battery question !!

i have a wr 450 on order and was wondering . i don't know much about e-starts and this might be a stupid question but,if i take the battery off the bike will it still run ? i might get into a race or something and would like to shed a few pounds not keep it off permanently just for the little extra advantage. any reply's appreciated

You would think you could still kick start it pretty easily. don't know how it would affect the lighting on it , or are you going to remove them to? only one way to find out, get that bike under ya and tell us how it is!!! :)

i would imagine that the battery wouldn't have anything to do with the lighting i would think that the stator would be what keeps the light powered i'm thinkin the battery is for starting purposes only. i will keep the battery on. i just will take it off to lose a few pounds for when the 2 smokers wanna race me. i've had kick start all my life and the e-button really isn't why i got the 450 it's a good option but i got the bike because of the extra HP and it's gonna be lighter than my 97 dr 435. which is like 277 and i'm guessing that the 450 is around 230 - 250 so thats a bifg difference there. less weight more power what more could you ask for besides some super models to wash you uh i mean your bike after a hard day of riding. :)

yea i know where you are coming from. i don't know how big the battery is going to be in the 450's. where do you ride at in jersey i am getting ready to go stay in jackson new jersey and i all ready have a membership over at chadsworth at the off road park.(i am from ohio but work on the east coast.) the battery may just help keep the lights a bit brighter when idling around! but still i wouldn't worry about it


i've been to chadsworth it's really nice there . the mx track is cool but i had more fun on the trails .i do mostly trail riding but i like to race once in a while and when i went to chadsworth i got arm pump so bad i almost dumped my bike cause i was wide open when i hit the first double and when i landed i came down on my back tire and rode a wheelie ,i woulda had more fun on the mx track but , my ol' DR435 is a beast in the weight department but i held up pretty good against the 250's i just got my butt handed to me by the 426's .

I would be concerned about blowing the bulbs when you revved it up. The battery helps absorb excess voltage and with it removed, you may pop some bulbs. I've seen it happen on ATVs with just a dead battery, so I wouldn't think your WR would be much different. Just something to keep in mind.

I think it really depends on how Yamaha configures the wiring on the new bike. The 02WR and previous models were wired for regulated AC voltage for the lighting. I personally have not blown any lights with this setup. Will the 450 have AC or DC voltage to the lights this year? If the system recharges the battery, it will have to DC voltage. I run both AC and DC on my dual sported WR, The DC supplies power to just the turn signals and the horn which requires very little amperage. The DC system is not rechargeable while riding as I have not changed to stock wiring which is of course regulated AC current. This could have been accomplished by way of a rectifier and changing the ground system on the stator but many with Baja design kits report problems with the charging system keeping the battery fully charged. I can get plenty of rides in before needing to recharge.(I recharge the powersonic gel cell by way of a battery tender that hooks into the wiring harness at the end of days riding) I too am curious how Yamaha will be wiring these bikes but I am sure it will probably be a fully DC system. At least the 450 will have a kickstart not leaving you in a lurch when the battery fails you a deep in mountains! Take note from our DRZ brothers! A kickstarter is not an option, it is a necessity.


Thumper, in regards to your orginal question, should you care to lose the battery and assuming the wiring is a DC setup to recharge (no reason to believe it would not), you can use a capacitator called "battery eliminator" This will keep circuit working properly without the battery.




Any big old dc electrolytic capacitor will work as a battery substitute with the proviso that it will run your stuff for a VERY short time once the motor stops and of course will have as close to zero cranking power as one could define. I'm running with one the size of a film canister right now, but I intended it to just be a filter alongside the battery pack (but I have had no battery pack for over a year). In another bike I have one about 1 1/4" dia x 4" high rated for >20 working volts and whatever uF. You should be able to pick one up for a few bucks at an electronic surplus place. They come out of the power supply section of old electronic equipment. Just put a little protection around it so it doesn't get dented etc.

The packaged $$ hi-po racing version capacitor was a great money printing idea by whoever did it. Wish I had thought of it. The only variable you have to deal with is the general quality and age of the capacitor. At around a buck a piece get a couple spares. It's ok to get higher voltage like 30, 40 50 etc, you just get less uF's per physical size, but stay safe and get at least 15 working Vdc bare minimum, 20 V or more preferred. The working voltage is less than the peak voltage (peak is what the capacitor can withstand before steaming and popping).

If your regulator liked the SLA it will like the capacitor too. A SLA arrangement, ie that's what you have if you have estart, is dc power at the battery terminals.

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