Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Broken oil drain! #@$#@$#^#$#@!!!!!!

Recommended Posts

holy crap, how the hell did you do that.🙂

but anyway i dont no if your going to have to replace your case. do you have the rest of the broken case? maybe you can bring it to a machine shop and you can have them weld it backtogether then fill it, then drill a new hole and tap it out.. other than that i have noideas.

btw around the hole is that spider cracks or just dirt.?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah that is the only option other than to replace the case, to have it welded up and re tapped. I think the spider looking marks are just castin marks. Almost all cases have those

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's just dirt from the foam that goes between my skidplate & the bottom of the case.

I think what happened was that a small crack in the drain began to grow over time. When I drained the oil the other night, the plug just didn't seem to "feel" right when trying to put it back in -- and it wouldn't get tight. I'm pretty sure that spinning around the plug bolt a few extra times is what screwed up the threads.

When I took off the skid plate, I was greeted with a nice small chunk of aluminum and the lovely site in the pic I linked. Grrr.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What about a ghetto JB weld and retap job?

If I'm going to pull the case, I might as well just replace it. I don't have the tools necessary to pull and replace the crank, so I gotta bite the bullet and have a shop do it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What about a ghetto JB weld and retap job?

If I'm going to pull the case, I might as well just replace it. I don't have the tools necessary to pull and replace the crank, so I gotta bite the bullet and have a shop do it.

JB weld will not hold up for a part that big. you will just run into more problems down the road..

bring it to a shop and see what they can do for you

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Chances are, a weld will fail. Castings do not take kindly to being half weld/half casting. A top notch areospace welder could do it but you are going to have to tear the engine down to have it done, so you might as well source a blow ebay engine use those cases. Will cost about the same and you know the drain hole will be ok unless you over tighten it again.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JB weld will not hold up for a part that big. you will just run into more problems down the road..

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I'm actually waiting on a quote from my local shop to replace the case and am about to head over to another shop to get a 2nd quote (and to look at the new KTMs, haha).

At least my next harescramble isn't until Sept. 7th. I just hope I can have the bike up and running again before that. 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just pick up a case splitter, flywheel puller, clutch basket holder and crank puller from Rockymountainatv and give it a shot yourself. I just did my first bottom end a couple of weeks ago and it really isn't that hard to follow the manual. The tools will cost you less than $175. A shop will charge you at least $250 in labor any time they have to split cases. You'll save some $, learn more about your engine and have the tools for next time. Watch the vids on the bottom end rebuild on Rocky Mountain to get an idea of what it takes.

http://offroadvideos.magnify.net/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Look into a Helicoil

My brother just stripped his on his kx 500. A helicoil will have a self tapping insert that will go into your case and also have the female thread for your drain plug. Most car parts places will have this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just pick up a case splitter, flywheel puller, clutch basket holder and crank puller from Rockymountainatv and give it a shot yourself. I just did my first bottom end a couple of weeks ago and it really isn't that hard to follow the manual. The tools will cost you less than $175. A shop will charge you at least $250 in labor any time they have to split cases. You'll save some $, learn more about your engine and have the tools for next time. Watch the vids on the bottom end rebuild on Rocky Mountain to get an idea of what it takes.

[/url]

Good advice. It is fairly easy. On youtube there are even Rockymountain videos to walk you through it.

I would add a good torque wrench to the list if you don't have one.

Check for a new case at cyclepartswarehouse.com. They have exceptional prices--more than $100 to weld in a new boss and tap it, but like somebody else said, it is cast and repair is not a sure thing for the long haul.

The work will probably take you about 8 hours start to finish the first time, but you will learn a lot.

When replacing the case I would replace all the bearings too. It is hard to get the old ones out without applying pressure to the inner race and they are not made for that. Again, if you risk it and recycle the bearings you may end up opening the case again to replace a bearing you damaged when pulling it from the old case.

Good luck.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the links, guys. I'm considering fixing it myself, but at the same time, I don't want to create more problems because I decided to save a few bucks by doing it myself. Time is also somewhat of the essance as well.....I don't want to miss any of my upcoming races and scheduled trail rides due to a broken bike that I'm (slowly) fixing. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but this just seems like something I don't have the time or patience for.

Depending on what I end up for shop quotes (one quoted me nearly $500 in labor alone, lol), I might just start looking for used motors. If anyone could give me some leads on that (other than ebay, which I'm watching), it would be appreciated!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for the links, guys. I'm considering fixing it myself, but at the same time, I don't want to create more problems because I decided to save a few bucks by doing it myself. Time is also somewhat of the essance as well.....I don't want to miss any of my upcoming races and scheduled trail rides due to a broken bike that I'm (slowly) fixing. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but this just seems like something I don't have the time or patience for.

