water logged

OK, I know someone else has done this before....played submarine with my 426 in the Creek today. Couldn't get it restarted on the trail. I'll change the spark plug tomorrow, change filter, drain oil and kick until Thursday. Anything else I should check or worry about the bike???

Damn that SUCKS!!! Maybe you should also dump the fuel in case any water got in there.Drain the fuel out of the carb too. You might also use some of that STP fuel system treatment to help dry up all the water in the lines. ???? :)

drain all oil.

install new/clean oil filter (maybe just clean this one w/ WD40 since you will be dumping this oil relatively soon!)

pull your air filter, ensure your airbox is COMPLETELY empty AND dry. Check the drain plug on your airbox.

clean, re-oil and allow freshly oiled air filter to setup for a bit (otherwise you may be sucking air filter oil into the carbs' air jets and plug them up).

pull the bowl on your carb and run fresh fuel through your carb (bowl still removed). Ensure bowl is water free and re-install on your carb.

NOTE: you MAY have water in your accelerator pump!! For safety sake I personally would pull the carb off, completely disassemble and clean.

>> Heck, a good carb cleaning does nothing but good anyhow.

put your fresh oil in, something NOT expensive. This is your sacrifice oil. I highly endorse good old Castrol GTX. I used to use GTX EXCLUSIVELY in ALL OF MY BIKES, but now I am using Mobil 1 20W-50. For winter grade, I WILL be using Castrol GTX 10W-40.

Run the bike easy for ~ 30 minutes.

Drain oil, pull and install clean/new oil filter. Fill w/ your normal brand oil, and you SHOULD be ready to go.

If you have ANY concerns, put more sacrificial oil in it, and run another 30 minutes. The first (and only) time I sunk my WR400 just like you, I did exactly this.

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Follow steps the others recommended. After changing oil and running for 30 minutes (I ran mine 15), check the oil for grey-ness. This is caused from moisture mixing with the oil. If the oil turned grey, change oil again. Repeat this until oil does not get grey after 30 minutes of easy running.

Also, when you change the air filter, peek into the carb to make sure that no silt made it past the filter. If you see any, I agree that a carb cleaning is in order.

When I dunked mine, it took 4 oil changes before I was convinced that the water was all out of the crankcase. Oil is cheap compared to major engine work!

15 minutes between oil changes DOES work for me too!

Just out of curiousity, is it possible to do this on the trail?

When I did this to a 2-stroke, I just drained the fuel from the carb, pulled the plug and air filter out, turned the bike upsidedown and pushed the kickstart about 20 times or so. I squeezed the water out of the filter and ran gas over the plug and put them back in. Then I turned the bike upright, and it lit right off.

When I ran mine under, I first held the bike up to drain water out of the exhaust system. Then allowed water to drain from the airbox (as I stated in a earlier post I do not carry any tools and have yet to be left stranded).

After about 45 minutes of kicking.. resting... kicking, It was dry enough to start. I then whent back to camp, changed oil and air filter and resumed a fun packed weekend in the woods!

There is just oportunity for water to get trapped in the engine of a 4 stroke vrs a 2smoke.

Did you pull the compression release while kicking to clear the water out of the cylinder?

The reason I ask is that when I was younger, before I knew the 2 stroke drill, one of my buddies submerged his on the edge of a lake. He tried to bump start it down a hill and bent the connecting rod.

He had water on top of the piston and since water won't compress, something had to give.

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