ACCT to MCCT question

Hi guys,

Just about to install the MCCT to my 2000 DRZ E and wanted to first check for cam chain wear.

I'm assuming it shouldn't be bad as the 2000 version ACCT didn't have the ratchet mechanism (also it's only done about 2500 miles).

I was thinking that before I remove the the ACCT (after finding TDC) I should first remove the nut or bolt from the back of the ACCT. Then when I remove the ACCT this will show me where it is current set and how much travel is left.

Is this a meaning full test wrt cam chain stretch?

Is this a meaning full test wrt cam chain stretch?

Not really no, it may give a rough idea but that is all.

The only quick test is to check the timing marks.

If the marks line up perfectly, the chain is probably ok, the further out the marks are, the more stretch the chain has.

Also the chain is pretty cheap, and an easy job to replace, and as you really should be checking the valve clearance, and doing the P/Nut loctite fix anyway, and that is all you need to remove to replace the chain.

On the other hand if you leave it till the chain breaks, or the P/Nut comes loose you wil have a much bigger and more expensive job to do.

Neil. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

I'm actually planning to leave the P/nut for now as I haven't got the tools or gaskets plus she doesn't need an oil change at the moment. I just really wanted to get the ACCT changed as it's a know problem for my year of bike.

Not saying the other things aren't known problems, it just seems to me that the MCCT is a lot easier to do than the other things and is much more likely to cause an issue. Next oil change the covers are coming off and all the known issues will be addressed. P/nut, stator bolts, stainless C/shaft spacer and then thread lock the sprocket splines.

Also while I'm here is it possible to do the rear suspension shaft/bolt without doing the full strip down?

Again the full strip down is coming but for now I'd just like to free this bolt and grease it.

MCCT is a good start!

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