Problems with petcock

Installing a Clarke gas tank on my TE.

I am having big problems with my petcock - I had to transfer it from the original tank and some idiot designed the petcock so you couldn't get to the screws holding it to the tank without taking the petcock apart.

I now have it fitted to the new tank but for the life of me I can't figure out how it all goes back together. It should be simple....but it 'aint

Whichever way I do it, the petcock leaks and/or fuel runs out even when the petcock it turned to Off.

The usual suspects:

IMGP2962.jpg

IMGP2961.jpg

So I figured out the orientation of the actual tap into the housing:

IMGP2963.jpg

The metal washer is not flat to give the tap it's 'resistance' as you turn it:

IMGP2964.jpg

The other washer is plastic of some sort and is just a little bit bigger than the opening of the housing.

The nearest I got was when the tap was inserted into the housing so it was directly in contact with the rubber seal in there. The problem then was the plastic washer was too big and kept getting pinched when I fitted the tap and tightened it all up.

The rubber in the housing has a black ring round the outside and I seem to recall that the metal washer was in there but like a complete DUMBASS I didnt take note of how it all went together.

Can someone please tell me how this goes back together...:thumbsup:

Please help before I lose what little hair I have left

from what I can figure the metal washer goes between metal outer flange and petcokc handle. The plastic washer more then likely goes inside between the handle and innners...without taking mine apart and checking, I am not 100% sure.. however, knowing what I know about these things, the aforementioned route may be correct and makes sense..

Just FYI, mine has started to have a little leakage if I push the handle in when I turn it..this may mean something is worn and may need a rebuild..

I could always get just enough bite to get mine loose with the screwdriver at an angle without taking it apart, but it's not as easy to ensure it gets back on there tight that way. If you use hex head bolts instead of the phillips drive screws when you put it back on, you can tighten it with a wrench from the side. No need to pull things apart then.

Probably some button head allen screws would work too with a ball end allen driver so you wouldn't have to be straight on......

paul

OK, here's how I think it should all fit together:

IMGP2970.jpg

IMGP2971.jpg

IMGP2972.jpg

IMGP2973.jpg

Make sense ? As I say this is the only logical way I can see it all goes together - what's throwing me is the white washer is just a tad too big to fit inside the actual petcock housing and so gets pinched when I screw it all together.

If someone can confirm the accuracy of that info I would put it in the proper place, think this is the first documentation for a petcock rebuild that I've seen.

My expierence with these petcocks, is that once they leak it's time to buy a new one. I've allways been able to get a medium screwdriver sideways enough to tighten or loosen the screws as needed.:thumbsup:

I looked in the parts catalouge for an exploded view. Nada. Sorry.

So here's my WAG.

Space the red rubber thingy out a tad with something (o-ring of a same diam, super thin), so it (red thingy) seals against the Tap. The red rubber thingy my have shrunken and is allowing tap to bottom out when compressed. Maybe fab a new one or soak the old one in gas for a while til it swells back up? When installed, and turned, does tap get witness marks on it from hitting the metal holes in the fuelcock body?

Then- get a new nylon/teflon washer that actually fits in the fuelcock, if it indeed is supposed to do so.

Trail and error from there as there simply is not that many parts.

I'm thinkin- red thing, white thing, tap, black thing, cover.

You should be able to fab up something untill a new one arrives.

Did it leak prior to teardown?

Fluid's follw the path of least resistance.

I could always get just enough bite to get mine loose with the screwdriver at an angle without taking it apart, but it's not as easy to ensure it gets back on there tight that way. If you use hex head bolts instead of the phillips drive screws when you put it back on, you can tighten it with a wrench from the side. No need to pull things apart then.

Probably some button head allen screws would work too with a ball end allen driver so you wouldn't have to be straight on......

paul

I definitely plan on doing that...once I figure out how it all goes back together correctly.

If someone can confirm the accuracy of that info I would put it in the proper place, think this is the first documentation for a petcock rebuild that I've seen.

I feel honored....I think :thumbsup:

I looked in the parts catalouge for an exploded view. Nada. Sorry.

So here's my WAG.

Space the red rubber thingy out a tad with something (o-ring of a same diam, super thin), so it (red thingy) seals against the Tap. The red rubber thingy my have shrunken and is allowing tap to bottom out when compressed. Maybe fab a new one or soak the old one in gas for a while til it swells back up? When installed, and turned, does tap get witness marks on it from hitting the metal holes in the fuelcock body?

Then- get a new nylon/teflon washer that actually fits in the fuelcock, if it indeed is supposed to do so.

Trail and error from there as there simply is not that many parts.

I'm thinkin- red thing, white thing, tap, black thing, cover.

You should be able to fab up something untill a new one arrives.

Did it leak prior to teardown?

Fluid's follw the path of least resistance.

The tap definitely goes flush against the petcock housing - any other way (and trust me....I've tried every other way) and the tap will allow gas to flow, even when in the off position.

It didn't leak before - I only took it apart to get to the screws to take the whole assy off prior to installing it on the Clarke.

I am pretty sure I have it right as per my post above - I have had a cold all week so I haven't had time to try it yet.

Once I have it working correctly, I'll post back on the outcome.

I feel honored....I think :thumbsup:

You took good pics.

If someone can say for sure that is how it goes together I'll file it in the proper place.

OK, here's how I think it should all fit together:

IMGP2970.jpg

IMGP2971.jpg

IMGP2972.jpg

IMGP2973.jpg

Make sense ? As I say this is the only logical way I can see it all goes together - what's throwing me is the white washer is just a tad too big to fit inside the actual petcock housing and so gets pinched when I screw it all together.

That is the correct way:thumbsup: file away Coffee

That is the correct way:thumbsup: file away Coffee

Thanks - filed away in the "fuel & intake section" of the important inf sticky.

Thanks - filed away in the "fuel & intake section" of the important inf sticky.

I can confirm that. I finally got round to looking at it last week. I had to trim the white washer a little to get it to fit (which was no problem since it most def is not meant to work as a gasket, merely to stop the metal spring washer from rubbing against the actual petcock housing) but it now works fine and doesn't leak.

Thanks for everyone's feedback. I guess I need to take note of even the smallest of assemblies when taking them apart :eek:

That is the correct way:thumbsup: file away Coffee

Thanks for the confirmation.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now