Installing the TT shop FCR-MX Kit

Hi guys. I just received my Thumpertalk DRZ FCR-MX conversion kit but I'm finding the 2 page instruction sheet a little lacking in detail. Is there a thread here that can walk me through the install process (with pictures ideally)? :ride:

Set #1 says to "Prepare carb for installation" and tells me what jets I need, but I don't even know how to crack open the carb, where the jets go, which is the main, etc. Where does the needle go? Which screws do I remove to get to it? Do I reuse the original needle's clip? :thumbsup:

I'm also reading that some of you have taken out the air jet completely.. but the instructions tell me to use a 200 main air jet, which I assume is already in the carb as one was not supplied? :bonk:

Sorry for all the questions.. I've installed at Dynajet kit into the stock carb so I'm pretty mechanically enclined.. just don't want to miss something and then have to take the carb back out after installing it. Could someone please clarify the steps for me (maybe this could be a sticky for others too)?

I have a 2003 DRZ400S with a full Yosh RS-2 system and I have done the 3x3 mod.. I also have a TwinAir filter. I live in southern Ontario, Canada, so not sure what the best jetting should be (not sure about elevation here) but if you can help out with that too, that would be awesome!

Thanks! :lol:

Thanks guys for the links. I had found some of these before, but the others were good to read.. now I learned about moving motor mounts, sticky cables, etc.

This whole install still seems kinda unclear.. lots of bits of information found in various threads.. I must have spent 2 good hours already just reading threads.. and many of these are from several years ago. I guess I cannot grasp why the documentation that came with my "kit" hasn't been updated to include all the relevant info in a proper order. I'm reading about guys who have had to remove the carb because they forgot this or that.. I'm afraid to start installing.. maybe I need to spend many more hours trying to find more bits of info scattered all over? Would it really be too hard for the TT shop to update the documentation with all the proper steps and some pictures to save us all from spending hours and hours scratching our heads? I had really hoped to be out riding by now, not still sitting here with an open box, a bunch of parts, and no clear instructions on what to do with them all... :ride:

Anyways, sorry for venting and thanks for all the replies.. just expected more from TT buying what seemed to be a one box solution with everything needed included.. now I'm also missing an extended fuel screw it seems.. so do I wait and get that first or do I install it later.. don't understand why it just wasn't included, I would have happily paid a few extra bucks for the kit instead of not even knowing I needed it and now not having it... :thumbsup:

Just wondering how much it was total. Thinking I need to wheelie in 3rd.

Hey Sig,

Please use duck tape to protect the frame from scratches.

And I mounted the carb to the air box boot first, then pryed the carb onto the intake boot. I also took the black plastic box loose to see the airbox boot good. It seems that the rubber boots (airbox and intake) are to short but they will work, just make sure they are all the way on. good luck

jb

OK, this is what I've done tonight... perhaps the powers to be could add these instructions to the ones shipping with the TT FCR Conversion Kit?

1. Remove plastic throttle wheel guard nut using 4mm allen wrench and then pull the plastic guard away from the carb to remove.

2. Using a 3mm allen wrench, remove the two black nuts from the top of the carb, the ones above and below the “FLAT CR” stamped logo.

3. Remove the top cover from the carb.

4. Remove the needle set screw using a 4mm allen wrench. This is the screw located in the middle of the cavity underneath the top cover.

5. The needle is located underneath the set screw. Pull it out using small needle nose pliers. The factory carb is shipped with an EMR or EMS needle. We want to replace this using the supplied EMN needle.

6. Using small pliers or a screw driver, pry off and remove the C clip from the original needle.

7. Reinstall the C clip onto the new EMN needle. It goes into the third slot from the flat end. If you place the C clip into the slot and then gently hold the needle on both sides of the C clip while pushing the C clip against a table, the C clip should easily snap into place. Try not to use pliers or other tools which could leave marks on the soft brass needle.

8. Insert the new needle with C clip installed back into the carb. Gently jiggle it side to side until if falls down the hole to the bottom.

