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DRZ Electrical problem

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What does this sound like, I was riding all day and i noticed my speedo flickering on and off. So i stopped to check it out and like an idiot shut my bike off. All i heard was clicking when i tied to start it, i checked the fuse it seemed to be ok not shure though. I'm starting to think the new tun signal blinkers are drawing to much power from the battery. I have had the acerbis Cyclopse fo a long time and just 3 weeks ago put the LED turn signal mirrors on. Everything was fine untill today. So befoe i rip the bike apart someone tell me this has happened to them and its an easy fix.....

Thanks

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You obviously have a low battery and from the sounds of it, a charging problem. Go to the locked post at the top of page 1 - "look here before asking" and follow the complete electrial troubleshooting guide.

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thanks bud, well i trouble shooted the "LOOK BEFORE U ASK" and i couldnt find any bad wires or what not so i dont know where to go from here. I'm starting to believe its not my charging system becuase i pop started it yesterday to get it home drove about two miles. and when i went to "Trouble shoot" the bike started up still not full power battery but it started so the charging system has to be good i would guess. in the look before u ask forum it talks about ur blinkers blinking to fast mine does that since the removal of the stock front turn signals and placement of turn signal mirrors...... could that be draining power?

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A bunch of people have found a poor connection at the fuse area. Take off the sidcover over the battery. Locate the fuse. Between the fuse holder and the battery is a connector. Carefully disconnect it and clean the terminals. While you have the side cover off and after you have done the 'fix', if it needs it, now is a good time to do a voltage test. Put a voltmeter on the batter, take a reading. Turn the key on, take another reading. Start the engine, take a reading at idle and with the engine rev'd up. Let us know what you get.

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You should get a volt meter and check to see if you are getting 13.5 volts to your battery with the bike running. Unless you are riding with your turn signals constantly on i cannot imagine how they could be running your battery down. You could just have a bad battery. You havent said how old your bike is. I have an 2002 DRS400S and I have replaced 2 bad batteries. It seems the sealed batteries just dont last as long in motorcycles as they do in cars. Good luck with you work

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There seems to be a lot of flickering digital display problems lately. Mine was doing it and I found a corroded connection by the fuse holder, wound up killing my battery because the battery was old and I ran it down mercilessly. That bad connection wasn't letting my battery charge and was not giving full power to the display. The display flickers on and off when it's not getting full power. There have been some bad batteries lately that have been causing low voltage to the display and making it flicker as well. You need to do some voltage readings to figure out what is going on.

Some of the flickering display problems have been because of bad connections on the PCB of the display itself but I don't think that runs down the battery as well.

What part of Pa. are you in? I'm in NJ, if your not too far away, maybe I can stop by and help, I have a meter. If you are too far away, PM and we'll exchange numbers and we can walk through some of the tests together.

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thanks guys, this is alot more helpful than the look before u ask forum. I also noticed the idle has when up since the whole battery ordeal. Does anyone have a picture of the fuse connecter? Cause there is two of them?

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Should only be one fuse holder, covered with an opague rubbery cover. But you wan to check the connector between that and the battery, it sort of looks like an inline fuse holder. If you have a second fuse holder, it is probably black and goes to a plug for use with a battery tender.

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Well, his is the first time someone has told me that the electrical touble shoot giude was no help. But if you don't have a test meter of some kind, that is probably true and you have not looked at things very closely. Alternator put out AC up to spec? AC connections burned? RR connection to wire harness burned? Fuse holder and connections to it loose or burned? Charging voltage at the battery? Wires damaged around the steering head? Loose/corroded battery terminals? If bump starting ran the bike and charged the battery but the display still blinked, then it is probably a bad connection or bad wire behind the headlight some place.

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The speedo was blinking when I had the high beams on, switched to low beams and then no blinking

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thanks guys, this is alot more helpful than the look before u ask forum. I also noticed the idle has when up since the whole battery ordeal. Does anyone have a picture of the fuse connecter? Cause there is two of them?

There is an in-line fuse holder, and a spare fuse w/ it. If the bike runs, the fuse is ok I think. you still need to check the charging system & the connections.

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thanks where do u guys grab new connectors like that and should I charge my battery before or after changing this?

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I'm on my way home now to see if that is the problem. If this isn't it would u guys say the next step is the battery?

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Those connectors should be available at any electrical store.

I would put a charge to the battery just so I knew it was fully charged.

You really need to do some of those electrical tests to have a better idea if your getting full voltage from the reg/rec and the stator is OK.

The "Free Power" mod is a good thing to do to make sure you're getting all the power that can be had to the battery.

I'd also do a leakage test to see how big the draw is on the battery. With the key off, it should be less than 2milliamperes, the book says less than 1ma but we've come to the conclusion that the book is wrong or talking about the E model that has no digital display.

If you are drawing more than 2ma then maybe it is the turn signals, they shouldn't draw anything when the bike is off.

That connector by the fuse is hard to spot, I missed it the first round of checks I did, it's tucked under the frame and you have to really pull the wires for the fuse holder out to find it.

You could take your battery to a parts store that can check the battery under load to see if it is good or not.

The batteries are not exactly cheap to be replaced if it doesn't need replacing.

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well it turns out that the connector pictured above was rusted and nasty, couldn't tell untill I pulled it apart it was real bad. Battery is fully charged so I'm Shure that it was the cause. I really want to thank everyone for the help, I can't really learn from the look before u post forum hahaha

By the way what bulbs are in the cyclopse headlight h3 or h4

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well guys it looks like its happening again, after changing the "bad" connector the battery died again with the same warning sign of the blinking speedometer. now what i'm doing is going to my friends down the street who is amazing at this stuff and we are going to test all connections and the power with the bike on and off. If we can not find the problem do you guys think it is A. bad battery or B. my stator and if you think its my charging system how much do they run........

thank you for all of your help u guys are #1

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As part of your testing, you should test the stator and regulator/rectifier.

You may just need the 'free power mod' so pay extra attention to the connector from the regulator rectifier to the bike wiring harness. It is also possible your battery is seeing it's final days. They will die an early death if they are not getting properly fed with sufficient juice.

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dude,how many times will people have to tell you to check the charging system?

i guess this thread wasnt "alot more helpful" or you would have fixed your bike by now.

chances are the free power mod will fix it up.it takes less time than you have spent not listening in this thread!

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hmm lets see maybe because I thought it was the connector and I'm asking for advice not sarcasm the free power mod was my next thing on the list. You dont know its the connector untill you try. So in this case I tried it and it did not work so next is the free power mod.

I grew up racing bikes not checking electrical systems give me a break there einstein

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