New to me 98 WR400f

This past week end I did some dealing and wound up with a 98 WR400f. the bike was dirty but cleaned up OK. Tires are fair , chain and sprockets are great . Oil looked good but changed it anyway and filter was perfect. It looks like the bike has been rode a lot but the big stuff had been taken care of. I asked about the valves and he said he had never checked them. That is the next thing on my list to do. So far I like it. It will smoke my DRZ. I have around $1000.00 in it. Do you guys think I did ok. Also anybody have a guess to the size of the aftermarket tank on it?









Looks good and if it's running well you have yourself a steal:thumbsup:

It runs great, motor is very strong. Starts on 1st kick almost every time. I think I will also have the suspension serviced to freshen them up.

I'd say at 1k you got a STEAL!

thats looks great, you gotta steal for sure

Definite steal - BUT - if he's never checked the valves, do yourself a favor and check them immediately. it may save you some serious cash.

I don't know how much you know about checking them etc., but if you need help, just let us know.

That tank looks HUGE - I would guess the only real way to find out how much it holds is to drain and refill it unless someone here can identify it.

Aside form needing a rear tire, it looks in great shape for a 10 year old bike.

Nice looking bike! I would definitely check the valve clearances and the cam chain tensioner, the tensioner has been known to be a problem.


steel of a deal, jeepers when i think of the money i spent.

fantastic enjoy!



While cleaning everything before checking the valves ( hate to work on anything that is dirty) I checked and the gray wire has not been cut yet. The outlet on the exhaust has a mod to help air flow and the throttle stop has been ground down to get full throttle and the air box top is off. I will check for the YZ timing when I am inside the valve train. I wonder if the WR timing is better for Alabama riding, tight woods or the YZ timing would be better? Should I wait until I get a jetting kit before i cut the gray wire?

looks like you done good . I have the same tank, I think it holds 4 gal. my WR is new to me also so...... how, besides suction , do you get all the oil out of these things.

get an '03 exhaust can for about 150 and you can dispense with the "starting drill" while you're in the valve train anyway.

not big deal when your fresh, but at the end of a long day of ST it can be a little tedious.

to get all the oil out, drain the bottom of the frame at the front (where it splits), remove the screen that goes up into the frame there as well and clean it.

Remove the oil filter cover and change the filter.

Pull the drain plug on the bottom

and last but not least, remove the external oil line you see under the oil filter, gravity drain it all for half an hour put it all back together and add the required amount of oil.

My 400 takes:

1.5 for frame and case drain

1.6 for frame, case and oil filter

1.7 for a complete oil change as above

how, besides suction , do you get all the oil out of these things.

it sounds to me as though you are not draining the oil from the frame and the sump... maybe I am wrong???:thumbsup:

You really did get a great deal. As far as the valves, given that it's a 400, you have SS valves, not Ti, and they should run just about forever. Still doesn't hurt to check them, but don't be surprised when they are in spec.

If you are concerned about increasing the mid-range hit going to YZ timing, remember, with the stock cams it's only about an hour to change it back. Decide what you like, and then order the appropriate auto-decomp cam (03 WR or YZ, depending on which timing you like best).

Finally, the tank looks to be either a Clarke or IMS, and should hold 3.5 gallons, smae as stock, just a better (narrower) profile. It also has a YZF seat (required to run that tank).

Ride the piss out of it!

Just checked the valves, they are fine. I also cut the gray wire. You can tell it is stronger now. I like this bike. I found out it is a 4 gal. IMS (YZ style) tank (slim)and seat combo.Unless I am wrong it may be the perfect 4 stroke , Wide ratio gearbox, lighting coil,holds over a quart and half of oil and stainless steel valves, and I think I can get a tag for it. Life is good!:thumbsup:

There are 4 places to open to drain oil completely.

Warm it up.

1: open refill cap, then open frame drain bolt.

2: open under engine drain bolt

3: open the bottom bolt (lowest) on the oilfilter cap

4: loosen hose clamp that goes from the frame to lower right side of engine, remove the oilpipe where it's fitted to the engine, then remove the oil strainer that the hose was fitted.

To really get the last drops of oil out you can lean the bike from one side to another.

Now you're completely empty and can remove the oilfiltercap and clean/replace oil filter.

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