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Eddie...Dynatek CDI?


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Is the non-programmable box set up on the same curve as stock only with an increased rev limit? It seems to me that the only way to benefit from changing the curve would be with fairly radical mods such as a big bore and/or stroker kit. I've got an '05 LTZ 400 and I've already done the 3x3 mod, K&N with an outerwear, rejetting, and full LRD exhaust and plan to add stage 1 Hot Cams when I can get my hands on them. Would the benefit of the programmable model be worth the added cost?

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I wouldn't want one like that anyway. If you don't know how to tune an ignition curve, you'll wind up decreasing performance. I'm not trying to build a super-fast drag quad, just a good all around machine that has about 25% more power than a stock unit.

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rev limiter........ ive seen 1 drz ever that actually made power to 11,000 and it was of mine that i built specifically to do so.for 99.9% of the drz's out there,raising the rev limit just lets you rev the bike till it slows down.

with my big motors the S/SM cdi works best with its 10,000 rpm limit.theres just no reason to rev them farther and its just harder on valve train parts.

if you do the math on how many times the valves open and close per second at 10,000 rpm and 11,000rpm you will see what i mean.

you need real valves and spring to go over 10,500 rpm safely.

ignition curves....... theres about 1hp to be had with 100 octane fuel on a drz with a modded curve.

there are some throttle response gains to be had.

now if you really want to buy a cdi box for a drz,than with out question the dyna box is the way to go.

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I don't know anything about the non-programmable CDI, but I can speak a little bit about the prototype programmable CDI

dyna knows their poop and it would, I assume, have the maps for most systems or something close

That being said, I agree with eddie. 99.9% of DRZ users will not find any noteworthy advantage to these ignition systems

The programmable setup is really nice if you have something truly unique that requires something out of the ordinary. The non-programmable setup would work well if you can't find a E model cheap

But if you're doing something like NOS or boost, there's no choice in the matter. You need one of these if you want to make the best of it. A very small category, to be sure

thats about the only reason you'd want to rev one that high also.....but as eddie said, the springs will limit it no matter how much boost/nos you run. I actually turned down my redline because of the issues with valve float and boost. It can be a nasty combo. Same with nos.

You need to build the system to handle it, if you're going to take advantage of such adjustments. Just slapping it on there does more harm than good if you don't facilitate the build in all aspects

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struggling to do the math ... how many times does the valve open and close at that speed ?

at 10K RPM's, the intake valves and exhaust valves open and close 5000 times per minute (83.3 times per second)

(2 revolutions per 4 strokes)

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I'm still using the 11K box that Procomm sent me as a test unit (Was it like 3 years ago now?)...It's the one that I found let's you go past 11K (Don't know if in fact there's a rev limit at all on it). Much to my surprise this Procomm box has lasted a long time with no problems (Unlike the first one I actually paid money for that lasted 5 seconds).

Once in a while I switch between this 11K box and another 10.5K box they sent and I prefer the 11K box which seems to have a different curve that favors the top end...I also prefer it to the stock S CDI box. Eddie do you think there would be anything to be gained with my current setup using 470 stroker, Stage 1 Hotcams, RHC valves/springs, Yosh Ti Trc? I agree that with the Stroker I rev the engine much less rpm as it's not necessary as it was stock.

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Thanks, guys. I think the non-programmable version will suit my needs just fine. One more question though. I understand that the spark is supposed to be hotter, so I'm wondering if there's any advantage to be gained by increasing the plug gap and /or changing to a different heat range when I install the new box, and if so, what plug should I try and how much should I increase the gap?

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if I may jump in hear

for what I have been reading for more power the spark coil/ CDI box is not the ishoo

if you have a 3x3 air box modd with rejet and full better flowing exhoust

than trying cams would be the next step

as far as I know the quod uses the "S" cams ment for passing emetions

I have a set of "E" cams in my DRZ400SM that truly helped the power but are not wiled enef to need better valves and springs

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The box is the issue in regards to more efficient combustion, which does translate into more power. I'm not looking to an aftermarket cdi as a solution for more power, but rather a part of a power adding package that will give me the most bang for the buck.

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The box is the issue in regards to more efficient combustion, which does translate into more power. I'm not looking to an aftermarket cdi as a solution for more power, but rather a part of a power adding package that will give me the most bang for the buck.

Bang for the buck does not include a CDI box, it includes better breathing and a big bore. FCR, 3x3, 440, Yosh pipe. End of puny power.

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A different CDI has other purposes...Like changing the power curve characteristics of how the engine runs at any given RPM. I can tell you that I greatly prefer the aftermarket CDI that I have to the stock S CDI. And it's not because it has an extra 1K at the top end. It's because it changes the engine's running characteristics. Just more H.P. is not necessarily what someobody is looking for when they decide they want to have a CDI with different mapping characteristics (Infact it may have nothing to do with more H.P. as is the case when people do different mappings for the CDI depending upon riding conditions.

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Is nobody paying attention here? Everyone has advice, yet nobody seems to understand what results I'm looking for. I asked a couple of questions regarding CDI boxes and all of the sudden people are telling me I need to do this, and do that without even realizing that I've already done some of these things and posted it previously (current mods are also in my garage). For anyone interested in what I want, read on. If not, here's where you stop.

Ok, what I'm looking to do is give my motor more in the mid to top end range power. I'm perfectly content with the low end torque it has. I'm not trying to build a racer - what I want is a solid, dependable, and durable quad for riding in about any condition imaginable short of sand dunes (we have a shortage of those in east tennessee). And I want to do this without spending a small fortune and doing any major engine mods. Aside to whats already been done to my quad, I plan to add stage 1 Hot Cams and they dyna non-programmable cdi box. I think these mods will help out with the mid to top end power that I'm after, and I won't bust my wallet in the process. If anyone has experience with a similar setup, I'd love to hear your experience, be it good, bad, or otherwise.

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