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HID conversion drains my battery.

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Okay so I have a question. I have a CRF450x and I've just replaced the stock headlight with an HID. Well... I Didn't use the stock light, I Bought 2- 4" driving lights from Kragen and put 2 HID bulbs in them.

Got it all dialed in, they worked pro until I noticed that they were draining the battery even while the bike was running.

Does anyone know if I can wind the stator or something or is that just 2 strokes?

any info would be appreciated:worthy:

Thanks!

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Okay so I have a question. I have a CRF450x and I've just replaced the stock headlight with an HID. Well... I Didn't use the stock light, I Bought 2- 4" driving lights from Kragen and put 2 HID bulbs in them.

Got it all dialed in, they worked pro until I noticed that they were draining the battery even while the bike was running.

Does anyone know if I can wind the stator or something or is that just 2 strokes?

any info would be appreciated:worthy:

Thanks!

this is what the stock stator produces:

64.4 Watts total output. (20 watts DC, 44.4 watts AC)

send your stock stator over to bajadesigns.com for a rewind. the stock stator is too weak for anything but plonking back to the truck. the stator's behind your left case and easy to remove. 🙂

here's my old trashed stator. this is just so you'll know how it looks in there:

Picture008-3.jpg

the stator bolts onto the case shown here. disregard the writing on the pic.

Picture2.jpg

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this is what the stock stator produces:

64.4 Watts total output. (20 watts DC, 44.4 watts AC)

send your stock stator over to bajadesigns.com for a rewind. the stock stator is too weak for anything but plonking back to the truck. the stator's behind your left case and easy to remove. 🙂

here's my old trashed stator. this is just so you'll know how it looks in there:

Picture008-3.jpg

the stator bolts onto the case shown here. disregard the writing on the pic.

Picture2.jpg

Yes, you need to get your stator rewound and a new rectifier/regulator...this will switch your AC system to DC and then you will be putting out over 100 watts. The only downside is that you have to hook the light up directly to the battery with a separate on/off switch, AND you'll have to run at least the stock light in the daytime to prevent the rectifier/regulator from burning up.

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ohhhhhh. yeah I already have it hooked directly to the battery.

good to know bout running the stock light during the day.

Thank you very much for your help.

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One HID pulls 35Watts and about 6amps.

Two HIDs pull 70Watts and 12amps.

Stock stator doesn't produce enough for two HIDs... as recommended, have it rewound to produce up to 150W (BajaDesigns). With the upgraded reg/rec it's not necessary to run a stock light or to always draw power to save the reg/rec from burning up... at least, mine hasn't had any issues (and I'm not special) :D

BTW, Kragen has a 7" HID light that would work great... solo. No need for two 4" lights. The larger the reflector, the better focul point and dispersion of the light. Imagine putting two flashlights into a 4" pipe.... and then a 7" pipe... which will shine better out the end of the pipe (no matter the length of pipe)?!

🙂

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One HID pulls 35Watts and about 6amps.

Two HIDs pull 70Watts and 12amps.

BTW, Kragen has a 7" HID light that would work great... solo. No need for two 4" lights. The larger the reflector, the better focul point and dispersion of the light. Imagine putting two flashlights into a 4" pipe.... and then a 7" pipe... which will shine better out the end of the pipe (no matter the length of pipe)?!

🙂

Johnny, you're killing me, your numbers are good for a 6volt system.

P(watts) = V(volts) x I(amps). But FWI at startup (depending on make and model) you can pull 15-20amps for a few seconds till they warm up.

If you're only planning on running a single 35w as Johnny mentioned, there is another option. We recently did this to a WR450 with the instructions off the BajaD website.

Float the ground on the AC lighting coil, you could then connect it in series with the DC charging coil, which is not necessary, and you have a 50/50 chance of hooking it up out of phase, subtracting the wattage instead of adding it.

But again, you would still have to upgrade your Reg/Rect anyway. So why bother.

If you want to do it once and get it right the first time, go with 74barrio's setup.

Yes, you need to get your stator rewound and a new rectifier/regulator...this will switch your AC system to DC and then you will be putting out over 100 watts. The only downside is that you have to hook the light up directly to the battery with a separate on/off switch, AND you'll have to run at least the stock light in the daytime to prevent the rectifier/regulator from burning up.

Cubera just went through the whole upgrade stator exercise and went with Ricky Stator. That sounded like a decent way to as you don't send your stock unit in as a core. But it sounds like his ignition coil shat itself.

The point being, saving a little cash here or there is great, one ruined trip costs way more.

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Johnny, you're killing me, your numbers are good for a 6volt system.

P(watts) = V(volts) x I(amps). But FWI at startup (depending on make and model) you can pull 15-20watts for a few seconds till they warm up.

Esssplain lucy. I'm a bit confuzzed as I simply go with manufacturers information. .... and I've only worked with 12volt systems (car, truck, bike...etc).

Being I'm definitely NOT an electrical engineer... whatchuu mean?! "my numbers are good for a 6volt system" 🙂

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Esssplain lucy. I'm a bit confuzzed as I simply go with manufacturers information. .... and I've only worked with 12volt systems (car, truck, bike...etc).

Being I'm definitely NOT an electrical engineer... whatchuu mean?! "my numbers are good for a 6volt system" 🙂

P(watts) = V(volts) x I(amps), all manufacturers will rate the components based on that.

I'm not an EE, my major was physics. Unless they're teaching new math to you whippersnappers.

