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completely rebuilding the YZ

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Decided that since I am gonna have some spare time on my hands over the next couple months that I am gonna break down the '02 YZ 250 for a complete rebuild.:) I'm talking down to the frame!! gonna repaint the frame---(with automotive paint of course):D , polish every piece of aluminum i can get my hands on and basically just spend several nights in the garage with some brews and tunes. A couple of things...am I gonna have a problem taking the triple clamps off and on? I think i remember hearing something about having them pressed on???? The other thing is.... do you have any helpful tips from times that you may have done this before? Thanks fellas!

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I take it you have never greased the steering head bearings if you have never had the triple clamps off. If this is the case, you will most likely need to buy new bearings and races. If you have never greased the shock linkage either, those bearings will most likely need to be replaced as well. To take the triple clamps off you just need to take the top nut (under the bars) off, then the top clamp lifts off (assuming you have the forks out), and then remove the castle nut under the top clamp and the bottom clamp and steering stem will drop out of the bottom of the steering tube in the frame. The stem is pressed into the bottom clamp, but there is no need to remove that. The bottom bearing is pressed onto the stem, so it is easiest to use a press to change the bearing. Make sure you grease all bearings (and I prefer to grease all bolts) during the reassembly of the bike.

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I take it you have never greased the steering head bearings if you have never had the triple clamps off. If this is the case, you will most likely need to buy new bearings and races. If you have never greased the shock linkage either, those bearings will most likely need to be replaced as well. To take the triple clamps off you just need to take the top nut (under the bars) off, then the top clamp lifts off (assuming you have the forks out), and then remove the castle nut under the top clamp and the bottom clamp and steering stem will drop out of the bottom of the steering tube in the frame. The stem is pressed into the bottom clamp, but there is no need to remove that. The bottom bearing is pressed onto the stem, so it is easiest to use a press to change the bearing. Make sure you grease all bearings (and I prefer to grease all bolts) during the reassembly of the bike.

You would be correct sir. I have never greased the linkage or the stem. Thanks for the helpful tips. :)

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This is the non aesthetic part of things... it may be a good idea to stick a new top end in the bike while you have everything torn down - that would freshen up the motor - and its a 2 stroke, can't be that expensive...

And fresh suspension fluids in the forks/shock would really help things out...

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swingarms can be a PITA to remove at times. So if you do, grease that really good too.

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All good tips...top end is on the list as well as rr shock rebuild. Just did the fronts not too long ago with RaceTech hardware. only thing left is to remove the motor, triples, and wiring. let the fun begin!!!!

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Dude get some pics up here..

I have a few pics. Taken during disassembly. I'll get a couple up.

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Keep everything in one place and keep track of all your bolts. Thats one problem I had when I went to put my bike back from a ground up rebuild.:D Grease everything aswell. Don't cut any corners either.:)

Heres my bike almost done after my rebuild.

HPIM0533.jpg

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^^^^^ Looks sweet.

Most of the technical has been covered in here so I will just state the obvious. HAVE FUN! I love tearing down and rebuilding. It is fun as hell while you are doing it and when you get done you can step back and admire your work with the piece of mind that your bike is solid and ready to go.

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Once you have repainted the frame, spray some rust stopper inside the frame then silcone up all the drain holes and seal the hole in the steering head.

This will stop your frame rusting from the inside out.

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Once you have repainted the frame, spray some rust stopper inside the frame then silcone up all the drain holes and seal the hole in the steering head.

This will stop your frame rusting from the inside out.

What do you use for rust stopper??? Can you think of a brand name???

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What do you use for rust stopper??? Can you think of a brand name???

Here it is what ever I can find. You should be able to find it at any automotive supply shop or even a good paint shop.

My father used some stuff on his car restoration project that was used for stopping the corrosion of steel artifacts that where recovered from the sea. It basically soaked into the steel and sealed it from the air. Needless to say there is no rust in his car even after 15 years.

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I just completed mine.

All wheels and linkage bearings changed.

Swing arm bearing changed, Steering stem

was good, packed with grease.

Everything was greased as KJ790 stated.

I bought a all new 8mm bolts, as well as the rebuild kit.

Two bottles of Lock tite, one to step on.

PJ1 frame paint came after a wire wheel and primer.

New jug, old was worn on a side. Piston, crank, WR transmission,

clutch basket, I already had a Kevlar and steel clutch. I

also went back to the stock pipe. New SDG seat tall. I replaced

my blue 3.6 tank with a natural 3.6, thanks Ebay! New 15/51

sprocket and 9 oz on the flywheel. Already had a Davej job on it as well.

I have about 5 miles and two heat cycles at 28 to 1 Maxima K2.

You won't be sorry.

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