Clark or James Dean, De-octopussing and jetting???

Hey guys,

I'm bored out of my mind and thought that this would be a good time to work on the bike. I relocated to Pennsylvania from North Carolina and the snow here makes it impossible to ride. Plus being from California, I don't do cold well :D

Here's what I've got going. I have a 99WR, WR Timed, air box lid removed, White Bros tapered header and E-Series (12 discs), White Bros a/f, trottle stop trimmed and ride at sea level to 1500'. I am going to de-octopuss and have the DVP needle, 100 pilot air, 65 start jet and 172, 175 and 178 main jets. I'll but whatever you guys think I might need.

Can I run the recommendations on the de-oct tech tips with my WR timing? What would be a baseline for jetting? I won't be able to ride in the dirt, but can roost in the neighborhood, to get a feel for things (read get plug readings).

I've also ordered some Thumper Rad guards, Works Connection frame guards and have some pretty blue vent hoses I bought at last years Budds creek Natl, when I met NH Kevin.

Help me spend some time in the shop so I can stay married :). I think I'm driving the wife nuts :D

Thanks guys



86TT225, 99WR, WR timing, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. Odometer and headlight removed. Moose hand and mud guards. YZ stock tank and IMS seat. Renthal Jimmy Button "highs" and Renthal Soft half waffle grips. AMA, SETRA.

My '00 WR never came with the the octopus. The modification should still work without a problem. Clark?

I've got a '99 WR400 that has the same mods EXCEPT for the exhaust - I run the stock exhaust with Thumper Racing tip. I removed the octopus last July and haven't had any problems. It certainly cleans up the hose mess. I run a 48 PJ, 172 MJ, 1.75 turns on the FS, with the stock needle. I have a DVP waiting to install.


Brian M,

Is your bike still WR timed? and you did change the pilot air and start jet as per the instructions?




My 99 was partially de-octopussed when I bought it used last year. The hoses and air cut valve were removed, but no jetting changes had been made, other than increasing the slow jet to a 45 and the main to a 180-I ride near sea level. I tried a 48 slow jet but it ran way too rich. It's still WR timed (I'm wrestling with whether or not to change that) and I recently stepped up the pilot air jet #1 to a 100 from the stock 75. That made a big difference.



My bike is WR timed - no intention of changing it. If I remember correctly - not guaranteed until I check which parts are in the tool box - I changed one of the two 'extraneous' jets. I bought the YZ version of each but only installed one of the two per Clarks recommendation. I'll check tonight to see what's in the bike. My bike starts 1-2 kicks EVERY time - if I stall it I use the hot start. I'll probably install the DVP this weekend but won't be able to test it out until next weekend at Reno with DRN.


I'm in PA and this is what I'm running Bill.

00 WR with stock pipe/no baffle/no airbox lid

PJ 48


MJ 172

Fuel Screw 1 1/2

UNI air filter

runs fine at 30 degrees


Remove the octopus per instrucitions. With the WR timing I would go with a 175 to 178 MJ a 45PJ, 1.75 to 2.25 turns out on the fuel screw and if you use the DVP probably the #4 or #5 from the top for starters. If you are near sea level then go to a 48PJ.


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