Help with frozen spokes???

Ok, I went to tighten some loose spokes on the rear of my '99 cr125. The spokes are straight into the hub. It would seem that every spoke is frozen in the nut side and just spins in the hub. Even vise grips wont hold it tight enough to break it free, just spins the spoke and walks it out of the grips. Am I just doomed to have to replace all of them? Any idea on the best rusty bolt lube to use to try to get them freed up? WD didn't seem to touch it. I dread the thought of having to remove the whole rim and tire and then cutting them out and replacing them.:thumbsup:

PB Baster broke mine loose. With the vise grips holding the spokes.

use a propane torch on the spoke nipple to warm it up, then "shock" it with penetrant oil while its hot, it should come loose...

you are lucky however, the 99 should still have steel spoke nipples, its the later years when they switched to aluminum spoke nipples that they REALLY siezed

+1 on the PB Blaster.

Had a 96 250 with the same problem.ended up replacing the spokes and rims,It was so bad the spokes were loose for sometime and cracked the rim at the nipples. It was about 500 bucks total for excel setup.

A set of spokes is 22.99 and the nipples are 20.99 in dennis kirk.

I know this is old. Just posting to cover anyone searching on a cure as I just went through this again on a couple of used bikes.

Stuck, frozen, seized spokes and spoke nipples. Try soaking with penetrating oil. Kroil or SiliKroil works the best forme. Sometimes it is kind of amazing. I used to use Mouse Milk. If that doesn't work you need to cut the spoke off with a cut off wheel and replace.

You could prevent this by putting penetrating oil on at each wash, adjusting the spokes or at least turning each nipple at least twice a month, etc. Eventually they will freeze (seize).

If you put anti-seize compound on the threads when you install a new spoke this will never happen. It doesn't make them come loose either, so don't worry about that BS. You shouldn't depend on corrosion and seizure to keep fasteners tight!

When I work on a new or used bike, the first time I have the tire off, or when replacing a spoke, I remove all the nipples, one at a time, and coat the threads with anti-seize compound. Also I put it on axle bolts, swing arm bolts, and all the long pivot bolts.

It really pisses me off when I have to beat out a shaft that is corroded in where someone didn't at least grease it. Anti-seize compound seems to last forever on the threads and it is nothing short of amazing. Grease doesn't hold up as well. Anti-seize has metal partials in it that prevent seizing even when the grease base is burned or washed away. Anti-seize compound comes for various applications. For most bike work the silver Permatex is fine.

I am an aircraft and bike mechanic. I have the philosophy that all bolts and nuts should either have anti seize compound or Loctite on them. There are only a few exceptions. Both prevent corrosion and seizing.


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By ashfmxuk
      So Been rebuilding my bike and the rubber mallet just "wouldn't cut it"!!!!
      I had to pry managed to sand down it all looked flat but this seems a bit gappy.

      This is only on the outer edge but I can help worry this is going to leak or get shit into the engine.
      Any help or advice would be awesome thanks

    • By Kaito Sutton
      Hey guys, so cant find much online about cr 250r enduro conversions (nothing recent) so im wondering if it is an option or not. I currently have a crf 250x 2009 and a XR 650r. If i want a 2 stroke enduro but want to stick with the honda line up, is a 2007 or 2005 honda cr 250r a good option. and if so what would need to be done to it to get it up to spec for trail and enduro riding. Thanks very much
    • By dirtbikesrule
      If you own a 2 stroke dirtbike,please reply once. Im just wondering how many people on this site have them.
    • By skipn8r
      Note: This specifically applies to the '92 - '01 CR250 engine, but it should be adaptable to any 2-stroke. The basic idea is to pull the carb and exhaust, plug one and pressurize the engine through the other to look for leaks.
      It's very important to pressure test a 2-stroke after it's assembled. The reason is that a 2-stroke gets it's lube through the pre-mix. An air leak means your engine can run lean. Lean means too little fuel. Too little fuel means too little lube. Too little lube means death to your engine. So here we go.
      First, you need to pull the seat, tank, shock, carb and pipe. Everything you need (other than a tire pump) is shown below.

      The assembly below is basically a 1-3/4" PVC plug (same OD as the intake pipe ID) that is transitioned down to a 0-15 psi gauge, a shut-off valve and a Schrader valve (to connect a tire pump). The 1-3/4" PVC plug is a tight fit in the intake pipe, but it'll fit with enough persuasion. I used yellow heavy duty pipe tape (made for gas systems) to put everything together. I don't have all the technical names for everything, but if you take the pictures to a hardware store, they should be able to help you piece it together.

      The item below is an adjustable rubber freeze plug. They are available at automotive parts stores in various sizes, but the closest one I could make work was a 1-3/4" version. You tighten the nut which squeezes two metal plates together which squeezes and expands the rubber piece between the plates. You have to tighten it a lot, but it makes a good seal in the exhaust port.

      Before you install everything, make sure that the piston is at BDC (so that all the ports are open), the spark plug is installed and all other components are properly tightened. Below, you can see the gauge/valve assembly installed in the intake pipe. Make sure to tighten your intake pipe hose clamp tightly as the pressure will tend to push the assembly out.

      Below, you can see the freeze plug installed in the exhaust port.

      Once you have everything installed as shown, use a tire pump to pressurize the engine to 6 - 8 psi, then close the valve and watch the gauge for any pressure drop over a 5 - 10 minute period. A well sealed engine will hold pressure with no observable pressure drop for 10 minutes easily.
      One common "leak" in a healthy '92 - '01 CR250 engine (and probably other types) is through the powervalve linkage. It probably doesn't affect performance, but it'll sure throw your leak measurements off. To avoid leaks, make sure the powervalve linkage is correctly lubed (per the Service Manual) with grease and Moly 60 Paste during assembly.
      If your engine holds pressure with no observable drop for 10 minutes, you're good to go. If the pressure drops 2 - 3 psi or more over 10 minutes, spray soapy water all around the pressure test parts first to check for leaks there. If you find none on the test setup, start spraying the soapy water around the base gasket, head gasket, center gasket etc. Any pressure drop of less than 2 psi over 10 minutes is your call, but I'd definitely fix it.
      I've had really good results by using Permatex Copper Gasket Sealant on the base gasket, PV cover gasket and reed cage gasket. I don't use anything on the head gasket.
    • By ulmanb
      What value would you say a 1986 cr250 with a freshly plated cylinder and new top end, newer tires, newer chain & sprockets, in overall very good condition?
      I picked up the bike (cheap) a month or so ago in need of cylinder replating & top end. Apparently the headgasket blew internally scouring the cylinder. The crank feels good and the bike is very clean/good condition.
      I havent put the bike together yet (too busy to ship cylinder and order parts), but figure I would have a total of $600 (including bike cost) to get it into good running cond.
      A friend wants to buy it as-is for his 15 yr old 200# kid. What value wouldyou put on it in As-is condition vs with a fresh engine?