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My XR650L Broke My Collarbone


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I *STRONGLY* believe the 650L/600R as a street/highway bike needs more weight up front which means lowering the front or raising the fork tubes in the triples. However, I seem to be the only one prescribing this on the forum, at least publically. Most say to do the opposite to increase rake and make the bike more stable. I personally believe this theory works on paper but falls apart when you apply it to a bike that already has too little weight up front. In other words, i do not think it is the rake causing the wobble. It is the weight. So fix the weight, not the rake. Perhaps it is the way I ride, or my height, but it works for me and I have never been in a tankslapper. Not even wobbles once I got that front end set up.

Short answer: try moving your forks in the triple, either up or down and likely you will get to a better setup.

This is of course assuming everything else is in good shape: rear sag dialed in, steering bearings, wheel bearings, front end is in perfect alignment (one tube isn't taller than the other, etc etc etc).

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I agree with the "weight is too high" assessment. While raising the forks may cause headshake, it would lower the weight a little. I guessing that the weight is still very high compared to street bikes. I'd like to see a comparison of center of gravity vs. axle height on the XRL vs. sportbikes or other streetbikes.

Thanks.

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that sucks Bro. I broke my collar bone on my old 600. I have had a few rear flats on my bike but have never been bucked off like you were. I will guess that while the bike was in a wobble your rear tire bkoke bead and caused the tire to fold over and buck you off. that is the only thing I can think of. Stay safe, hear quickly, and fix your bike quicker.

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I *STRONGLY* believe the 650L/600R as a street/highway bike needs more weight up front which means lowering the front or raising the fork tubes in the triples. However, I seem to be the only one prescribing this on the forum, at least publically. Most say to do the opposite to increase rake and make the bike more stable. I personally believe this theory works on paper but falls apart when you apply it to a bike that already has too little weight up front. In other words, i do not think it is the rake causing the wobble. It is the weight. So fix the weight, not the rake. Perhaps it is the way I ride, or my height, but it works for me and I have never been in a tankslapper. Not even wobbles once I got that front end set up.

Short answer: try moving your forks in the triple, either up or down and likely you will get to a better setup.

This is of course assuming everything else is in good shape: rear sag dialed in, steering bearings, wheel bearings, front end is in perfect alignment (one tube isn't taller than the other, etc etc etc).

Hey ASF..

Do you remember my wobbling XR600SM on SMJ??

I laced a new rim on the front end, trued the rear wheel and got both balanced..So basically the wheels are perfect now.Now i still have the wooble but only further on the speed range.After this mods the bike was staring to wooble about 100kmh and about 120kmh was the limit..too scary...now im only having it about 120kmh. Even less if im riding against the wind..

Notice that the bike on a D.S. setup didnt wobble at all!!!

And with my girlfriend on the bike i dont even have any wobble (135kmh max i ever tried on SM setup with her on bike)

In my bike, im starting to think its a question of rake.I have the forks raised about 2 cm on the triples and im gonna get them back on place and see if i get a better result.

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I do, and I've been watching your bike get better and better!

If you are sure that the bearings are ok, get some measurements on that fork. I am also curious what the rake is of the husky triples you are using. What model are they from?

Also, what numbers are you using for the sag? I run it a half-inch less than "race spec" for the off road 600 with my CRF front end, and I weigh 195lbs.

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I do, and I've been watching your bike get better and better!

If you are sure that the bearings are ok, get some measurements on that fork. I am also curious what the rake is of the husky triples you are using. What model are they from?

Also, what numbers are you using for the sag? I run it a half-inch less than "race spec" for the off road 600 with my CRF front end, and I weigh 195lbs.

thanks :ride:

the steering bearings are new as well the race bearings.The triples are from a KTM400EXC 01 i believe.they have a big "20" stamped on the upper triple.I think its athe offset number.

about the sag i cant deal with it as im not really familiar how to do it, and besides the rear spring nut is jammed and i cant move it..?

Im a really light guy, about 135lbs. with my girlfriend on the bike the wobble disappears.I think its the extra weight on the rear that lowers the rear...

More spring means less height, correct?

