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WR250R throttle jerk!

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Is there any way to somehow smooth out the initial jerk and lurch from the throttle response? Man, I thought it would break in but still is bad in 1st and 2nd when you let off and on the throttle. Any guidance?

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Make sure your chain is adjusted correctly. Read this thread.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=650333&highlight=chain

And get PC3 or FMF programmer. The PC3 made a big difference for me. You'll find many other testimonials here and on SMJ.

If you go to one of the biggest on line deal sites, there is a way to score a PC3/FMF programmer and a lot of other pricey things without emptying your wallet. I'm sure it's against the rules to post more info, but I got a PC3 for around 2 bills. YMMV and I in no way guarantee you the same. Caveat emptor!

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I hate how it goes from nothing to wham with no smooth engagement. I hope that someone has been able to adjust something on the bike. I dont want my clutch to slip but would love some smooth accelleration in a turn.

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I hate how it goes from nothing to wham with no smooth engagement. I hope that someone has been able to adjust something on the bike. I dont want my clutch to slip but would love some smooth accelleration in a turn.

If you are coming out of a turn and the engine is lugging / jerking when you twist the throttle, especially after 1300 miles and adjusting the chain, the rpms are too low. Downshift. No matter what drivetrain changes you make, this will always make the biggest difference.

For spirited riding, you need to stay between 6k and 10k rpm.

Cheers!

/dh

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This happens turning at any speed in any gear. I can turn in 2nd at 15-25 and still the same. When i have no throttle applied going straight and try to coax the bike along in trail riding, it jumps on me each and every time. Its pretty rough and my clutch friction zone is very small so I spend my time jumping and lurching. Is my bike different from everyone elses? Can I make an adjustment somewhere?

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Anyone hear when we can expect a Rekluse Z-Start? Would this take away some of the jerkiness? I've never run a bike with a Z-Start.

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This happens turning at any speed in any gear. I can turn in 2nd at 15-25 and still the same. When i have no throttle applied going straight and try to coax the bike along in trail riding, it jumps on me each and every time. Its pretty rough and my clutch friction zone is very small so I spend my time jumping and lurching. Is my bike different from everyone elses? Can I make an adjustment somewhere?

I know. The throttle / clutch combo is very touchy engaging at lower rpms. I can't comment on the offroad stuff, but others can help.

I can say that on road, I forget about 2nd at 15-25. Try shifting into second at around 25:D You dont hit the rev limiter in first until over 30:D No kidding, try downshifting and staying in the power band, which is over 6k.

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Mine has a 3/08 manufacture date and is one of the smoothest carbureting (ok FI'ing) bikes I've ever owned. The clutch works fine both on and off-road, and I am kind of a clutch slipp'n kind of guy. Is it possible something changed in the manufacturing process?

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Yeah I really don't know what to say. I keep seeing all of the threads about this but have never had the same issues. Maybe it's a riding style thing?

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I had the same jerking when adding throttle from idle in 1st and 2nd gear but after lowering the gearing to a 12t sprocket in the front (still stock in the back) it is pretty much gone. The lower gearing made a huge difference in overall performance of the bike especially if you do any off road riding. There has been some talk about vibration when changing the front sprocket to a 12T in the front but I have not experienced vibration at all, even at higher speeds. You do hear more chain buzz but that's just because there is no rubber damper on the new sprocket. It is a very cheap way (like 6 bucks) to potentially eliminate the jerking and a bonus of new found low end power. My bike was manufactured 1/08.

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Make sure your chain is adjusted correctly. Read this thread.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=650333&highlight=chain

And get PC3 or FMF programmer. The PC3 made a big difference for me. You'll find many other testimonials here and on SMJ.

If you go to one of the biggest on line deal sites, there is a way to score a PC3/FMF programmer and a lot of other pricey things without emptying your wallet. I'm sure it's against the rules to post more info, but I got a PC3 for around 2 bills. YMMV and I in no way guarantee you the same. Caveat emptor!

Is that against the rules? I don't know. A PC3 is the first mod I want to do to this bike. I'm after sharper throttle response from it, and maybe 1hp if I'm lucky. I don't want to add a pipe unless someone makes one quieter than what's out there now. So, I'd sure appreciate hearing where you can find the PC3 for $200! I've checked a number of sites, but nobody that I've found is that inexpensive.

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283 with shipping from NXS autoparts on ebay best deal I know of. The pc3 smooths the power but doesnt completely eliminate the "snatch" this is because the engine engine brakes very well and then you transition to acceleration. Some of its avoidable in that regard.

The Pc3 made it better but adding teeth in the rear and lowering the gearing made it a bit more snappy again

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Mainly, if your chain is the proper slack, then try a 12t front sprokett, this is the cheapest easy way to deal with it, also makes the bike more responsive, dont be afraid to run higher rpms, kinda like a crotch rocket......

When you have the $$ do a pipe and tuner (I rely on FMF for both) This made all the difference in the world, and with my mods I ended up with a 6hp increase......:)

Also double check your throttle,clutch, cables, maybe they have some slack in them....

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I appreciate the help. I will consider a 12t front sprocket. Will that affect my ability to run at 60-65mph on the highway? The motor would seem wound up. Any idea how many rpms that would be?

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60 - 70 should not be an issue, I can usually approach 60 safely in 4th gear so cruising at 60 in 6th gear should be fine, and as far as the added vibrations I have not felt any difference (from stock) at all even at 85mph....

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Is that against the rules? I don't know. A PC3 is the first mod I want to do to this bike. I'm after sharper throttle response from it, and maybe 1hp if I'm lucky. I don't want to add a pipe unless someone makes one quieter than what's out there now. So, I'd sure appreciate hearing where you can find the PC3 for $200! I've checked a number of sites, but nobody that I've found is that inexpensive.

You will find a fat hint in my original post where to find the deal info. If that doesn't help send me a pm.

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