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types of Chains....?

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Ok.....going to replace chain and sprockets on 2003 drz 400e. I know its a 520 and 112 length....thats what the book says. But....can anyone give a brief explanation of the diff types of chains...ie....er mx, ert 2, erv o-ring, x ring....blah blah blah. pretty sure i just want to get an o-ring chain 520/112, but any suggestion on which to buy, and are the combo kits good?

thanks

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x ring chains are quite expensive. i put one on a DR650 and i only could afford to cause i worked at a cycle shop, otherwise i would be pleased with a nice Tsubaki (spelling?). O-ring, or course. x ring chains are supposed to have less resistance to flexing than o rings, but they sure are expensive.

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I replaced the stock RK "O" ring chain with only 10,000 miles on my SM ( it was starting to stretch enef that I needed to ajust theslack more offton )

so replacing it so soon I was able to reuse the sprockts

I'm hoping that the D.I.D. "X" ring will last 20,000 miles ---after that I will replace all 3 parts

on my street bikes I can get over 30,000 miles out of new "X" or "O" ring chane and new sprockets

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Ok.....going to replace chain and sprockets on 2003 drz 400e. I know its a 520 and 112 length....thats what the book says. But....can anyone give a brief explanation of the diff types of chains...ie....er mx, ert 2, erv o-ring, x ring....blah blah blah. pretty sure i just want to get an o-ring chain 520/112, but any suggestion on which to buy, and are the combo kits good?

thanks

http://www.1tail.com/sa/p/520_MVXZ_Chain_120_Links.htm look you want a good chain ?? well here it is this is not going to stretch will last a long time > and you can get them Red, Blue, Yellow and Natural Steel. any color

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my logic says (and i might be wrong as usually) that a plain chain (no O-ring no X-ring) with an automatic oiling device such as a scotoiler will be a cheaper and better performing alternative than the above. Cheaper because it is and better because it will cause less drag. Besides you only need the O-X-rings to hold lubricant, if you have a drop of oil every few seconds you should be fine.

I havent tried it yet. Any comments?

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if I was MX racing ware I need all the power I can get all the time than the "O" or "X" ring would suck a small portion of that power away ( I would have sponcers that buy me a new chain every race day too )

but I'm not

I only run my bike at WOT for 2% on every little road trip

and if some place would sponcer me to help pay for gass I I ..... well I would do some thing that is not "work safe"

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I'm not a big fan of RK chains... myself and many of my cruiser riding freinds have had RK chains on our cruisers and have gotten terrible mileage out of them. (like 10k miles instead of 20k out of the DID's)

Eddie recommends Regena chains, so when I was looking for a chain I bought one. So far so good.

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that will not work as soon as it goes crazy and oil gets on your rear tire thats when you will go down

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the flow of such devices is minimal, usually set at around 5 drops / minute. There is no way to get oil on your rear tyre.

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I saw that auto oiler on a motorcycle from the 60's...It didn't succeed as though it kept your chain lubed it also made a mess everywhere else...

For off-road I replace Sprockets and Chain at the same time...

I use Steel Sprockets (JT for rear ususally) front and rear and find a decent

quality O-Ring chain (Usually RK)...I might try the Primary Drive one next time though at RockyMountain...Previously the Primary Drive chains had received BAD reviews by members here as at the time they used hollow rollers and were not deemed as strong (Infact I think one or two members had them break). Reviewing chain prices recently showed prices have really gone up.

Amazing that with 100 years of motorcycle evolution we're still using chain drive because it's 98 percent efficient (Belt and Shaft drive are less efficient and each one of those has downsides with it as well). I had a Kawasaki Ninja 305 back in the 80's that used belt drive and I really liked that alot but the belts were really expensive and like I said power transfer with those are not as efficient as chain drive...Still though...It was nice not having to lube and not having to clean up chain grease muck...I've switched to Maxima Chain Wax for my chains and have been using it for about two years now. Less mess but I don't think it's any better than an oil lube...just less messy...

Oh and I'll EDIT my post to preempt the WD-40 people...No way will I ever run WD-40 as a chain lube (Since it's not intended for that).

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the flow of such devices is minimal, usually set at around 5 drops / minute. There is no way to get oil on your rear tyre.

OK well when it brakes or goes wrong , even only one time , i dont want to be riding it , your going to the hospital , myself ill just spray oil on the chain when i get home , every night . good luck

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