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I installed the Bajadesigns DC Conversion and followed the instructions but my battery is still not charging. I contacted Bajadesigns and they sent a new regulator and still I am not charging. I must say Bajadesigns has excellent customer service. So now I have taken the stator out and double checked my work and it is exactly as shown in the instructions provided. Below is the link to stator mod I did.

http://www.bajadesigns.com/2005%20Web%20Site/PDF%20Files/Stator%20Instructions/KTM%20K3%20Stator%20Mod.pdf

Is it possible I burned out my stator when I soldered the wire as directed? Sorry for the dumb question but my electrical skills are junior high level at most. I have been soldering for years with my RC cars and feel confortable with the soldering.

Please help.

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045MTK,

Just curious but in the PDF it says:

Once the stator has been

modified, the lighting system must be powered via DC from the battery.

The stock headlight connector can no longer be used as a lighting power

source. Using the stock headlight connector will result in the battery

discharging.

Could that be the problem?

Also, have you checked the voltage coming out of the stator?

I'm not implying anything, just throwing out ideas.

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Thanks for the ideas. I will double check again but the Bajadesigns regulator came with a fix for the headlight. I checked the current coming from the stator (yellow & white) wires and no current showed up on my voltmeter. I took out the stator to see if possibly the wires disconnected but they are still connected. I am planing on unsoldering my connections and just redoing to make sure.

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Make sure you didn't damage any of the wires that are wrapped around the

poles. Shorting any of those would result in reduced or no output.

Let us know what you find.

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Whats the point of going to a DC conversion kit?

2 circuits into 1, more juice for accesories (headlight), basically- still the stator can only do so much - this just changes how energy is managed- it allows you to use more amps towards lighting.

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Make sure you didn't damage any of the wires that are wrapped around the

poles. Shorting any of those would result in reduced or no output.

Let us know what you find.

Other than the obvious broken wire how else would I be able to tell if I damaged? I was careful when I soldered and moved copper wires as little as possible. I am going to take a pic of my stator and post. Maybe I am missing something.

Thanks.

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2 circuits into 1, more juice for accesories (headlight), basically- still the stator can only do so much - this just changes how energy is managed- it allows you to use more amps towards lighting.

Exactly what DRZ said. Plus it gets rid of the flickering headlight.

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Did you check continuity between white and yellow wires?

Sorry for this dumb question but what is the easiest way to check this? My skills with electrical are junior high level at most.

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Continuity means it is one (no resistance or opposite of an "open circuit") you need to check at the stator- its in your instructions- this is how you inspect your work- you can check with a Multimeter (voltmeter)- on OHMS setting- one leed to the yellow connection one to the white (while not connected to the regulator)---the solder job needs to be clean (no solder spill)... that could cause a short- messing the job up..

By the way you mentioned that you did not get volts when you put a leed to yellow and leed to white- you shouldn't have because it's like conecting a the same thing to itself- should be 0... yea? like pos leed from battery and another leed to the pos will show nothing but if you connect a pos and a neg you have something-

its either your conversion or your wiring- I would go back over the job and check for errors- here's a link that has multiple links and info where a guy had a simular problem so he thought- he was still at the checking stage... didn't run it yet. Stator DC conversion question tt thread looking at different refferances and what not might rattle an idea

good luck:thumbsup:

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2 circuits into 1, more juice for accesories (headlight), basically- still the stator can only do so much - this just changes how energy is managed- it allows you to use more amps towards lighting.

Ummm I dont have a stator, I have a generator. Puts out 150 watts stock, thats what the diagram for my bike says.

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Ummm I dont have a stator, I have a generator. Puts out 150 watts stock, thats what the diagram for my bike says.