9. Install the needle set screw and tighten using a 4mm allen wrench.

10. Install the top cover and secure with the two black screws. Tighten using a 3mm allen wrench.

11. Remove the fuel screw from the bottom of the carb. It is recessed in a hole near the large hex shaped drain bolt. Use a small flathead screw driver.

12. Using a 3mm allen wrench, remove the four black screws securing the bottom cover to the carb. Three of these screws also secure the small brackets for the pink hoses, as well as the bracket for the idle adjustment knob.

13. Remove the bottom cover from the carb by pulling straight out. Be careful to pull it straight out as there is a brass tube and a metal pushrod protruding from the two halves.

14. Using a 6mm socket, remove the main fuel jet which is located right in the middle of the opened bottom end of the carb. Confirm whether you need the factory installed 160 (for use with aftermarket exhaust) or a separately purchased 155 (for use with standard exhaust) and reinstall the proper main jet.

15. Using a flat screw driver, remove the pilot fuel jet which is located above or below the main jet (not the one diagonally off to the side). Confirm you have the factory installed 45 pilot fuel jet and reinstall.

16. Reinstall the bottom cover onto the carb.

17. Using a 3mm allen wrench, reinstall the four black screws to secure the bottom cover to the carb. Don’t forget to thread the screws through the small brackets for the pink hoses, as well as the bracket for the idle adjustment knob.

18. Reinstall the fuel screw and gently turn it clockwise until it hits the bottom. Once turned all the way in, back the screw out two full turns. This should be the correct setting needed for most installations.

19. Remove the factory installed 100 pilot air jet. We will not be using this jet at all.

20. Install the bell mouth o-ring into the groove on the carb.

21. Install the bell mouth using the supplied 4mm allen head screws. Make sure the o-ring installed in the previous step is properly seated in the groove.

Let me know if I got it all right so far or if I'm missing anything? I got lots of pictures too, have to figure out how to upload them to this thread... Thanks! :thumbsup:

OK, this is what I've done tonight... perhaps the powers to be could add these instructions to the ones shipping with the TT FCR Conversion Kit?

1. Remove plastic throttle wheel guard nut using 4mm allen wrench and then pull the plastic guard away from the carb to remove.

2. Using a 3mm allen wrench, remove the two black nuts from the top of the carb, the ones above and below the “FLAT CR” stamped logo.

3. Remove the top cover from the carb.

4. Remove the needle set screw using a 4mm allen wrench. This is the screw located in the middle of the cavity underneath the top cover.

5. The needle is located underneath the set screw. Pull it out using small needle nose pliers. The factory carb is shipped with an EMR or EMS needle. We want to replace this using the supplied EMN needle.

6. Using small pliers or a screw driver, pry off and remove the C clip from the original needle.

7. Reinstall the C clip onto the new EMN needle. It goes into the third slot from the flat end. If you place the C clip into the slot and then gently hold the needle on both sides of the C clip while pushing the C clip against a table, the C clip should easily snap into place. Try not to use pliers or other tools which could leave marks on the soft brass needle.

8. Insert the new needle with C clip installed back into the carb. Gently jiggle it side to side until if falls down the hole to the bottom.

9. Install the needle set screw and tighten using a 4mm allen wrench.

10. Install the top cover and secure with the two black screws. Tighten using a 3mm allen wrench.

11. Remove the fuel screw from the bottom of the carb. It is recessed in a hole near the large hex shaped drain bolt. Use a small flathead screw driver.

12. Using a 3mm allen wrench, remove the four black screws securing the bottom cover to the carb. Three of these screws also secure the small brackets for the pink hoses, as well as the bracket for the idle adjustment knob.

13. Remove the bottom cover from the carb by pulling straight out. Be careful to pull it straight out as there is a brass tube and a metal pushrod protruding from the two halves.

14. Using a 6mm socket, remove the main fuel jet which is located right in the middle of the opened bottom end of the carb. Confirm whether you need the factory installed 160 (for use with aftermarket exhaust) or a separately purchased 155 (for use with standard exhaust) and reinstall the proper main jet.

