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Replacing Fork Seals


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Are you talking about:

Removing the cap, springs,using an internal wrench while you twist the dampening bolt or use an impact gun, cleaning it with solvent, double cleaning it with a contact cleaner, removal of the internal tube from the external tube and finally removing the clip to remove the seal. Then reversing the process to carefully reinstall the new seal and fill it with the proper oil level, letting it sit and double checking the oil level because you need to work the air bubbles out.

If you are, the following tools would be helpful:

1) Shop Manual

2) Seal driver the fit the forks from motion pro.

3) 12mm(?) allen mounted in an impact wrench for the bottom bolt/dampening valve.

4) Plastic syringe and metric/US tape to measure your oil level.

5) Internal motion pro wrench good for KYB or Showa.

6) A good place to do it.

Start with a shop manual and you can decide if you want to buy special tools or have it done. bikebandit.com 🙂

Guys- Did I leave anything out?

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Why would you remove the base valve just to change the oil seal? All you need to do is:

1: remove the fork cap

2: pull out the spring

3: Slide the dust wiper down the fork leg

4: with a small flat blade screw driver remove the retaining snap ring (very important)

5. with the fork in your hands, colapse the fork a little then forcefully pull apart. It may take several tries.

There you have it, your fork is apart.

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Kleenex & Bill

Got it, I always disassemble to change oil. Sorry never considered the shortcut.

How do you install the new seal w/o a seal driver?

Reinstalling the seal over the bushing guide can cut the seal. The manual had a note saying stretch a piece of saran wrap over the bushing guide and slide the seal over it. I found out the hard way and the ends of the guide cut my seal like a razor leaving a line of fork oil down the tube.

There are a lot of ways to do maintainance, I tend to go a little deeper because of the exposure to mud and dirt we play in during the winter. It depends on how hard and where you the scooter.

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Before I put the new seal over the fork leg I remove the two bushings. Then I do the plastic wrap trick with a little fork oil on the seal and plastic wrap to help it along. For a seal driver I use a piece of PVC pipe thats about the right size. Cut in half like a seal driver of course.

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Burn, Ha! LOL. Not exactly... After sanding down the fork leg with #600 sandpaper I got almost all the nicks out of the leg. There is still a tiny groove in the leg, but it is very small. My suspicion is that the nicks tore the seal, but I thought I'd try to add some oil and see if it still leaked. I guess I need to get the full service manual, cause I couldn't even get the fork cap off! (Last bike I owned didn't have upside down forks, and was easy to get the cap off.) I finally ended up adding some oil thru the breather screw hole. Anyway to make a long story a bit longer, the seal is definately tore, it still leaks like a sieve, and it looks like it may be headed towards the dealer unless I can get my hands on the full service manual or get a dummys step by step walkthrough. Thanks to you both, but I guess I'm maybe a little more spodley than I thought. Bill

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Check Midwest Cycles for the manual. Also I loosen the top 2 bolts and let the lower triple clamp bolt hold the fork tube. I use a flat spanner and do not even have to remore the bars, but I've removed them before. Best of luck. With several bikes and shop rates I'm sure you will be working on them in the future. 🙂

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Check Midwest Cycles for the manual. Also I loosen the top 2 bolts and let the lower triple clamp bolt hold the fork tube. I use a flat spanner and do not even have to remore the bars, but I've removed them before. Best of luck. With several bikes and shop rates I'm sure you will be working on them in the future. 🙂

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