Electrical connectors and plug source.

Im looking for some OEM style connectors so I can keep my original side stand and turn signal wiring intact. Im working on some handguard mounted turn signals (running lights?) and dont want to splice the turn signal wires, same goes for bypassing the sidestand. I cound just buy complete wiring and hack it up but that seems like a waste. Thanks. You guys rock.

If you are disabling the sidestand switch, do it the proper way and also eliminate the relay. One less thing that can go wrong, plus it'll save you at least 20 grams off the bike! :thumbsup:

I have seen the instructions posted here, on the DR thread on Advrider and in the DR Yahoo groups.

If I remember correctly the turn signals use fairly standard bullet connectors (although I might have my bikes confused). You should be able to get them from almost any automotive parts house.

This was posted a while back by PeteC. and is what I did to bypass both the clutch and side stand safety switches along with the relay. This way if you decide to put the bike back to stock, you can just plug everything back together..


There is more to bypassing the starter/side stand interlock system

than just bypassing the clutch switch & jumping the side stand switch

wires. There are other components in the system you want to

eliminate so they will not be a problem if they are left in & fail

later. Suzuki's system on the DR650 is pretty simple compared to

some others. The following components are what is used in the

system: The clutch lever switch, side stand switch, neutral switch,

side stand relay & a double diode set for the side stand relay &

neutral light. The engine kill switch is also involved in it. The

system works by controlling weather or not there is 12 volts supplied

to the CDI unit (capacitive discharge ignition unit), the CDI unit

needs 12V to operate. The 12V comes from the side stand relay to the

ignition kill switch & then to the CDI unit. The 12V power to the

starter solenoid through the clutch lever switch also comes off the

ignition kill switch, that's why the starter won't work if the kill

switch is pushed in or the side stand is down with the bike in gear.

The 12V is supplied to the ignition kill switch when the side stand

relay is energized. The side stand switch & the neutral switch

control weather or not the side stand relay is energized by providing

or not providing a ground for the side stand relay's operating coil.

If there is no ground the relay is not energized. The ground is

provided when the side stand is up, side stand switch is closed, or

if the transmission is in neutral & the neutral switch is closed.

The neutral switch also operates the neutral light & that is the

reason for the 2 diode set, to keep the two functions separated.

The reason you don't want to just cut & splice the wires from the

side stand switch is that you will be leaving the side stand relay in

place & that is just something that can fail leaving you with a bike

that won't start. To do the bypass eliminating what is not needed do

the following: Unscrew the side stand switch & disconnect it at its

plug located in the area behind the gas tank. No need to cut any

wires. Next go to the side stand relay located on a post on the

frame just to the left of the CDI unit just in back of the battery &

remove it. This is where you make the connection that bypasses the

relay & permanently provides the 12V to the ignition kill switch.

There are 4 wires going into the connector for the side stand switch,

2 orange, one green & one orange with black tracer. You want to make

a jumper that connects one of the orange wires to the orange with

black tracer. This will require getting small male connectors or as

I did make a bridge connector from sheet aluminum (thin like trailer

aluminum) that you plug in the connector. Securely tape the

connector so it can't short out. I also removed the 2-diode set that

controls the neutral light. You don't need to do this; if the diode

failed you just wouldn't have a neutral light. The diode set is

plugged into a connector located in the area just behind the gas

tank. Make a jumper that connects the blue wire (from the neutral

light) to the blue with black tracer wire (to the neutral switch).

Again here I made a jumper out of sheet aluminum. Securely tape the

connector so it can't short out. To eliminate the clutch switch just

go to where the clutch switch wires connect to the bikes wiring

harness behind the headlight fairing. Disconnect the wires & plug

the harness side wires together (male to female connectors). You now

have bypassed the starter/side stand safety switch system eliminating

the items that are not needed. Remember you now can start the engine

with it in gear & the clutch engaged & you can drive off with the

side stand down, both of which could get you hurt or killed so do

this at your own risk.


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