Handlebar height?? Help

Hi to all,

I am looking to do a sub-mount with my scotts steering damper. I am 6'3" and find the stock position of my Yamaha wr 250f a little low especially when standing. I hear the sub-mounts raise the bar about one inch. Is that enough? Any thoughts (pro-con) about going higher? Is there a control factor here? If I go higher are there any out there who could recommend a bar-bend for me? I am 50 and have been riding about 2 years. I ride mostly woods and trails--in Maine--power-line stuff rocks and some tight technical stuff as well--thanks, Brian

well i wouldnt recomend raisers as they bend easily hey....what i would do if i was you i would get atv bars...the protaper ones..thats what all my friends that do FMX use...and the higher the bars from the mount the worse the turning in theory anyway,for woods riding you would be fine with higher bars as you could stand comfortable the whole ride long.....What i did on my mx bikes is put a slightly higher bend bar,it raises only 1inch...these are normal bars not atv...as i ride mx and cant use too high bars

Keroab, Which year WR do you have?

InHumanForm- Do a web search and see what the Scott sub-mount looks like. That mounting style requires a higher bar mount to clear the damper.

That mounting style requires a higher bar mount to clear the damper.

The SUB mount doesn't require higher bars, it results in the bars being an inch higher. The riser is incorporated into the mount, and on the strength question, the Scotts risers are tied together in a single piece for additional strength and stability.

At 6'3", ignoring the damper, I would recommend the Windham bend, which is roughly an inch higher than the WR stock bars. These not only raise the hand position, they move it significantly forward at the same time. If it were me, I would ask Scotts if they would build you a SUB mount that would move the stock bars 20mm or so forward, then start with the bars you currently use. Moving the bars forward makes a major difference in the standing position by allowing you to stand in a more relaxed upright posture and have the bars far enough in front of you that you can maintain control.

I run risers on one of our YZs. I bought them from Rocky Mountain, their store brand. Comes with several pieces that you can add or remove to get the height right. We run a bar with fairly flat ends and rotate it forward to get more room that way too. That bike's been on the ground many times and none of those parts have bent or failed. Radiators, radiator braces, plastics, levers, etc have had to be replaced but not the bar or the risers.

thanks for all the replies---I have been looking into the scotts sub-mount set up. Looks high quality. I like the idea of using the bars I already have with the scotts mount foreward a bit. Is the inch gained enough height? thanks-Brian

The Windham bend has a 99mm rise, whereas the OEM bars are close to 80. An inch (25.4mm) is about right, I'd say.

One more question for grayracer---would the windam bend PLUS the scotts sub mount be too much height? (just curious) Thanks again for all your help--Brian

It would be too tall for me, yes, but consider that I am 5'10", and I ride with the Windham bend, so....

My son is your height, and uses them as well. He loves them. But based onmy experience, you could go higher. Depends on you.

You could easily enough try your current bars on the Scotts mount, then try something else later if they don't seem right.

I would suggest if you want higher bars do what my dad and i did. My dad is 6'4, and he uses the Protapers Pastrana freestlye bars or the ATV high bars, Which is what i use. They make standing a lot easier. Plus they are higher which is what you want. You'll have to buy a fat bar mount though.

Keroab, Gray racer is giving you the best wisdom. I am 6' 1"" I have used the undermount with CR high bars they were a little high for me. I have a long body and short legs. Your body frame matters. If you want to raise the Scotts undermount higher you can by useing washers and longer 12mm allen bolts. You may have to grind the heads of the bolts to a D shape or two flats depending on the bolts scotts used. At best if you do not like the washer shims it will give you a test platform. Yes and moveing the bars forward will also save your backside because you will not be sitting on the thin rear part of the seat.

Thanks a lot---My frame is long legs and shorter torso---the idea of the submount (scotts) and trying my own bars first sounds like the best first step--Brian

not to beat this thread to a pulp or anything, but my present (stock bars ) are 7/8" and the scotts mount can be the stock size or 'oversize'. Are there advantages to the oversize bars that would make it smart for me to go with them? I just do not want to buy the 7/8" mount and wish I got the oversize. Also scotts mentioned the sub mount plus a change to the Carmichael bend might be a good choice. Any final thoughts?:ride: ---Thanks again Brian

OS bars weigh a little less, and there's more room on top of them for cables and such to run unencumbered. But the biggest advantage is that they are slightly less rigid at the ends due to the lack of a brace, and that lets them absorb some of the rod shock that might otherwise be transferred directly to your hands and shoulders. Get the oversized mount, and if you want to try your 7/8 bars for fit, you can shim them in using strips of 1/8" soft aluminum.

Like above, I think you can go higher. I've got a friend who went 4" higher at bar end AND went with 1/2" lower footpegs. I'm almost standing while seated on his, but the transition is very easy. I used 1" risers on mine and a Guts tall soft seat foam and like that combo but I'm 6'1". This guy set me up right. BTW, the fasteners he supplied are stainless!


what a great site!! thanks again--BK:applause:

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