Best coolant and mix YZ426

What should i be running for coolant in my 426? 50/50 i hear for winter but wouldnt water be better for summer. I know i should be moving to prevent overheating, but i start boiling when im messing around in a field popping wheelies and such. If i have to run it 80 across a beanfield all the time to keep it from getting hot i will ghostride this thing into the river. Fixed the water pump weep hole leak problem with the help of yall. All my packing in my silencer blew out, now i think i have two things to work on. Overheating and backfire on deacceleration(which wasnt happening before i fixed my wp seals and blew out my silencer). I am going to follow the old posts for setting the idle and fuel adjustment as im sure this is part of the problem. What is the best coolant and mix for a YZ426? Currently running Peak 50/50. Save your time and dont mention engine ice or other $30 a gallon coolants please.

I think you are missing out when you don't want to take a look at the engine ice coolent...I run then in my Banshee and the YZ426F (both hot running bikes) and really like the stuff, and seems to cool the engine more than the 50:50.

I was skeptical at first, but will never go back to the mixed stuff again after trying them.

Engine Ice is basically nothing more than 50/50 propylene glycol anti-freeze and distilled water. You can mix that yourself.

The question at hand is a trade off. Water cools better than any anti-freeze mix does, but boils at 230-235 under 16 psi of pressure. 50/50 EG or PG antifreeze mixes cool almost as well and won't boil until 265 and 275 respectively under the pressure of a good 16 psi (1.1 bar) cap.

BTW, how is your radiator cap, anyway?

I have a '00 yz 426 that I rode in the baja 500 last june, and I ran Coolanol in my bike which worked out great. Coolanol is a premix 50:50, and at 13 dollars a gallon it wasnt too expensive. As far as water goes, my experience has been that the 426 runs too hot to use water seeing that it has a relatively low boiling point.

Sorry to say but I would have to say that there is no better alternative than ENGINE ICE. I was skeptical about it too but I can ride for an hour, and let the bike idle for at least 4-5 minutes while waiting for people (mom and dad)to catch up and still not boil over. And you cannot say that the price is that bad when an

$18 1/2 gallon bottle will fill your rads up and will not blow any out for a season. $18 a year is not bad. I have had mine in for 7 months and have not had to add a drop, and I ride single track. Give it a try. You wont be disappointed.

I beg to differ in opinion......shocker right.:thumbsup:

This is the best Coolant for a motorcycle period end of story. All the Water Wetter, Engine Ice not lower temps less than this stuff or more importantly last as long and still work:thumbsup:

You can get propylene glycol antifreeze from Walmart for about $11/gallon, it's called Lowtox and is made by Prestone.

You could also throw a few capfuls per gallon of water wetter in there, its made by Redzone. It increases the heat transfer between the metal and the fluid by lowering the surface tension of the fluid. Its about $10/pint.

I Would also suggest getting a higher pressure radiator cap, 1.6 Bar. It increases the boiling point of the radiator fluid. You can get one from for $20.

You could also throw a few capfuls per gallon of water wetter in there, its made by Redzone.

I Would also suggest getting a higher pressure radiator cap, 1.6 Bar. It increases the boiling point of the radiator fluid. You can get one from for $20.


The cap should not be necessary IF the current cap will hold the 16 psi it is supposed to.

Another vote for engine ice. It made my 04 450 run much cooler.

I mix up a gallon at a time with 80% distilled water, 20% propylene glycol and 4 capfulls of water wetter. It's cheap, works great, but looks like :thumbsup:

That is my recipe as well. With the addition of the 1.6 bar cap I have not boiled over once since I started using that combination.

If you don't have a problem with any of these issues, then water will work. Raising the boiling point is probably the most important of any of these issues (except in a real winter), perhaps especially at higher altitudes, where you might consider a 1.5 bar radiator cap in place of your 1.1. Boiling water can't cool anything, and sometimes just raising the BP 20 degrees makes all the difference.

Too funny. Your the one who gave me the idea in the first place Gray.

Where's the inconsistency?

You know what happens when you talk about your own bike :thumbsup:

Here goes. I think you have another problem. We (my crew) ride 426's and 250f 02 and don't have a overheating problem. We stop on the side of the track and talk. I can't keep the air moving more than about 25mph. Check you CAP or replace it. Clean your radiators and the fins. A friend was complaining about this once on his 426. It would boil out at the line. turned out he needed a new head gasket.

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