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Why cannot start in gear with clutch pulled in?


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I've seen GNCC racers put the bike in neutral and hold the clutch in while the motor is still running. Then shut the motor off while holding the clutch in. This keeps the clutch plates from being suctioned together with oil making the bike easier to start when the green flag drops. I personally have never tried it.

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My '03 does the same thing, it's perfectly normal. It's also pretty normal to give the bike a little throttle before dropping it into 1st gear when the bike is cold to break the suction/drag on the plates. My bike did it with the stock components in and it does it now with new EBC plates and a new Hinson basket.

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Starting in gear does depend on what kind of clutch perch and tranny oil you're running.

Neither of my CRFs wanting to start in gear with the stock clutch perch. Even with most of the slack adjusted out of the clutch cable.

On my '02 I have a Works Connection Pro Perch, and with the cable adjusted correctly it will start in any gear (1st gear requires a much harder kick), on my '05 I have a Magura hydraulic clutch, it will also start in any gear.

I've ran Honda HP tranny oil and Rotella T in the tranny, both will let you start it in gear.

You just gotta give it one hell of a kick to get it started.

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Starting in gear does depend on what kind of clutch perch and tranny oil you're running.

Neither of my CRFs wanting to start in gear with the stock clutch perch. Even with most of the slack adjusted out of the clutch cable.

On my '02 I have a Works Connection Pro Perch, and with the cable adjusted correctly it will start in any gear (1st gear requires a much harder kick), on my '05 I have a Magura hydraulic clutch, it will also start in any gear.

I've ran Honda HP tranny oil and Rotella T in the tranny, both will let you start it in gear.

You just gotta give it one hell of a kick to get it started.

Think I will have to check the works con Pro Perch out

Cheers

:eek:

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when the engine is hot, I can start my 05 in gear. the I have 7 hours on the complete clutch setup, basket, inner hub, orginal plates steel/fiber.

I have even extended the clutch arm with 7mm to get a easier pull.

It's about how much drag the clutch has, when the oil is warm it will be easier.

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I've seen GNCC racers put the bike in neutral and hold the clutch in while the motor is still running. Then shut the motor off while holding the clutch in. This keeps the clutch plates from being suctioned together with oil making the bike easier to start when the green flag drops. I personally have never tried it.

Some hold in the clutch, in gear, rev it, and kill the engine not letting off the clutch at all. I have had some sucess with this, but if it does not kick on the first time (about 50% of the time), you will be the last guy off the line at the start:foul: My bike always starts in neutral, and I still get mid pack starts doing it like that. I have still not decided which is best.

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when the engine is hot, I can start my 05 in gear. the I have 7 hours on the complete clutch setup, basket, inner hub, orginal plates steel/fiber.

I have even extended the clutch arm with 7mm to get a easier pull.

It's about how much drag the clutch has, when the oil is warm it will be easier.

how did you go about increasing the length of the clutch arm? Any pics? I wold love to reduce the clutch pull on my bike, mine has a pretty light pull, but I would like to reduce it as much as possible.

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Too much tranny oil = harder start or easier.

I thought there was something wrong with my bike the first time I tried starting in it gear..

Now I don't bother to even kick. I make sure it is in neutral first.

But might ttry the ideas mentioned here.

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So there's always a certain amount of drag on the clutch even when the lever is pulled in, that must be why the c/s sprocket twitches when I shift into gear. Always wondered about that...

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Its a shame they cant design a basic design of the manual clutch basket like the Recluse for a cheaper price since they are in gear all the time when starting and obviously have no problems ?

The Rekluse has exactly the same issue as a stock clutch - it's harder (in my case, impossible) to start the bike in gear when you have a Rekluse clutch. This is because the plates are sticking slightly because of the oil film between them, causing a slight drag. Just enough to make it hard to start.

I think the Rekluse is a great piece of equipment with nice advantages, but it does have it's drawbacks sometimes.

1. No bump starting

2. You can't verify that the bike is in neutral by rocking it back and forth - Hopefully, you have it installed on a bike where it's easy to find neutral with your toe.

The list of advantages is a lot longer, so I'm keeping mine.?

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The Rekluse has exactly the same issue as a stock clutch - The list of advantages is a lot longer, so I'm keeping mine.?

I want a Recluse but I think Im going to wait until the day comes when I swap my R for an X as I dont think starting issues in the middle of the desert nearing summer is going to make for a great days riding..

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