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Basic Oil Change walk through

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Publishers Note: This walk though is a repost of a thread started by Stupid-Rookie
Edited it for content and clarity, plus added a few notes here and there. But by and large it was his write up, just posted here in the FAQ to make it easier for all to find.
Thanks Stupid-Rookie

1. To start with assemble the tools for the job.

You want the following

  • Oil pan - large
  • 10mm Socket or wrench
  • 12mm Socket
  • 14mm Socket or wrench
  • Extension for sockets
  • Ratchet handle
  • 2 Liters (or quarts) of oil
  • New oil filter and O rings (old O rings are likely reusable, but you never know)
  • Paper towel and/or rags
  • Disposable gloves - personal preference
  • De-greaser



2. The manual indicates that the oil filler should be unscrewed. I unscrewed it, but left it in place to avoid anything falling in.


3. Now locate the frame oil plug as seen in the pic below.  Its the small 12mm hex one, not the larger banjo bolt on the oil line


Place your oil pan underneath this bolt. Using a 12mm wrench or socket undo the plug and be prepared for the torrent of oil that will flow as so:


4. Once the flow stops, position the oil pan so it will catch oil from the Frame plug and also the Crankcase plug shown here


Using a 14mm socket, undo the plug and once again be prepared for the oil to come out. (NOTE, how much comes out of the motor is depended on when it was ran last, remember the DRZ is a dry sump system, oil is stored in the frame tank, but will drain down to the motor if store for a few days.)

An extra step here is to balance the bike in the upright position to aid in the complete emptying of the Crankcase.

5. Now that the bulk of the oil has drained locate the Oil filter cover on the right side of the motor. Undo the three acorn nuts, oil will again drain out. (NOTE if you lean the bike over to the right before undoing those three nuts, most of the oil drained from the filter will go into the pan, and not all over your motor)


6. Take the Oil filter cover off taking care to remove the large "O" ring , it may stay stuck to the cap, or to the motor.

7. Remove the old filter, and locate the small "O" ring at the back. Again, it may stay stuck to the filter, so find it before chucking the filter in the trash.


NOTE: On a used bike, you may find the previous owner lost the o-ring when he tossed the old filter, and never even knew it. Nothing you can do, so replace it and go ride.

9. Take the new oil filter out of it's packet it should look like this


make sure there are no tears or other imperfections

If you notice "cracks" inside the oil filter cavity when you clean it out.... RELAX.... they are just casting marks... You will find them in the oil filter sump and just about any inside, non finished part of the case.
10. With the area clean of old oil refit the small "O" ring


then place the new oil filter in.


11. Now grab the large "O" ring and refit it to the underside of the Oil filter cover.

12. Refit the Oil filter cover, observing the arrow stamped on its surface to point up-wards.


13. Refit the Frame oil plug. It is tightened to just 13 FTLB.. so go easy on it. 


Reusing a OEM crush washer, or installing it upside down can have disastrous results
DRZ drain plug crack.jpg

14. Refit the Crankcase oil plug using a new, or undamaged sealing washer. The OEM Crush washer is a one time use item. Install is with the solid rolled surface toward the case.
When installed it deforms to seal the plug,, the problem is, it forms a bit of a wedge, and if reused, a few times, or over tightened even once,, it can and has wedged itself against the case and broken a hunk of the case out. Reuse this washer at your own risk. :prof: Tighten to just 13 FTLB,, just snug.... enough to seal the washer to case and plug

This is not something most will be able to repair..so it becomes very costly.
cracked case.jpg

As an alternative to the OEM tubular crush washer, you can use flat aluminum or copper sealing washers.
Available from most Auto parts places or a motorcycle shop.

15. Grab your funnel, any crap stuck on the inside will end up in your engine so make sure you clean it.


16. Place the funnel in the oil filler hole, and pour in 1.8L of your choice of oil.


(Note, dropping in a full two bottles , be it liter or quart is ok,, the few extra CC's will not hurt anything. The oil tank easily handles the little bit of extra oil)


17. Tighten up the oil filler cap


Spray the motor with some de-greaser, wash, and then start er up. Check for leaks...if none your done :thumbsup: Go ride :ride:

Publishers Note: This walk though is a repost of a thread started by Stupid-Rookie
I edited it for content and clarity, plus added a few notes here and there. But by and large it was his write up, just posted here in the FAQ to make it easier for all to find.
Thanks Stupid-Rookie :thumbsup:

EDIT:.... NOTE, cleaning the oil tank screen is a once a season deal, or post open engine repair.. Not needed every oil change.
Here is a good thread that covers the procedure.




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