15. Using a flat screw driver, remove the pilot fuel jet which is located above or below the main jet (not the one diagonally off to the side). Confirm you have the factory installed 45 pilot fuel jet and reinstall.

16. Reinstall the bottom cover onto the carb.

17. Using a 3mm allen wrench, reinstall the four black screws to secure the bottom cover to the carb. Don’t forget to thread the screws through the small brackets for the pink hoses, as well as the bracket for the idle adjustment knob.

18. Reinstall the fuel screw and gently turn it clockwise until it hits the bottom. Once turned all the way in, back the screw out two full turns. This should be the correct setting needed for most installations.

19. Remove the factory installed 100 pilot air jet. We will not be using this jet at all.

20. Install the bell mouth o-ring into the groove on the carb.

21. Install the bell mouth using the supplied 4mm allen head screws. Make sure the o-ring installed in the previous step is properly seated in the groove.

Let me know if I got it all right so far or if I'm missing anything? I got lots of pictures too, have to figure out how to upload them to this thread... Thanks! :thumbsup:

Great job...As far a the pics...You have to post hem online somwhere first. I use photobucket. Pics would be great.

Enjoy

Keep going please!!

no offense,but if that needs to be added to the instructions the person doing the install probably shouldnt be.

general carb knowledge is needed to isntall any carb on any motorcycle.

you get 0 instructions when you buy a fcr from any where else.

not to mention,this forum is here with any info that could ever be needed.

no offense,but if that needs to be added to the instructions the person doing the install probably shouldnt be.

So very true, but as we all know many people, who should never be allowed near a tool box, have attempted to install an FCR, with varying results.

So perhaps it would not hurt the TT Store to include a few more printed instructions, this latest set, once complete, would do the job, with or without the pics.

Neil. :thumbsup::ride::bonk:

thats completely up to them.

when i personally sell the kits i include no instructions,but i do set the carb up before it leaves.

those people seem to do just fine with all the info on TT.

no one would know the kit exists with out TT so why no use the info posted?

as with anything the instructions could be letter for letter with 1000 pictures.that still doesnt make up for common sense or mechanical ability.

as with anything the instructions could be letter for letter with 1000 pictures.that still doesnt make up for common sense or mechanical ability.

Absolutely agree, but even if it stopped 10% of the mistakes people commonly make, it would be worth while, I would have thought.

But as you say, it is entirely up to the TT Store, nothing to do with any of us, or the forum.

Neil. :thumbsup::ride::bonk:

Just wondering how much it was total. Thinking I need to wheelie in 3rd.

I've found to get wheelies in 3rd the FCR, E Cams, Yosh Ti were needed.

Anything less just didnt work for me!

Just wondering how much it was total. Thinking I need to wheelie in 3rd.

11:54 gearing would do it!

11:54 gearing would do it!

ah yes, i forgot to mention my 15/44 gearing :thumbsup::ride:

Well I for 1 really appericate the walkthrough man,I like to have as much info as possible so I do everything right the first time.Just becuase I have done previous carb work does not magically make me able to to a FCR in a DRZ.Like I said before keep going please,Your info is greatly appericated.

I believe the answer is,, Remove the instructions so many people complain about. It is a set of parts, that when installed by a competent mechanic is complete and functional. The instructions were added as a bonus, not a replacement for knowledge of the installer. Add a bit of help, and folks want more.. Add more help with pictures, others will come and want more.. .. It never ends...

Bottom line,, The FCR kits are sold as that.. a Kit with all parts needed. The how to install is, has always been, will always be up to the mechanic. Failing that, a novice wrench can do a pretty good job with some basic knowledge and help from the very good TT'ers here in this very forum.

If it was up to me I would remove the instructions. Add a detailed Parts/ packing list including some recommended search words to be used here on TT and call it a day. Truly,, If the info on TT and the complete box of parts is not enough,, that user really should hire someone to do the install for them.

i agree with bronco 100%.

the fcr-mx development is really a on going process.

i made these instructions at 3am out of my head as favor.they were never intended to be as people want them to be.

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