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Stripped Bolt Removal

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Took my bike (08 TE-510) to the dealer (125 miles away) last weekend for a Power Up install and 600 mile service. Upon returning home I found the left rear side panel/number plate bolt wouldn't come out or tighten. Any ideas on getting this bolt out so I can either replace the bolt or fix the frame tab that it screws into? All it does is spin.

Thanks in advance for any tips.

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Not sure I know exactly which bolt you're talking about. Does it screw into the gas tank? If so, the brass insert is spinning in the plastic tank. They appear to have been inserted with some sort of shims, or glue...but whatever it was it's wasn't worth ****all. Three of mine spun out. Just pry it out and the brass insert will come free of the tank.

If it doesn't screw into the tank, well then I've got nuthin' :)

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yea that sucks, i just fixed one of mine on the air box. some jack ass totally overtightend that thing.

its a total PIA!!!

first try a highspeed drill.. it might catch for a split second and itll come off easy. mine didnt though, but you need the drill, you kinda gotta melt it though so you want damage the apperance of the plastic.( no way in hell to just pull that thing out) so just spin it for awhile till it gets really hot and just push it though. must get to the back side though.

my $0.02

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Hi , - Try a search within the last 6 months of this forum,(poss 2-strokes ??)

was a common problem with the 08's in the US,

a good informative thread

lots of good ideas,

Charlie

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I just had an idea!

Use a socket to stop the bolt spinning and hold the socket with something like a mole grip then use a drill through the square hole of the socket to drill the bolt head off. your panel shouldnt get damaged.

If its a bolt that's in a deep recess use a deep series socket.

I've had trouble with these nut inserts, I was lucky the bolts came out but I would give it a go:ride:

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I just had an idea!

Use a socket to stop the bolt spinning and hold the socket with something like a mole grip then use a drill through the square hole of the socket to drill the bolt head off. your panel shouldnt get damaged.

If its a bolt that's in a deep recess use a deep series socket.

I've had trouble with these nut inserts, I was lucky the bolts came out but I would give it a go:ride:

I think the end that is spinning is inside the tank. No?

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Took my bike (08 TE-510) to the dealer (125 miles away) last weekend for a Power Up install and 600 mile service. Upon returning home I found the left rear side panel/number plate bolt wouldn't come out or tighten. Any ideas on getting this bolt out so I can either replace the bolt or fix the frame tab that it screws into? All it does is spin.

Thanks in advance for any tips.

Mate take it back & request warranty. if not for it being a new bike, claim warranty on the service for over tightening the bolt. any husky dealer worth 1/2 his weight in burnt 2 stroke oil will know not to overtighten those suckers! husky want ass rapin for not fixn this problem yet...

this problem is so common most husky dealers worht 1/3 of their weight in moon dust will have the tooling to replace those thread inserts! i know my dealer does. :worthy::D:)

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Use a socket to stop the bolt spinning and hold the socket with something like a mole grip then use a drill through the square hole of the socket to drill the bolt head off. your panel shouldnt get damaged.

If its a bolt that's in a deep recess use a deep series socket.

I've had trouble with these nut inserts, I was lucky the bolts came out but I would give it a go:ride:

Ricky's suggestion sounds feasible for removing the panel without damage , but then how do you get the thread out of a spinning nut..??

The thread link is not to the the thread that I recall..?? , but here is what I found on my CR125

when I bought it,

The allen headed screws that hold the rear side panels onto the alloy subframe were just spinning, - I used a screwdriver/tire iron to lever the plastic panel away from the sub-frame , at the same time turning the screw to undo it, the pressure put on the "captive nut" within the alloy tube was enough to undo the screw.

once you have removed the panel , try and use the correct tool ( similar to a pop-rivet gun) to flare the end of the captive nut , and lock it back into the sub-frame.

you may be able to use a piece of steel tube and a longer bolt to "squezze the end" of the captive nut enough to flare it's end...

Hopefully this translates o.k. into american english,

Charlie

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This is a bit hard to explain in words but here goes :D

When the bolt is tightened up it clamps the stepped spacer/washer against the nut insert so it does'nt split the plastic. So the whole lot spins in the frame.

My idea was if just the bolt head is drilled off and the panel removed there should be about 5mm of bolt thread sticking out to get hold of. Because there is no clamping force on the thread and hopefuly its not yet rusted then it should unscrew.:)

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