite area on stock calipers.

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After I did it... I tested it on the roads for a week and then on the track.

Now that it has proven to be a workable modification.... I dare to share it with you guys.

320mm Braking rotor (STX55D).

Braking relocator.

OEM caliper, OEM brake pads.

Only 7/8 inch of swept area.

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With modified brake pads... 1/4 inch more bite.

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After using modified brake pads.

IMG_1645.jpg

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And this is how I did it.....

First get a pair of Galfer FD108G1370 brake pads.

OEM sized brake pads by EBC are red in colour.

Modified brake pads are brown in colour after use.

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Had to cut a notch on the pad nearer the pistons side to accomodate the flange of the relocator. Pad shown mounted.

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Inner pad shown mounted.

IMG_1654.jpg

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Tools needed...

A sharp pointed marker pen for tracing the outline of the OEM pads onto the Galfer brake pads.

A hacksaw and cross cut file for finishing work.

NOTE: The Galfer brake pads are slightly thicker than the OEM pads. Need to do a bit of filing (about a sixteenth of an inch from each pad) to get it to fit in the caliper. If you have a mounted grinder... it would be faster. I don't... so I had to go the laborious way.

By the way.. I don't have a garage... so all this was done in the apartment complex carpark. Time taken was about 2 hours.

This could be your project for this weekend. Have fun!!! :ride:

PS - this modification was track tested at Tucson last weekend and the braking is definitely much better. :thumbsup:

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PS - this modification was track tested at Tucson last weekend and the braking is definitely much better. :thumbsup:

Until the pads wear unevenly because they are not fully supported, or they fall out :mad:

The only way to do this safely is to make a new re-locator bracket.

Neil. :ride::rant::lol:

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Until the pads wear unevenly because they are not fully supported, or they fall out :lol:

The only way to do this safely is to make a new re-locator bracket.

Neil. :thumbsup::ride::rant:

If the rider is one who does not do periodical inspections on his brakes for wear prior to riding or does not believe in fitting in the brake pin, this modification is strongly NOT recommended.

..... it is mechanically impossible for the brake pads to fall out if the brake pin is inserted into the eyehole of the brake pad and the other end is cut correctly to fit in the recess of the caliper unless the caliper splits into half.

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If the rider is one who does not do periodical inspections on his brakes for wear prior to riding or does not believe in fitting in the brake pin, this modification is strongly NOT recommended.

.....

This mod is not recommended at all.

It is unsafe, and it will bite you, or the poor fool you are following.

Neil. :thumbsup::ride::rant:

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So did anyone come out with a better bracket for the SM? I remember there was talk of machining our own. Otherwise, it was left at the Brembo setup or the QTM relocation setup w/Brembo for 320mm.

I know it's just for looks, but I'm going to go with the 310 from Braking just to not have the issues.

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This mod is not recommended at all.

It is unsafe, and it will bite you, or the poor fool you are following.

Neil. :thumbsup::ride::rant:

You keep saying no, its not recommended.

I hear you... but I don't understand the technical rationale behind the negativity. Unless you know something that I don't, please enlightem us before someone follows my modification and kills himself.

And if the technical facts support your reason for not recommending this modification to the brake pads, I will ask the mods to remove this thread so that no one will get hurt.

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So did anyone come out with a better bracket for the SM? I remember there was talk of machining our own. Otherwise, it was left at the Brembo setup or the QTM relocation setup w/Brembo for 320mm.

I know it's just for looks, but I'm going to go with the 310 from Braking just to not have the issues.

I have actually ordered the Brembo 4 pot 4 pad caliper, relocator for a 320mm rotor, Goodridge SS brakeline, 13mm master cylinder with a shorty lever from QTM already.

Should be able to get my hands on them mid of next week.

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You keep saying no, its not recommended.

I hear you... but I don't understand the technical rationale behind the negativity.

A calliper is designed to withstand the forces that are generated by the calliper piston, in conjunction with the stock master cylinder.

By moving the points of contact between the calliper and pads outwards, you are exerting a force at an angle the calliper was not designed to handle.

The calliper is now more likely to try and open out, as the angle of the leverage has moved.

Before the mod the pressure was mostly contained within the solid body part of the calliper, now it is only on the tips of the three projections.

If you think this small change is unimportant try this, using a lever and a solid block as a pivot point try and lift the front of your car or truck up.

Start with a 8 foot bar, and have the block 3 feet from the car, can't lift it up can you.

Now try with the block 1 foot from the car, you will find it fairly easy now.

Neil. :thumbsup::ride::rant:

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EDDIE????? What is your opinion on this mod?? SAFE or unsafe??

chances are it will be fine,but i would never do it.

its huge uneeded risk.

if you really need more contact you need a different caliper any way.

modifying brake pads in this matter is just asking for trouble.

as with any thing use common sense with what you see on the internet.

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i waited for a long time for someone to donate (temporarily) their setup so i can design/build a better bracket.

needless to say......some have turned to modifying pads instead.

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A calliper is designed to withstand the forces that are generated by the calliper piston, in conjunction with the stock master cylinder.

By moving the points of contact between the calliper and pads outwards, you are exerting a force at an angle the calliper was not designed to handle.

The calliper is now more likely to try and open out, as the angle of the leverage has moved.

Before the mod the pressure was mostly contained within the solid body part of the calliper, now it is only on the tips of the three projections.

If you think this small change is unimportant try this, using a lever and a solid block as a pivot point try and lift the front of your car or truck up.

Start with a 8 foot bar, and have the block 3 feet from the car, can't lift it up can you.

Now try with the block 1 foot from the car, you will find it fairly easy now.

Neil. :thumbsup::ride::rant:

If the size of the brake pad has been increased by 100%... I would worry about the force of the braking 'opening up the caliper' if the master cylinder or caliper pistons have been increased in size also.

Force = Pressure X Area.

It would be more dangerous to use an aftermarket master master cylinder with the stock caliper simply because the aftermarket master cylinder with the same amount of brake lever pressure can transmit a greater force to the brake due to its bigger actuating piston.

Using a bigger brake pad only serves to increase the friction area which in turns actually mean that lesser braking force is needed to achieve the same stopping power. This actually means there is a lesser load on the calipers.

Having said all that... here is my disclaimer.

To those who wish to do what I did... you are on your own. I shall not be responsible.

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Hmmm got money to buy marchesini rims and no money to buy a proper brake caliper.......

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nice first post.

trolling is not allowed.

if you look at his other posts you would see he has upgraded to the proper brake.

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If the size of the brake pad has been increased by 100%... I would worry about the force of the braking 'opening up the caliper' if the master cylinder or caliper pistons have been increased in size also.

Force = Pressure X Area.

It is not the force exerted that is in question, it is the point that which it is it is exerted at, or the 'fulcrum' that has changed.

Neil. :eek::p:applause:

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