Excuse me I am mistaken- there is 1 ktm in California that this does not work on- you must have got that 1 DP, because that bike has a generator on it- for everyone else though continue as normal you can do the DC mod if you choose to. :thumbsup:

actually the stator is a part of a system that makes up the generator-

just semantics DP that's all it is- you have to translate sometimes-

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I must be an idiot, so the guy at my local dealership told me about the Generator. I am sure I am nothing special LOL. So since my system puts out 150 watts do I still need to upgrade? I am now confused LOL.

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I must be an idiot, so the guy at my local dealership told me about the Generator. I am sure I am nothing special LOL. So since my system puts out 150 watts do I still need to upgrade? I am now confused LOL.

that 150watts is not available to your headlight- by design- I don't have the numbers of what exactly is (I'd guess about 60wts available between tail and headlight) - but remember the system is split ac/dc- stock only the ac is available to your headlight -once the system is taxxed your headlight will dim no matter what wt headlight you have. People have put on 55wt headlights and found that the system gets taxxed versus the stock 35 wt- IN AC the lights dim- in DC there's more available but the lights won't dim- it will drain your battery- which some people find with fans. LED tail can save a few amps for your headlight too.

So it depends on how much you really want/need usable or great lighting for night riding- I don't think too many have found anything that works great without stator upgrades to match the needed demands. It is highly subjective too- baja versus just trying to get home.

Example. oN my bike I have a high low off (55/35)headlight (no dc conversion) stock tail light with braklight switch and a horn wired. With the brake light on and the high on the high will dim- I don't do much night stuff- (just trying to get home category). I could probably get an LED tail and be a little better off- Or I could do the dc conversion with my set up and not have to worry about draining the battery- if I wanted say a 100wt bulb I would do an upgraded stator. But Like I said, I don't need the best lighting-

hope that helps-

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that 150watts is not available to your headlight- by design- I don't have the numbers of what exactly is (I'd guess about 60wts available between tail and headlight) - but remember the system is split ac/dc- stock only the ac is available to your headlight -once the system is taxed your headlight will dim no matter what wt headlight you have. People have put on 55wt headlights and found that the system gets taxed versus the stock 35 wt- IN AC the lights dim- in DC there's more available but the lights won't dim- it will drain your battery- which some people find with fans. LED tail can save a few amps for your headlight too.

So it depends on how much you really want/need usable or great lighting for night riding- I don't think too many have found anything that works great without stator upgrades to match the needed demands. It is highly subjective too- baja versus just trying to get home.

Example. oN my bike I have a high low off (55/35)headlight (no dc conversion) stock tail light with brake light switch and a horn wired. With the brake light on and the high on the high will dim- I don't do much night stuff- (just trying to get home category). I could probably get an LED tail and be a little better off- Or I could do the dc conversion with my set up and not have to worry about draining the battery- if I wanted say a 100wt bulb I would do an upgraded stator. But Like I said, I don't need the best lighting-

hope that helps-

That's a good explanation...

For my '07 525EXC, I think the stator is only like 100-watts...;)

The stock headlamp would dim and flicker when I used the brake light and/or

the turn signals. That's fine in the daytime, but at night, it was really

annoying.

Simply replacing the stock tail light and turn signals with LEDs, cleared up

the problem.

DP, did you find out what the problem was?:ride:

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I replaced the rear license plate with the SICASS Racing piece. I am now in the market for the TrailTech x2 light. Its the HID light that looks pretty stock, but has the two lights. I am on the waiting list and they said I would need the S-3800 or something wiring kit. Should I also do a stator upgrade at the same time?

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Continuity means it is one (no resistance or opposite of an "open circuit") you need to check at the stator- its in your instructions- this is how you inspect your work- you can check with a Multimeter (voltmeter)- on OHMS setting- one leed to the yellow connection one to the white (while not connected to the regulator)---the solder job needs to be clean (no solder spill)... that could cause a short- messing the job up..

