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Cracked case from broken chain, *pictures* please advise

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so my "case saver" was purely cosmetic apparently :thumbsup:

chain broke today and didnt play nice with my case. Bike is an '04 Yz250, I have full coverage on this bike with a $100 deductible. I'm wondering If I should claim it or try and fix myself :thumbsup:

How much would it cost to fix myself?

Will epoxy or weld help? Or do I need a whole new side of the case? etc etc so on. Please advise, thanks

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what kind of insurance do you have that it covers a chain breaking a case?The hole at the ignition isnt as bad as the one in your trans.

It looks to me that you could fix it yourself with epoxy.

However, that isnt the correct way. One day you are going to sell your bike and you are going to have to point out that the motor has been patched with epoxy.And it wont be worth as much.

If you only have to pay 100 dollars,get it fixed right.I would put a crank ,main bearings and match the transfer ports to the case halves while its apart too.

You could patch it now and fix it when your riding season is over

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what kind of insurance do you have that it covers a chain breaking a case?The hole at the ignition isnt as bad as the one in your trans.

It looks to me that you could fix it yourself with epoxy.

However, that isnt the correct way. One day you are going to sell your bike and you are going to have to point out that the motor has been patched with epoxy.And it wont be worth as much.

If you only have to pay 100 dollars,get it fixed right.I would put a crank ,main bearings and match the transfer ports to the case halves while its apart too.

You could patch it now and fix it when your riding season is over

I'll ignore retard's post above yours :thumbsup:

to answer your question, you can get comp and collision on offroad bikes in Oregon, I'm not sure about other states (I'm an agent) so I would just have to pay my deductible. I'm leaning towards claiming it, but I dont want to be out of comission for the 60 day summer that we get here in Oregon. Not sure how long it would take for the insurance company to get an adjuster out and and more importantly how long will it sit in the local shop, while they rack up the daily storage fee from the ins company :thumbsup:

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Watch out for those insurance people. One claim and they will drop you like a bad habbit.

Being a 2-s I'd replace the case myself and save the insurance for something major,like a stolen bike.

Sorry you popped in just as i wrote this.. Your an agent you probly know your status.

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no prob, they would still probly drop me, so I was thinking exactly what you said, save it for a really bad crash or a stolen bike.

So how does the expoxy procedure go? I have most of the piece that came off my flywheel cover. I have no idea where the shard of metal from the trans is?

also I see that I can get a used case on ebay for pretty cheap, do you have to buy the YZ cases as a pair, or could I just get the side I need?

Also if I can get a cheap case and just replace it, would I have to remove the motor from the bike? I would assume so, also what else would I need? Such as gaskets, specials case tools etc? I've done a top end but never touched the bottom

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Wow. bad news eh? I would definitely epoxy it with JBWeld and then tear it down in December or so. You've too many months ahead of you to be down. I was down for two months on my repair. It takes SO long to get parts cheaply and then finally tear everything apart amongst my schedule.:thumbsup:

I don't see why you couldn't just buy one case half rather than both. You'll need a case splitting tool and to watch that video at Rocky Mountain on how to do it. Of course while you're in there you may as well do the bottom end with a new crank, bearings, rod, etc from either Hot Rods or Wiseco. And then there's the WR 3-4-5 mod too.:thumbsup:

Epoxy and ride!

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i like your new avatar better :thumbsup:

I have someone who can weld it for me, that would be better than doing the epoxy.. yes??

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I had a similar issue, I used a coke can and quick drying j b weld. It is still holding after 5 years.

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I had a similar issue, I used a coke can and quick drying j b weld. It is still holding after 5 years.

if your serious that is awesome :thumbsup:

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Without knowing how cheap the case will be, its hard to say.

My first thought was "claim away" At shop labor rates and full parts cost, you'll get your money back. If they cancel you, sign p for Progressive online insurance.

I signed up for progressive online hoping only for fire and theft insurance. They offered that for 75.00 per year. Lowering the deductible to 100.00 , adding collision, towing, and raising the coverage amounts still made it 75.00 per year. I would like you to file a claim to see if it works. Its an odd angle to think of them covering a part failure, but I believe you owe it to humanity to collect if your covered. Back in my street riding days, I always used State farm. They wanted top dollar for the premiums, but would pay off like a slot machine when needed.

They ended up being the smart one as I have paid them back many times over throughout the years.

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I'm having post deja vu Rcannon :thumbsup:

Comprehensive covers things like me hitting a tree etc..

It's looking more like going the weld route and then I can tear it down in the winter. The summer is too damn short in Oregon for me to waste it all working on my bottom end.

So Welding would be preffered over jb weld or epoxy right...?

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Back in my street riding days, I always used State farm. They wanted top dollar for the premiums, but would pay off like a slot machine when needed.

as did i.

they paid me all but purchase-160 when my fzr600 was stolen. then wanted to drop me after unless it was in a garage. funny how they thought they could drop my bike and me not take my cars with it to another brand. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

clean that area off good with 91% alky. jbweld it. get new cases when the snow falls and go through the whole bike taking your time. i bet you need a new lower shock bearing and maybe some swingarm bearings as well. change the oil in the forks and shock.....

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It's for real, We did the repair out in westwater just west of rabbit valley. You know those kick butt single track with the sand dunes, and tall grass , Well my kid found a little rock that got caught in the chain. It will be fine with the j b weld, wait till you price out the alternative. Plus by the time you ream that bike a little more the resale wont be much different.

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as did i.

they paid me all but purchase-160 when my fzr600 was stolen. then wanted to drop me after unless it was in a garage. funny how they thought they could drop my bike and me not take my cars with it to another brand. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

clean that area off good with 91% alky. jbweld it. get new cases when the snow falls and go through the whole bike taking your time. i bet you need a new lower shock bearing and maybe some swingarm bearings as well. change the oil in the forks and shock.....

yea I just changed out my wheel bearings, did a top end 2 months ago and just serviced all the linkage and swingarm bearings. I also recently (1 month ago) took my forks and shock in to get get the fluid swapped. So everything else should be in pretty good order.

So could you walk me through the JB weld procedure Moab..

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yes it was, the plastic cover thats sits over the case saver right?

Interesting.:thumbsup: When I bought my 07 the PO yanked this part and told me not to put it back on because it only takes on small rock to wedge between the chain and it causing the chain to snap and then potentially what happened to you (yank part number 5 but keep part number 6 shown in the diagram below). Gonna leave mine off then.:thumbsup:

You'll also have to buy a clutch basket holder tool and remove the clutch altogether at which time you may want to put in new plates there. This is adding up fast (lost time and parts+tools prices). I'd say claim it or coke can it and jbweld till the wheels fall off then sell it at that point.

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yes it was, the plastic cover thats sits over the case saver right?

Actually, I believe there should be a steel counter shaft sprocket guard behind the plastic cover as well. I typically remove the plastic guard, because it's really meant to keep mud out, and it doesn't do a good job of that. However, I keep the the steel guard behind the plastic that's meant to prevent case damage in the event the chain breaks or jumps the sprocket.

Did you have both of them on?

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So Welding would be preffered over jb weld or epoxy right...?

I talked to a guy about welding my crankcase cover when I hosed that 03 I had.:thumbsup: He said it was pot metal and it would be difficult to weld perfectly (he's a machinist in the Navy). He guaranteed his work but felt I'd be back to him for a re-weld for sure. This is the same guy who felt RTV gasket sealer wouldn't work so he's very conservative in his approach. For me, buying the parts was only slightly more than his weld job. He's in Bremerton if you're interested.

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