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well im running the clarke 4.7 tank with the corbin low seat the thing has been checked out over and over again and it still keeps happining. BUT it never did it with the factory rear sprocket went to a 48 instead of the 45 tooth now 75 mph wobbles like hell scary maybe Ill try putting the 45 tooth on again what does anyone think?

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thanks :ride:

the steering bearings are new as well the race bearings.The triples are from a KTM400EXC 01 i believe.they have a big "20" stamped on the upper triple.I think its athe offset number.

about the sag i cant deal with it as im not really familiar how to do it, and besides the rear spring nut is jammed and i cant move it..?

Im a really light guy, about 135lbs. with my girlfriend on the bike the wobble disappears.I think its the extra weight on the rear that lowers the rear...

More spring means less height, correct?

if u increase the rear spring preload it has the effect of raising the rear...this puts more weight on the front end...similarly if u raise the forks(lowers the front) it moves more weight on the front end...ether of these will reduce the shake as long as the problem is not the wheel.

when i weighed my scooter recently it measured 158lbs front and 175lbs rear...at constant speed the wind hitting the bike and rider probably shifts at least 20 lbs or more to the rear...

if u put the bike on a jack taking the weight off the spring, some penetrating oil and clean the threads...then a centerpunch and a BFH the shock adjuster will turn.

?

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if u increase the rear spring preload it has the effect of raising the rear...this puts more weight on the front end...similarly if u raise the forks(lowers the front) it moves more weight on the front end...ether of these will reduce the shake as long as the problem is not the wheel.

when i weighed my scooter recently it measured 158lbs front and 175lbs rear...at constant speed the wind hitting the bike and rider probably shifts at least 20 lbs or more to the rear...

if u put the bike on a jack taking the weight off the spring, some penetrating oil and clean the threads...then a centerpunch and a BFH the shock adjuster will turn.

:ride:

Hmmmm..i see your point..but if i raise the rear and lower the front the rake angle will decrease, having less stability...in theory, of course...

We have a dilema:confused:

about the rear spring, i already tried what you described without sucess..but might try one more time.A mechanic i know took a ride on my bike and said that the cause was a "tired" rear shock..but that is strange as 700km ago the bike didnt had this problem( with the stock wheels).I checked some after and before pics and the front end of the bike is way lower ( less rake angle).Could this be the cause.....?hmmmmm...im confused..

Thanks for the advices Kenzo:thumbsup:

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also check ur steering stem tightness the bars shud not flop side to side under their own weight but not so tight that u can't turn them with the back of ur little finger...

i believe technically the "rake" is fixed by the steering stem geometry...but i know wut u mean...the front to rear ride height...

i just looked at the Clymer Manual and it said to increase the rear preload and/or increase the fork oil level :ride:

?

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Ok, lots of different issues going on with everyone, first off take a look at this sag guide if you havent done it. It took me 20 minutes to set up my bike on my own. http://4strokes.com/tech/racesag.asp

Ok so zipper, I looked up a few values:

XR Stock Suspension -

Front: 285mm wheel travel.

Rear: 280mm wheel

KTM:

Front: 295mm wheel travel

Rear: 320mm wheel travel

I don't know where to get the rake/trail values from but try to find them for both bikes. That will at least give you an idea of which way to go. The rear travel is hard to use as a comparison due to the different linkage type but the fronts there is a 10mm difference in travel.

Can you tell if the wobble is coming from the front or the rear?? If it is more stable with 2 people on it either your shock bearings are bad or the spring you have on there is way too strong. Even the stock XR600 spring was meant for a 150lb rider. You'd need something well softer to fit your weight.

See what your sag is per that link above and let us know

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I find it wobbles bad when I sit too far back on the seat. If I hug the tank and lean a bit into the bars it doesn't shake as bad.

Sounds like the rear shock needs to be dialed in and if need be raise the front forks in the tubes too. Read that link I posted above and you should be sorted straight. FYI on wupermoto trim, I set my rear sag about a half inch less than even the race sag, so use those as starting points and keep going if it feels like it needs more after a test ride.

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Ok, lots of different issues going on with everyone, first off take a look at this sag guide if you havent done it. It took me 20 minutes to set up my bike on my own. http://4strokes.com/tech/racesag.asp

Ok so zipper, I looked up a few values:

XR Stock Suspension -

Front: 285mm wheel travel.