By the way you mentioned that you did not get volts when you put a leed to yellow and leed to white- you shouldn't have because it's like conecting a the same thing to itself- should be 0... yea? like pos leed from battery and another leed to the pos will show nothing but if you connect a pos and a neg you have something-

its either your conversion or your wiring- I would go back over the job and check for errors- here's a link that has multiple links and info where a guy had a simular problem so he thought- he was still at the checking stage... didn't run it yet. Stator DC conversion question tt thread looking at different refferances and what not might rattle an idea

good luck:thumbsup:

Thanks. I remember seeing that post. I checked for continuity with my volt meter from the following locations:

1. Connector - white and yellow wire

2. White wire soldered on stator body to unsoldered copper wire where BD wire is to be attached

3. Same as 2 above except with soldering complete. I tested from both sides of soldering.

All above had continuity only with each other. I checked to see if any of the wires noted above had continuity with the stator body and non had continuity. I ended up unsoldering everything and redoing and checking again. I feel 99.99% confident I did exactly as the instructions dictated.

So now my question is when I hook everything back up and start the bike which wire/wires should register 12 volts with engine running?

Last question is how can I test the regulator? I am on my second one so I HOPE I did not get a second faulty regulator. It is possible but I do not know how to test. Please help.

Thanks everyone for the input.

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Ok so I just read that to test my regulator I should start the engine connect my voltmeter to the battery and if it registers less than 12.6 volts I have a weak battery. It then calls for throttleing the engine to raise the rpms a few 1000's and the the voltage should increase but get cut off somewher above 13 volts and stay there. Is this true?

When I installed the new BD regulator and new battery I connected my voltmeter to the battery with the bike idleling and had 12v's+. I proceded to disconnect the battery terminals and connected the voltmeter only to the positive and negative wires and noted a very small voltage on the voltmeter. What I DID NOT DO was throttle the engine. So now I am thinking that if what my first paragraph says is correct maybe my bike was charging and I am just a bonehead. Dam now I have to wait until tomorrow to button everything up and try again. Hopefully someone can confirm what I wrote above.

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Ok so I just read that to test my regulator I should start the engine connect my voltmeter to the battery and if it registers less than 12.6 volts I have a weak battery. It then calls for throttleing the engine to raise the rpms a few 1000's and the the voltage should increase but get cut off somewher above 13 volts and stay there. Is this true?

;)

Yea, at this point looking back from what you say now- as to how you came to the conclusion your battery was not charging--- I think you might be ok...

maybe...

if you tested the stator and that's good- button that back up-

the regulator fails in 2 ways-

under regulates..or

over regulates

a bike battery discharges just sitting- so we like to keep them hooked up to a tender or ride them weekly-

assuming the battery is in good shape/ state of charge- it should read 12.5 +, not running,

while running- with assessories off we should be 12.5-13.5

while running- without assessories on we should be 12.5-13.5 (if not I'd say we are stressing the system... or there's a problem

as far as this test goes for whether the regulator is bad- if you get 14.5+ I'd say its Under-regulating- if under 12 its Over-regulating.

When I installed the new BD regulator and new battery I connected my voltmeter to the battery with the bike idleling and had 12v's+. I proceded to disconnect the battery terminals and connected the voltmeter only to the positive and negative wires and noted a very small voltage on the voltmeter. What I DID NOT DO was throttle the engine. So now I am thinking that if what my first paragraph says is correct maybe my bike was charging and I am just a bonehead. Dam now I have to wait until tomorrow to button everything up and try again. Hopefully someone can confirm what I wrote above.

what's a small voltage- ? was the new battery not properly charged- all by itself it should be at least 12.5+

So looking at this simply from this angle- as to where you thought you had a problem- if your bike is running and the volts are 13+ it would mean its chargeing the battery right- so then your good. from a stator mod perspective not a crap battery perspective. Check your battery at this point - I think, put a charger on it tonight and see if its above 12.5 in morning...

better or worse (no Im not an eye doctor) how bout' now ... now, orrr now. :ride: hope this has helped

?

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