Help with frozen spokes???

Ok, I went to tighten some loose spokes on the rear of my '99 cr125. The spokes are straight into the hub. It would seem that every spoke is frozen in the nut side and just spins in the hub. Even vise grips wont hold it tight enough to break it free, just spins the spoke and walks it out of the grips. Am I just doomed to have to replace all of them? Any idea on the best rusty bolt lube to use to try to get them freed up? WD didn't seem to touch it. I dread the thought of having to remove the whole rim and tire and then cutting them out and replacing them.:thumbsup:

PB Baster broke mine loose. With the vise grips holding the spokes.

use a propane torch on the spoke nipple to warm it up, then "shock" it with penetrant oil while its hot, it should come loose...

you are lucky however, the 99 should still have steel spoke nipples, its the later years when they switched to aluminum spoke nipples that they REALLY siezed

+1 on the PB Blaster.

Had a 96 250 with the same problem.ended up replacing the spokes and rims,It was so bad the spokes were loose for sometime and cracked the rim at the nipples. It was about 500 bucks total for excel setup.

A set of spokes is 22.99 and the nipples are 20.99 in dennis kirk.

I know this is old. Just posting to cover anyone searching on a cure as I just went through this again on a couple of used bikes.

Stuck, frozen, seized spokes and spoke nipples. Try soaking with penetrating oil. Kroil or SiliKroil works the best forme. Sometimes it is kind of amazing. I used to use Mouse Milk. If that doesn't work you need to cut the spoke off with a cut off wheel and replace.

You could prevent this by putting penetrating oil on at each wash, adjusting the spokes or at least turning each nipple at least twice a month, etc. Eventually they will freeze (seize).

If you put anti-seize compound on the threads when you install a new spoke this will never happen. It doesn't make them come loose either, so don't worry about that BS. You shouldn't depend on corrosion and seizure to keep fasteners tight!

When I work on a new or used bike, the first time I have the tire off, or when replacing a spoke, I remove all the nipples, one at a time, and coat the threads with anti-seize compound. Also I put it on axle bolts, swing arm bolts, and all the long pivot bolts.

It really pisses me off when I have to beat out a shaft that is corroded in where someone didn't at least grease it. Anti-seize compound seems to last forever on the threads and it is nothing short of amazing. Grease doesn't hold up as well. Anti-seize has metal partials in it that prevent seizing even when the grease base is burned or washed away. Anti-seize compound comes for various applications. For most bike work the silver Permatex is fine.

I am an aircraft and bike mechanic. I have the philosophy that all bolts and nuts should either have anti seize compound or Loctite on them. There are only a few exceptions. Both prevent corrosion and seizing.


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now