Technique/replacing rear sprocket

Gents,

I've got a 48 tooth sprocket to put on the rear wheel of my 650L. Any tips on how to take the rear wheel off? My little brain is bent on how to do that without tipping the beast over:bonk:

If you are looking for somthing to use for a "stand" a 5 gallon bucket upside down or milk crate work great.

just make sure the bucket is steel or the crate is supported with 2x4s' inside(this is what i use) These bikes will slowly smash anything plastic.

Well since you mentioned tipping the beast over, here’s my method.

Now this may sound incredibly crazy but I have removed the rear wheel on my "L" numerous times by leaning the bike over on the kickstand and using a 21" 1x3 pine board to prop up the right side. It really does sound insane but it's the only way I do it anymore and have never worried about the bike falling over. For it to work safely you have to perform the following steps before leaning the bike over. Handlebars key locked pointing to the right hand side direction, the axle nut removed and the c/s sprocket removed (if you don't have enough chain slack when the wheel is pushed all the way forward for the chain to clear the rear sprocket). Once you've done those 3 things you can just lean the bike over on the kickstand and place the 21" board between the ground and the little protruding triangular thing welded on the right side of the bike just in front of the rear master cylinder. With the board in place the full weight of the bike will be supported by the front tire, kickstand and board. The rear tire will be plenty high up off the pavement to allow you to moved the entire axle and wheel assembly forwards or backwards. After that just take the chain off the rear sprocket and let it hang over the swing arm, put your foot under the tire to help with the axle alignment and remove the axle. Slide the rear wheel backwards in the swing arm and when the spacers clear the swing arm the tire is going to just drop down onto your foot. Install is essentially the reverse except for compressing the rear caliper piston which will allow plenty of room for the disk to get back between the pads when you raise the wheel back up to align it for axle install.

I haven't nor would I ever try this method on any surface that isn't somewhat close to level nor hard enough to ensure that either the kickstand or board wouldn’t sink. It sounds pretty shaky at best but it is actually pretty stable and the bike would have to take a serious bump while supported like this for it to fall over. Key points are the front wheel is locked to the right, the board you use isn't less than ¾” thick and making the chain adjustment and final torque of the axle nut happens after the bike is back on 2 wheels. And of course you’ll have to pump the rear brake pedal until your caliper piston is fully extended again.

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I don't like the idea of anything being capable of falling over while I'm working on it. For the rear wheel, I put my bike on my flat bed trailer and strap the front like I am going to haul it, then use a floor jack under the motor to raise the rear. The same can be done in a pickup bed. Even a cheap $30 floor jack with a piece of 2X6 over the head will work. The bike can't fall over this way. For the front, I lift it by way of a cherry picker and a tie down strap, but the same can be accomplished by reversing the bike position as listed above, (by strapping the rear instead of the front.)

-Joe

Some good ideas here on how to lift your bike, but ATV lifts are less than fifty dollars at places like Harbor Freight. One of the best "tools" you can have. Why take the chance of your bike falling over?

Some good ideas here on how to lift your bike, but ATV lifts are less than fifty dollars at places like Harbor Freight. One of the best "tools" you can have. Why take the chance of your bike falling over?

:thumbsup::ride:

sparklets bottle container if you can but if not get one of them atv lifts or a MC stand.

Or get you one of them wives with the Sasquatch hands to hold it up for you.

i use my floor jack and a solid board and then a cheap scissor jack on the other side works really good and seems really stable, i didn't want to lift my bike again, but before that i strapped it to the back of the truck, here at school i'm limited and very budgeted? hahaa

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Now I have a 600 which weighs a bit less, but I usually just pick it up and put it on a stand. I have one of those $50 lifts and they work too, but sometimes it's just easier to pick the bike up instead.

I'd be kind of afraid of that 1x2 stick method. In my experience I've had a lot of bike damage from the bike just tipping over.

"IF" you have access to a garage or carport with exposed ceiling joists, throw one end of your m/c tiedown over one and hook it to itself. Now take the other hook end and hook your footpeg. Do this to each side of the bike and raise her up via the ratchet on the tiedown. This works for the front as well by hooking the handelbars. I've even hung the BRP sideways in the air in order to soak the swingarm bolt with penetrating lube.....for weeks until it finally gave in to the lube and BFH!

The stick method works for multiple vehicles too.

No use in having more tools than you need.

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The stick method works for multiple vehicles too.

No use in having more tools than you need.

And you are implying that he is doing something wrong in that photo??

Plus it looks like he is welding on or near the gas tank... oh yeah, no problem there...

The stick method works for multiple vehicles too.

No use in having more tools than you need.

:thumbsup::ride::bonk:

Oh Jeeze I almost lost my breakfast laughing.

I don't agree at all that there is only one way gearloos, I think my way (been doing this for over 20 years now) is the easiet, quite fast and 100% safe.

I'm sure most everyone has garage doors with track rails and two tie downs so just do this, as long as your at home that is.

This is in line with Purcell69's method I'd say......

Takes less then 30 seconds, and of course height is totaly adjustable .......

Just make SURE no one opens the garage door!

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For the front just simply put one on bar with steering locked, push up on bar while pulling tie down and up it goes. I have 2 hooks in ceiling though for the front end if I want it perfectly straight and works well for a lot of other things too, like painting frames for instance...........

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.....and for a bike stand, go to a garage sale and find a old bar stool, cut it down, find a truck mudflap on the side of road for top layer of plywood platform, make base, install swivel wheels and you can now move it anywhere you desire + rotate either the platform OR the whole stand 360 degrees

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I used to use a couple cut down peterbilt mud flaps on my lifted toyota....yup, that was me..

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