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What would you do?

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I am having this issue with my riding. I just purchased a 10oz. Steahly FWW about a month ago and I have taken it out on 2 rides so far. This is what I have concluded. PRO'S: 1) Since I'm not good at clutch control with my bike quite yet (you can pull it all the way in and it still creeps and dies if you don't keep the revs above idle) the FWW helped me out with taking less work with the clutch. 2) Power has been mellowed out, and the top-end rush doesn't come on so strong and the FWW enhances the bike's traction in the mucky stuff. CON'S: 1) On hills, it is hard to get the revs up on the bike and keep them there. The bike doesn't like to stay in the high rev's, it tends to want to putt-putt. 2) The bike takes FOREVER (for a 125) to rev out and need to shift. I can count to 6 mississipi's before I need to shift the bike. It's ridiculous on logging roads, it's like I'm riding my old CRF100. If you were in my position, what would you do? Take out the weight or leave it in? My bike is in the shop right now getting repaired and I have the option to have them remove it for free. Any tips or tricks to getting used to a 125's powerband in trails (besides the obvious: riding the thing)?? Thanks in advance.

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Take it out. IMHO What else is there to say? It's only a 125 its a fast revving bike that ha the meat of the power in the high revs, if you can't get it to those revs sufficiently then your not going anywhere to fast.

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Try adjusting the clutch again, so it doesn't creep and stall. Practice using the clutch to keep the engine in the powerband.

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I'm afraid I agree with Michael N, it is only a 125 and so will never make a easy going chuggable trail bike. It is designed to be raced as hard as possible at full song and so will always struggle to make any usable power at low rpm. I was the same when i got my '06, i tried everything to make the power come on sooner (milling heads to raise compression, carb stuffers to make the Mik a 34mm) and only resulted in reducing the top end. The flywheel weight may help a little but a 10oz sounds a little much for a 125 and would certainly show the effects you mention of slower pick up and difficulty on hills. If you were serious about making the bike a good trail weopon have you considered a big bore kit?

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I have considered the bore kit, but the ones I've looked at have been a little pricey. $500-$800+ Cad.:thumbsup: What is a good company for big bores that won't cost me the a ton of money? BTW I got the "recommendation" for a 10oz. FWW from a friend's dad who has been riding 2 strokes for 31 years. I tried his son's '04 YZ125 with the 7oz. weight and it is almost the worst one to get because it doesn't really give you more traction and it still slows down the engine so there is no real benefit out of it. Also, I've heard many people say that the RM's clutch is "just like that" when I ask them why it creeps. I don't think this is right, my friends YZ NEVER does that; if the clutch is engaged then you do not creep, you stop. It makes it hard to manage the bike in tight stop-n-go trails becuase you constantly have to keep the rpm's up or else you stall. The FWW just makes that less noticeable, it keeps the bike running. Any ideas on how to properly adjust the clutch? (my manual is at the shop)

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Bikes that creep when the clutch is supposed to be disengaged are either not adjusted properly, or the clutch components are overly worn.

I like my clutches with about 1/8" of free play at the lever. Yours should have a knob on the perch for adjusting the free play; you may also have a turnbuckle-like assembly on the clutch cable for additional adjustment. I'd start with getting the free play right.

If that doesn't take care of the creeping, try rotating the arm (on top of the engine) a notch or two counterclockwise. Not too much - just a little to get more disengagement.

If that doesn't work, the basket may be badly notched preventing full disengagement.

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