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Loose primary nut (yes another one!)

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Ok locked up the stator side with a strap wrench (I've got a kicker so no 26mm nut to use) and put a socket on the primary nut, it came off way too easily about 20ftlbs no more 🙂 The question is should I go any further is the nut being just a little loose likely to have caused any damage? The bike was running fine, - this is just maintenance - its a bit rattly but then its a 2000 bike with an undisclosed amount of miles!

Dan

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I sure am! Am I right in thinking theirs another woodruff on the gear behind the primary gear and do I need to be careful not to put anything out of alignment?

(Ive searched but its difficult to piece it all together!)

Cheers

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Ok just has a quick look at the washer that sits behind the primary nut, there's obviously been some movement - unless I caused it when I undid the nut. More investigation required?!

washer.jpg

Dan

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Ok next pic, the primary woodruff key, is a groove like this normal? I'll get another anyway. Where is the balancer shaft pin that I should be checking?

Cheers Dan

woodruff-2.jpg

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As long as you do not rotate the engine, you will be fine. Slip the primary gear off, carefully remove the key. Does it look ok? I beleive you should be able to peer down the keyway and see the drive pin for the counter balancer, does it look ok? If you want to closely inspect the drive pin, you have to pop a cam out to loosen the cam chain enough to let it off the gear, so unless the key you already removed looks beat up, I would not do this, unless it is comforting. If all is ok, slip the key back in, slip the primarry gear bak on and continue with the 'fix'.

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Yes I would pull all the stuff off the end of the crank and replace the drive keys. May be the time to replace the cam chain too. Yes you will need to time the cams when you put it all back together. Very simple. Just line up the marks. TDC crank mark, and marks on the cams. Top cover off, line up the marks before you pull it apart. Use "TDC compression" (when the lobes are 10:00 and 2:00 o'clock) Cam marks line up with the head surface, You'll see.

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Thanks for the help guys: Here are more key pics Yes you can just catch your fingernail on them.

key1.jpg

key2.jpg

key3.jpg

Is cam chain replacement likely to be necessary?

Dan

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Key looks fine. Chain replacement? Well, it depends on how long and if you still use the stock cam chain tensioner. If you do, I'd do the cam chain like Noble suggests and replace the ACCT with a MCCT. It is not a lot of additional work to do at this point and realistically, not a bad idea. The chain is cheap ($20.00??), a mcct is like $55.00. But if you do the chain, I'd then put in a new ket and probably the counter balancer pin as ultra cheap insurance.

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and heres one of the keyway, Ive tried looking up there but its a bit dark!

keyway.jpg

Dan

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Hiya

Ive already bought the MCCT to do as part of the PN fix! so half way there already. The stock ACCT has been on there from new, but I dont know the mileage as it was mostly used off road before I bought it and didn't have a speedo. It now says 1000 miles but that aint true! I'd guess at 15k from the wear and tear. The PN wasnt loctited (obviously!) but the clutch basket has been taken off before as the tab washer has been reused (the nut was also loose by the way!) Everything else looks ok.

William

I tried the flashlight and put on stronger glasses!!! but its just black and oily up there!! I'll blow it out with a compressor tomorrow and have another look!

I'll have a look for threads on cam chain replacement, the manual is useless as it assumes complete disassembly?

keyway-1.jpg

Dan

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Yeah, If I were you, I'd continue the job, do it completely right.

Once the cams are out, if you remove the special allen bolt on the lower chain guide (have to remove the clutch hub), you can slip the cam chain off. You just drop it down the chain tunnel and take it out, install is the reverse, though a coat hanger fished down will be needed to thread it back up. ACCT off, of course. Re-install the primary nut, install the special allen bolt, install and time the cams.

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Sounds straight forward enough! ..... Famous last words!! I'll sus out the price of a chain tomorrow. Is OEM best? Clutch is off, all within tolerances and looking not too bad, but the damper springs are a bit lose is worth buying new ones? So I'm going to locktight the PN and clutch nut should I do any others while I'm there? Balance shaft nut?

Thanks again for all your help.

Dan

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Yeah, oem chain is cheap and no hassel.

You mean the pressure plate springs? If they are under spec, I'd replace them. If you mean the springs in the hub, then no, leave them bee unless the rattling can be heard and bothers you. They are merely shock absorbers.

Yeah, locktite the balancer nut after you have the primary back in. No need to locktite the clutch nut as it uses a bent locking washer.

Be gentle re-installing the clutch hub. It will easily slip in once all the gears that mesh with it and the planets in far away galaixies are aligned. Take your time. I have a feeling you will and will do a good job.

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Cheers William, I'll take it steady - I've stripped down plenty of engines in the past (and put them back together!) just not the DRZ and having just 1 cylinder makes it a bit more straight forward.

Dan

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Devon - to catch up a little. The keys don't look good. (William how can you say that?). Keyways are fine. You are on the right track. Yes, now is the right time to replace the cam chain. (William where do you buy one for $20. The only one I bought was OEM about $80 USD) Anyway - yea, you got this one just in time. The keys are mainly for alignment. Drive torque is transmitted thru the pressure applied by the nut. With a loose nut the keys do a lo more work taking most of he load. They wear (as you see) and eventually completely shear. Can't tell without metallurgical exam if the keys are partly sheared or not. Any wear is cause for replacement.

The best way to judge cam chain wear is to compare to a new one. But of course if you have a new one to compare to, you might as well use the new one. With a 2000 model you probably have the "chain catcher " bolt in the head to remove also to replace he chain. You have the hard part done already. Good pix. Well done.

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Thanks again - I had decided to replace the key anyway - a few pennies for peace of mind it seems to me!

I'll post a few more pics for posterity when I've got a chain next week. I'm enjoying getting my hands dirty again!

Dan

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Concur. The woodruff key is junk. It is not there as a load bearing device, or not primarily so in any case. That one in the pic shows wear, as I would expect with a loose nut.

, Cam chain is $38 from ronayers

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