wheel slip

(06 YZ450) I have had problems with the rear tire slipping on the rim, sometimes to the point of ripping out the valve stem. I have the stock rim and also an aftermarket wheel and it occurs on both.

So that makes me think its something I am doing wrong when changing tires. But its the same process I have been doing when the wheel was new and it didn't happen then. I have used new rim locks (aftermarket alloy), verified that the tube is not bunched up somehow, verified correct tire inflation, tried different torques on the wheel lock, different tires and still it happens with increasing regularity.

I did a search and this seemed to happen a lot on some xr hondas when not using the stock rim lock but there is not much (that I can find) on the Yamaha side. I guess I will go back to the stock rim lock and see if it still happens. Anyone else had issues with this and how to fix? I do NOT want to go to two rim locks :thumbsup: PITA that would be to change a tire

If the tire moves on the rim after it is fully tightened, then either the rimlock is bent or (probably) the wrong size. But a 450 in the dirt, esp. if you run low pressure in the tire, needs two locks.

Quite often it is not the tire actually spinning, but rather the tube "walking" inside the tire. This happens if hte tube sticks to the inside of the tire and as the tire flexes it will walk the tube around to the point where it will actually rip the vvalves stem off and give you a flat.

To see if it yout tire actually spinning, put a mark on the tire with a tire crayon at the rimlock (or some other known location). Go ride and see if the mark moves in comparison to the rim. If it does then maybe you can try a new rim lock, or take a hack saw and cut little shallow groves around the rim to give it more bike on the tire.

If the tire is not spinning and the tube is walking, get a new tube and cover it with babby powder before you put it in. Make sure the tire is clean and put a little babby powder indise that as well. This will allow the tube to slip in the tire. Als, if you are using a nut on the valve stem, do not tighten it to the rim. Spin it on the stem just far enough to get the cap on. This allows the stem to shift a little withouth tearing it off.

Ahh, never thought about this "tube walking" you speak of. I thought about roughing up the rim where the tire bead sits cause it seems that it is very smooth now. As I said it seems to have gotten worse over the life of the rim. I will do the mark on the tire to see which of these is the culprits. I forgot to mention, I do leave the nut loose on the valve stem for the reason mentioned and I also put baby powder on the tube so don't know if that eliminates the tube walking or not but we will see. Thanks for the advice.

WOw I had the exact same thing happen to me yesterday never had it happen before.

Two laps flat tire, went back to put some air in it and the freakin valve stem was spinning.. Weird. After further inspection Valve stem was ripped clear out..

Well, as KJ said, the tubes crawl more at low pressures, and zero is as low as I've ever seen anyone run. :thumbsup:

Well, as KJ said, the tubes crawl more at low pressures, and zero is as low as I've ever seen anyone run. :thumbsup:

Hey I did not mean to run zero air pressure:cry:

So is the torn up tube/valve stem from me not noticing a flat tire soon enough

or did I do something wrong last time a changed the tire?

It's from the flat, no doubt.

ok, went out today at the track and the rim spun like three inches on the tire and still did not go flat (got lucky and I preloaded the stem so it was the opposite way). Took the tire off and in this case it turned out to be the rim lock. It was U shaped so it wasn't pressing on the tire. Now what would cause it to be U shaped? Would over torquing it cause this or landing on it just right..? So I have the other rim on there now so I will see if this one slips..:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Zack Ailing
      hey guys just picked up a new project bike. Its a 2008 Yz450f with a big bore kit and a stroker crank. The total cc of the engine is now 499. It runs on race gas and will be an absolute monster when shes ready to rip. I will continue to make more videos on the bike so stay tuned Link to the video: 
    • By High On Octane
      2005 YZ450F, Athena Big Bore, Power Bomb, Q4.
      Ok.  Last fall after a decently hot day at the track, I noticed coolant leaking from the weep hole on my water pump after pulling into the pits.  Ordered an Athena re-seal kit, put it all back together and didn't really get a chance to ride it.  3 weeks ago, went out to the track, and after about 20 laps, it started leaking again.  Kept filling it with water to get thru the day, never ran anywhere close to dry or empty, jut a cup or 2 low.  Ordered a Hot Rods re-seal kit with bearing and also ordered a new w/p shaft.  Did it all again and got it back together, ran it, and as soon as it got to temp, it was leaking out of the weep hole again.
      So, what the heck am I missing?  I'm totally stumped on this one.  Is something wrong with my case cover?  Do I need to replace the w/p itself?  I'm feeling like I should've just ponied up for the Boysen in the first place, and now it's biting me in the butt.  Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated.  Thanks!
    • By Awheeler25u
      Alright guys, my 04 YZ450f runs fine minus some slight backfires when decelerating (need to adjust fuel screw). The other day when I was done checking my valve clearances I changed the oil and filter and put the bike back on the stand, kicked it a few times without the ignition coil in to get some oil flowing got off and noticed a little drip spot on the ground, it was no bigger than a dime so I thought nothing of it. Started the bike with no issues took it for a quick 10-15 min ride, came back to the garage to find out my whole case was soaked with oil and it started pooling in the low spots on the clutch basket side. I cleaned all the oil off and took it out again for 5 mins to try and see where it was coming from, here are my three possible places but nothing directly leads me to believe it’s any of the three either.
      1. Decompression plug area
      2.  Valve cover gasket leak (not really sure because the amount of oil leaking Looks to be a large amount
      3. Oil tank (bad weld or cracked weld somewhere
      what are you guys thinking?
    • By bofar
      Hey guys. I could really use your help diagnosing an issue that came up riding today. Bike is a 2013 YZ450F. Well maintained and haven't had any issues until now. Both the oil and coolant are new and levels are to spec. 
      After riding for about an hour in the sand dunes, I noticed a grinding going on on the right side of the bottom end (from what I could tell). When I looked to see what was going on my kickstarter was vibrating and grinding really loud. This was a different sound than if you engaged the kickstarter while running. It sounded less "clanky" and more "vibrating/grinding" if that makes sense. Grabbing the kickstarter and moving it didn't help the issue.
      When I noticed it, I shut the bike off and gave it a second. Being a few miles deep into the dunes, I had to get it out of there so I started it back up and it seemed fine- no grinding. I headed back to the car and after a few minutes, it came back so I shut it off again, started it back up and nothing. That process happened one or two more times before I made it back to the truck. Seemed to run fine otherwise. 
      Once I got it back to the truck I started it up and tried to pay more attention to what was going on but it wasn't doing it. I did seem to have more of a metal on metal noise coming from the motor. I started and stopped the bike a few times and after the motor stopped there was a distinct metal clank/grinding noise that happened right after the motor shut of for maybe half a second. This doesn't happen every time. 
      I tried doing some research and have seen things that make me think it could be the spring that connects to the kickstarter, or the kickstarter stopper plate- but really I have no idea.
      Seems strange that the issue is off and on.
      Thanks for the help!
    • By Goof331
      Does anyone know if there is any differences between the 2 radiators? Will the yz450fx radiator bolt on a yz450f? What I am wanting to do is wire up a fan to my 2016 yz450f. I know how I am going to do it I just don’t want to use a “universal” fan kit. What I would like to do is get a 450fx radiator and the direct bolt on Trail Tech fan for that radiator to have a good clean look.