Throttle Tube Replacement

So i got my fat bars on and i get the new grip on the left side and go to pull the grip off the throttle tube and it would appear to have been molded as part of the tube, so who has good/bad input on what throttle tubes are available.

I used a Zeta tube. Great value and perfect fit.

is the zeta tube aluminum?


The OEm grip will come off, but it's a lot of work and mess. Sharp knife, wire wheel on a grinder both work.. Just watch your fingers.

It's time consuming, but not hard.

thanks bronco. i got the old screw driver and air nozzle out to pop it off with nothing. Then i put a nice slit down the center to peel it away, nothing. Then i got really into and starting prying, cutting, peeling and it didnt seem to go very well. So i left most of the grip on so i could at least ride to the store if i need to. Maybe ill get ambitious and try again:)


i've always just used the air nozzle on all my bikes and had the grips come off right away...yours must of been glued on or something

every other bike on earth has come off like that for me as well lyzic but not this one. It must be some serious gorilla snot holding this thing on:). I got this bike with under 200miles on it bone stock and had never seen dirt so i know whatever is on there came from the factory that way. I wish they put that much time into greasing bearings.

It's that way on all DRZ's.. The grip is glued/ molded to the throttle tube.

Yes it is different then other bikes. Dont sweat it.. It just is.

We talked about in another thread, the rubber grip is vulcanized on there. Heat welded sort of.

When I ordered my fattys I asked about the throttle tube and the guy on the phone said no. Should have listened to my gut, the throttle took me longer than the whole rest of the install. I like Zeta but check TT store for a metal one just as a comparison.

thanks guys. yeah i knew as soon as i started on it that something was different. no biggie just a pain because i ordered the bars, risers and new tires. sidewalls were so stiff that i ended up pinching a tube leaving me bike less. placed an order for a tube and some grips, 4 days later now i need to order more stuff. At least its ridable with my half mangled grip. I do have a motion pro push/pull throttle for some gsxr flat slides, i wonder if the tubes are close:)

same with the DR950se

I just spent 2 hours fighting with mine before I threw it away. Fffffing Suzuki. Never seen anything like that.:thumbsup:

I just spent 2 hours fighting with mine before I threw it away. Fffffing Suzuki. Never seen anything like that.:thumbsup:

Guess you have never had a new Japanese dirt bike! They are all like that. Vulcanized on.

I just spent 2 hours fighting with mine before I threw it away. Fffffing Suzuki. Never seen anything like that.:thumbsup:

Ahh, come on now.. :ride: It's not that big a deal... I may have spent 30 minutes start to finish when I removed that first grip from my stock DRZ S in 2003. I was in a motel parking lot in Washington. Just a sharp knife in hand and a can of brake clean.

You can whittle off the majority of the grip in just a few minutes. What remains is the hard part. Later I found a wire wheel on a 4 ½ angle grind will do the job in just another few minutes… but baring something like that to help.. some more carful slicing with a knife and you can get it down to the plastic tube pretty quickly. Though not perfectly clean, close enough to get a new grip on.

Guess you have never had a new Japanese dirt bike! They are all like that. Vulcanized on.

Well, my YZ and XR before that were nothing like this one. Slice them and peel them back and you are done. After whittling away all the rubber it still looked like crap and was no where near smooth. Not worth the time to mess with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By BikeChimp
      I'd like to turn my UK 2004 DRZ400S back to stock airbox (snorkel) and jets, needle shim position etc
      When I bought it the PO had fitted a Sigma6 kit and done the 3x3 mod but is doesn't have a tapered needle like the JD and other kits. Took me ages to get it running right, however it still runs rich and I'm fed up of arsing around with it. 
      So I've bought a standard airbox without 3x3 hole, stock exhaust.
      Q1 The Suzuki manual says this Mukuni BSR36 (29FA) carb should have a 142.5 Main Jet but the Clymer manual say its a 135.  In UK everything's from sea level to 1000m. I'm in Sheffield so nothing gets above 500m even in the Peaks (Hills). Any UK owners or anyone else know what the correct jet should be?
      Q2 Says the original needle is a '5DH36-2nd'. The needle has 5 notches on it. Currently set at 2 clip from bottom. The Suzuki reference says needle is 5DH36-2nd, Does the 2nd bit mean 2nd from top or bottom?
      Q3 - Does anyone have a detailed photo of the shim order just in case it was assembled wrong. (mine is attached)
      I know most people on here are going to be horrified I'm taking back to stock but any help on above would be really appreciated.

    • By Bgringo
      I've read a lot of threads about this but still haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.  I'm pulling my 2004 DRZ400S out of storage sometime this week and getting it ready for the season.  I live at 9,000 ft, but my first ride of the year is probably going to be at around 5,000 ft.  I was going to pull the 145 main jet I'm running and put in the 150 adjusting the needle from the 2 clip to the 3rd, then re-jet once I got home.  I already have the extended fuel mixture screw in place so I started thinking that I should just run the 150 jet set up and adjust the fuel screw to compensate for the higher elevation where I'll be doing most of my riding.  I will be going down in elevation for rides until late May or June depending on snowfall, but riding on the street when I'm able.  Are there any disadvantages with this?
      I'm new to posting on this forum, so please forgive me if I didn't get the right search words in and there is already a post about this.
    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .