WR450 Project - Getting it Road Legal

WR450 Project - Getting it Road Legal - Brand New 2006 Model

So, first things first and slap in some grease in the swing arm and linkages. There is *some* in there from the factory, but not enough to keep out water so its well-worth doing this.



Oops whats that mallet doing there. Also its a good opportunity to check the chain tight spot (at about 4" compression as it happens), plus see how much clearance at max compression for fitting the tail-light:


Next-up fit the tail-light.


This DRC light is quite a simple unit, just three rows of LEDs for tail, brake and number plate lights. From the CRF project it draws very little power and is good 'n bright.


The tail-light goes on easily enough but the original light socket doesn't give a flat surface under the 'guard to bolt to. But it seems pretty sound.

And looks the part!


When fitting the hydraulic brake switch its best to drop out the front wheel and pump the pads nearly together. Then after fitting the switch opening the pads again pushes any air out the top into the master cylinder - no bleeding required.



The horn mounts on the rad bolt with plenty of space round it. Need to devise some means to either stop it ever coming loose or to stop it banging against the rad if it does....


The DRC handlebar switch fits in perfectly where the kill-switch was, which in turn is moved down the bars:


The indicator switch was removed and taped over to keep the cr*p out.


Some old handguards go on - not that pretty but do the job.


Wiring it all up takes a while. The original Yamaha wiring is very neatly arranged with mounting brackets for each main connector. Seems a shame to mess it up but what can you do! The wire from the main power switch provides a 12V dc source for the horn and rear lights. The headlight power stays routed directly from the alternator ( I assume its AC), but now goes via the handlebar switch.


The DRC light has just enough cable to wire the earth straight to the battery - one less to worry about! That leaves two longish wires to run along the bike for the tail and brake light, need to wrap them up in the near future.

The wires coming down the headstock are however wrapped up in plastic sheaving for some chaff-free action!


The other ends join up to the tail-light nice and cosy in the battery compartment:


There's a lot of plumbing on this bike!


You've got the AIS pollution thingy shown above, various oil pipes to and from the frame, an engine breather, a hot-start cable, Throttle Position sensor, rad overflow pipe to the tank under the rear mudguard (in green), plus another breather pipe coming back for that! (clear one next to it)

The carb comes out relatively easily, just the throttle cables tricky to get to, but removing the two bolts on the AIS makes it easy.


The AIS can be removed permanently with some suitable blanking plugs - a job for another day.

The carb is a right monster, or is it that I've got used to the tiny thing on the two-stroke trials bike?


The throttle stop is extra long from the factory to restrict power - the dealer had already chopped it but not quite enough! So cut another mm off it for good measure, and, hey, maybe another 0.01 hp as well. The stop is the screw the Allen key is on.


The carb came off to check what jets were in, and fortunately they are all the right ones (unrestricted).

The exhaust is also restricted from the factory and again this had been sorted by the dealer. But even so the exit pipe is quite small - perhaps one day I'll invest in another pipe, but the bike has plenty of go as it is without being loud, so its not critical.


And just to finish off, after a few hours use a quick check of the valves. Not too tricky but the top engine mount has to come off for access - 3 bolts, easy enough.


And that's that, exciting eh!

But is it any good? Next thrilling instalment coming up soon!


good stufff

who is your drc supplier wheelingcyclesupply.com?

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