Depending on what I end up for shop quotes (one quoted me nearly $500 in labor alone, lol), I might just start looking for used motors. If anyone could give me some leads on that (other than ebay, which I'm watching), it would be appreciated!

ouch thats a bad one, replace case, thats a bad place to try repair, jam a wooden dowel in w/ silicone and ride.... just kidding

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Look into a Helicoil

My brother just stripped his on his kx 500. A helicoil will have a self tapping insert that will go into your case and also have the female thread for your drain plug. Most car parts places will have this

o helicoil would work great if there was a hole there to put the heli coil into...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, so here's what I think I'd need to get if I'm going to replace the case. I'm guessing that it would be a good idea to replace any bearings and seals that get pulled from the broken case. Does this look like I'm missing anything major?

1C3-15121-00-00 CRANKCASE 2 $278.24 1 $278.24

1C3-15462-00-00 GASKET, CRANKCASE COVER 3 $4.00 1 $4.00

90430-10171-00 GASKET (90430-10188-00) $1.64 1 $1.64

95027-10016-00 .BOLT, FLANGE $1.85 1 $1.85

93210-16314-00 O-RING $1.39 1 $1.39

99530-10116-00 PIN, DOWEL $0.95 2 $1.90

99590-17016-00 PIN, DOWEL $1.93 1 $1.93

93306-37204-00 BEARING (63/22SH2-9TC4) KOYO $13.49 2 $26.98

93102-20485-00 OIL SEAL $7.59 1 $7.59

93102-22419-00 OIL SEAL $4.98 1 $4.98

90280-03017-00 KEY, WOODRUFF $0.95 1 $0.95

93306-00442-00 BEARING $15.13 1 $15.13

93306-00326-00 BEARING $12.27 1 $12.27

Subtotal: $358.85

🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ok, so here's what I think I'd need to get if I'm going to replace the case. I'm guessing that it would be a good idea to replace any bearings and seals that get pulled from the broken case. Does this look like I'm missing anything major?

1C3-15121-00-00 CRANKCASE 2 $278.24 1 $278.24

1C3-15462-00-00 GASKET, CRANKCASE COVER 3 $4.00 1 $4.00

90430-10171-00 GASKET (90430-10188-00) $1.64 1 $1.64

95027-10016-00 .BOLT, FLANGE $1.85 1 $1.85

93210-16314-00 O-RING $1.39 1 $1.39

99530-10116-00 PIN, DOWEL $0.95 2 $1.90

99590-17016-00 PIN, DOWEL $1.93 1 $1.93

93306-37204-00 BEARING (63/22SH2-9TC4) KOYO $13.49 2 $26.98

93102-20485-00 OIL SEAL $7.59 1 $7.59

93102-22419-00 OIL SEAL $4.98 1 $4.98

90280-03017-00 KEY, WOODRUFF $0.95 1 $0.95

93306-00442-00 BEARING $15.13 1 $15.13

93306-00326-00 BEARING $12.27 1 $12.27

Subtotal: $358.85

🙂

cant tell you about the list but 358 isnt bad! i broke a 1.50$ bolt in my yz 125 the bolt cost 1.50$ they put a bottle of 10$ oil in the bike and the total came out to 260:| you will be saving alot of money doing it your self and good luck keep up posted:thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm actually not going to fix it myself. I've got quotes from $2-300 for labor -- and if I were to do it myself, I'd need to spend just shy of $150 to get the necessary tools to do the job.

IMHO, the extra $50-150 dollars it worth it to me to ensure that the job is done right and I'm not wasting a ton of my time out of my already busy schedule.

Basically the plan I'm looking into is gathering the parts necessary, pulling the motor from the bike and delivering the bottom end + parts to a shop to do the work. I'm still saving a ton of $$$ by doing it this way -- I got one quote from a dealer of over $800 to do the entire job from start to finish (that's including them gouging me on the parts as well, lol). 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you still have the oil drain bolt and broken piece? This happened to me on my 125 once. I took the broken piece and the plug and fit it back into the case, then took j/b weld and attached it. After that dried, I put a high temp permatex all around my ghetto j/b weld job. It actually worked; didn't drip a lick of oil. It's not a permanent fix but it may get you through a couple of rides.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...