If you want to solve for volts it's,

V = P/I

or amps, I = P/V

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P(watts) = V(volts) x I(amps), all manufacturers will rate the components based on that.

I'm not an EE, my major was physics. Unless they're teaching new math to you whippersnappers.

If you want to solve for volts it's,

V = P/I

or amps, I = P/V

Thank you Sir... now, how would we use this formula? I mean... for what reason exactly? (bear with me... I'm being a bit fecetious and a little dumb to this 🙂 -- we all can learn something :D)

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One HID pulls 35Watts and about 6amps.

Two HIDs pull 70Watts and 12amps.

🙂

The amperage you quoted solves for a 6v system, if you're running 12v and your HID needs 35w your system will draw only 3amps.

No big, I just think it's funny.

Actually when you're designing circuits you need this stuff to select the right components, wire gage size that sort of thing. Or things might catch fire.

Your circuit would be on the safe side by a factor of 2.

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The amperage you quoted solves for a 6v system, if you're running 12v and your HID needs 35w your system will draw only 3amps.

No big, I just think it's funny.

Actually when you're designing circuits you need this stuff to select the right components, wire gage size that sort of thing. Or things might catch fire.

Your circuit would be on the safe side by a factor of 2.

No big here either... I'm just trying to clarify things on each end. :worthy:

You might find this interesting;

... startup is always a killer to any system when HID.

I didn't do the math for my info, but the steady current (of a single 35W HID) is 3.2 to 3.8 amps (tested). Taking it directly from a manufacturer doesn't always bring perfect results, but it does help configure a system. I think this is where my 6amp/12amp claim (and mistake - read my notes wrong) and your comment is coming from. I do know a 100W Halogen has approx. an 8amp draw... and dual HIDs is near 8amps.... and when people are trying to 'make' a bike system work... it's easier to compare HID to Halogen for me (and most others).

So ... let me correct my initial post (to cure the amperage discussion),

One HID pulls 35Watts and about 3-4amps.

Two HIDs pull 70Watts and 6-8amps.

...adding, at startup... each HID can draw up to 12amps each or more. This often is seen when bikes don't have enough power to start an HID, and it'll "flicker" until the bike reaches power, a quick rev is used, or the light warms up and is only requiring 3 /12 amps.

Man, and I thought my brain was turned off today!!!

... better?! :ride: ... I still don't know what I'm talking about. :D .... 🙂

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Trust me.....I learned the hard way. Send the stator to Baja Designs and have then ship it back re-wound and with the right rectifier-regulator. It's the only way to go unless you're willing to be stranded in Bumfock with no spark.

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Trust me.....I learned the hard way. Send the stator to Baja Designs and have then ship it back re-wound and with the right rectifier-regulator. It's the only way to go unless you're willing to be stranded in Bumfock with no spark.

If it makes you feel better, you aren't the only one who has learned the hard way. I send my stators to BD now instead of buying a POS aftermarket stator. I had a long ways to push...

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If it makes you feel better, you aren't the only one who has learned the hard way. I send my stators to BD now instead of buying a POS aftermarket stator. I had a long ways to push...

Nah....it sure doesn't make me feel better to hear your POS aftermarket stator failed BUT I thank you for chiming in to help warn others. I sent the failed stator back to Ricky Stator last week and haven't heard a word...probably won't and I don't care at this point. I should be getting the OEM back from Baja Designs this week and I just might get another shot at a Baja ride with it next month.🙂:D:worthy::ride:

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Nah....it sure doesn't make me feel better to hear your POS aftermarket stator failed BUT I thank you for chiming in to help warn others. I sent the failed stator back to Ricky Stator last week and haven't heard a word...probably won't and I don't care at this point. I should be getting the OEM back from Baja Designs this week and I just might get another shot at a Baja ride with it next month.🙂:worthy::ride::banghead:

Coob... sorry to hear about the stator issue, and whether it be resolved or not. I hope so, that's good $$.

... and for sure another shot, just make sure to test ride with some miles beforehand. I'd hate to see the second attempt end like the first one... yeeeouch! :D

BTW - Don't forget I've got your GPR to return/replace... I'll be doing that this week/weekend. As I am going to be getting one for myself. I'm removing my RTT this weekend (leaked this trip - again - even with upgrades)

:banghead:

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HAHAHAHHA! Thanks for taking in the V2 for me, JJ! I hope it gets fixed to last awhile this time. That lower seal has blown twice in the last 6 months.

I did many miles of testing and many hours of wrenching on the 450X before this last Baja ride. The intermittent problem caused by the bad ignition coil on the brand new stator was hard to figure out and it took total failure of the unit to finally solve the problem. In hindsight, I should have just put the OEM stator back in for the Baja trip or at least brought it along to swap out.....Live and learn. It stumped 3 professional mechanics also but that no consolation. She'll be as good to go next time as good to go gets.

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Yes, you need to get your stator rewound and a new rectifier/regulator...this will switch your AC system to DC and then you will be putting out over 100 watts. The only downside is that you have to hook the light up directly to the battery with a separate on/off switch, AND you'll have to run at least the stock light in the daytime to prevent the rectifier/regulator from burning up.

Thanks! I took the stator to Baja Designs for a rewind and got a new rectifier/ regulator thingy. They didn't mention anything about running my stock headlight during the day to avoid burning the rectifier.

I mentioned it to them (thanks to you)🙂 and they then told me that was correct.

So THANK YOU!!

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