Rear: 280mm wheel

KTM:

Front: 295mm wheel travel

Rear: 320mm wheel travel

I don't know where to get the rake/trail values from but try to find them for both bikes. That will at least give you an idea of which way to go. The rear travel is hard to use as a comparison due to the different linkage type but the fronts there is a 10mm difference in travel.

Can you tell if the wobble is coming from the front or the rear?? If it is more stable with 2 people on it either your shock bearings are bad or the spring you have on there is way too strong. Even the stock XR600 spring was meant for a 150lb rider. You'd need something well softer to fit your weight.

See what your sag is per that link above and let us know

Ok:

KTM LC4 Supermoto 2004

Rake : 27 degrees

Trail: 99mm

front suspension : 265mm

rear suspension: 310mm

149kg

Honda:

Rake: 27

Trail:105mm

125kg

The wooble seems that come from the front end: the bike starts to wobble softly..like if the front end is too loose. With two people on bike never noticed ANY wobbling.Im not sure but i think the fork springs are too stiff for the XR weight.

The bike only wobbles while on gas on straights.When i close gas, the wobble simply ends.

The rear shock ball bearings has freeplay.But with bike on the ground cant even notice it.

Will try to move the spring this afternoon.

Thanks for the help.:ride:

UPDATE:

this afternoon i was able to loose the rear spring adjuster nuts.Gonna adjust the sag as soon as possible.

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  • 3 years later...

what about this guys, it stated "collarbone protection" http://www.btosports.com/p/ACERBISINFINITY

I need help badly here, pls give me your kind inputs thanks alot.

I broke my collarbone last dec, took me 6 months to be back on the bike and i cant afford to break it again. Ive used 3 different chest guards and none of them really protect the collarbone. What im looking at now is shoulder, collarbone and chest which i think this acerbis is by far the best. And i prefer to wear it under-jersey. Pressure suit is best but way too hot in my country, Singapore which is 35degree all year round.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Deflector.aspx

1-Thor Quadrant

2-661 pressure suit short sleeve

3-661 rouge

4-Acerbis Koerta or Infinity Roost Deflector or something else?

Thank you all for the time to read my silly post, appreciate all inputs.

Have a great day, cheers mate.

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what about this guys, it stated "collarbone protection" http://www.btosports.com/p/ACERBISINFINITY

I need help badly here, pls give me your kind inputs thanks alot.

I broke my collarbone last dec, took me 6 months to be back on the bike and i cant afford to break it again. Ive used 3 different chest guards and none of them really protect the collarbone. What im looking at now is shoulder, collarbone and chest which i think this acerbis is by far the best. And i prefer to wear it under-jersey. Pressure suit is best but way too hot in my country, Singapore which is 35degree all year round.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Deflector.aspx

1-Thor Quadrant

2-661 pressure suit short sleeve

3-661 rouge

4-Acerbis Koerta or Infinity Roost Deflector or something else?

Thank you all for the time to read my silly post, appreciate all inputs.

Have a great day, cheers mate.

My riding buddy was recently wearing one of those that had, what appeared to be, excellent shoulder and collarbone protection. He still ended up breaking his collarbone in a 55 mph crash.

There isn't much you can do to completely protect yourself in some accidents. We are pretty fragile when it comes to some things.

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I think you did all you could and seem to be an experienced rider. Sometimes bad chit just happens and down ya go. Makes me think of my L - I was o the freeway yesterday with mine at 65-70 with MT21's really noisy. I think when I wear them out, I am going back to stock rubba, as I hardly ever do much with the bike offroad.

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I'm a newby to this forum so I normally wouldn't post about something so quick. But I just had a flat on my Aprilia Tuono on Friday. All the guys are right, having had flats in and out of the dirt I can attest that a tubeless tire gives you a lot of warning. A tube tire with no rim lock will deflate fully in about half a second. If you are on the street running 50 you are screwed. Most of the flats I have had with my dualports XR650L, DRZ-400S involve the valve pulling out. A rimlock will at least keep the tire on. Hope you get to feeling better!? Oops Necro post! Sorry!

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