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Any tips for a snapped off chain adjuster bolt

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The bolt you turn to move your axle blocks and adjust your chain.

Just discovered it on the recently bought XR650R.

I've ordered a new bolt and nut but have to figure out how to get the snapped, probably seized bolt out.

I will probably drill a small hole in it and see if an extractor will get it out. Then, if not, I might try to drill a larger hole in it and turn it through so that the bolt come out loose, inside the inner swingarm.

Any previous experience with this or metal tips welcomed.

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I had the same problem with mine same side too. I tried to drill it out, but found it impossible to drill it out without screwing up the internal threades. I ended up just drilling it out and retapping the hole to a larger diameter and using KTM (slightly bigger) chain tensioner bolts. Works great.

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WD-40 let it soak. A good pair of vise grips. :) It looks like you have enough there to get ahold of it. :D I would take the rim off also. :worthy:

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Drill the center of the bolt for an easy out. ( make sure it is as close to centered as possible and straight) spray PB blaster thru drilled hole to get to backside of bolt. Heat the swing arm around the outside of the bolt and then try to get it out with your easyout. Also say a little prayer. If that fails, do what Docmark suggested. Just my .02

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I had the same problem on BOTH of my adjuster bolts. I took my swingarm off, and soaked both bolts (which also had broken off heads) in a bath of PB blaster with the swingarm verticle to let it seep into the bolts. I let the bolts soak for two days and I even applied heat. With a strong set of vice grips those bastards Still would not budge even a hair. I ended up drilling both of them out and tapping them with a M8 x1.25 tap. I bought some some new hardware from ACE and now she's good to go.

I also had to buy a tap extender from sears due to the tight area to tap.

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Had the same problem with my two adjuster bolts too. The whole, waiting for WD-40 to take affect was worthless, just drill them out.

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YOu can remove the Chain slider screws and get a hole to drain old water out if need be and to replace with PB-blaster or your choice to get at the back of the bolt! I had a shop take care of mine...what they did was tack a new head of a bolt to it...after it had been soaking and kept working it out...it kept breaking and requiring new head attached but slowly it came out and the threads were cleaned out and are still good. There wasn't a way an easy-out was going to get it out!

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Kroil,

http://www.kanolabs.com/

And a little heat the next day.

My In-Laws are in nashville...I wonder if I can walk in and buy some! I want to try it out!

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I just had this happen to a 03 kx, but the bolts didn't break off they just pulled the threads out with them.:) I was going to heli-coil them but simply tried a long bolt tha goes in the hole with a lock nut.It works fine.But... this is on my 125 not on my torque monster pig.

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Had the same problems on my 650R. Kroil is the stuff I use also, but the stuff in the non aresol can says for industrial use only. We've used this at work for a long time, and if you ask a machine builder, or tool and die guy's, this is what they use. It penetrates to small tolerances. We have the whole line of penetrators and lubricants at work, and this is what I usually choose for frozen equipment. The fix after you get it out is to use Never-seize. This usually fixes the problem. I assume the problem is dissimilar metals being a steel bolt, and an aluminum swingarm=corrosion. The never-seize stuff comes with different compounds as a paste. I would use the copper or graphite.

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Had the same problems on my 650R. Kroil is the stuff I use also, but the stuff in the non aresol can says for industrial use only. We've used this at work for a long time, and if you ask a machine builder, or tool and die guy's, this is what they use. It penetrates to small tolerances. We have the whole line of penetrators and lubricants at work, and this is what I usually choose for frozen equipment. The fix after you get it out is to use Never-seize. This usually fixes the problem. I assume the problem is dissimilar metals being a steel bolt, and an aluminum swingarm=corrosion. The never-seize stuff comes with different compounds as a paste. I would use the copper or graphite.

Good to know about the Kroil!

The corrosion may be one reason but I also think because its relatively sealed if water or something gets in the swing arm...the end of the bolt just sits in it? Mine had moisture in it...from where...I have no clue? But that's the reason I have seen some drilling drain holes at the lowest point? (I 'm not...just will remove the bolt every now and then and make sure its dry inside and will use the anti-seize this time around!)

But I guess it doesn't matter why it happens...its how to fix it...Right? Good info on the Kroil!

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Yeah, a master ASE buddy of mine gave me a can of Kroil. It's the shiznit for sure. I'm from Nashville. I know where the place is, but not sure if you can buy it over the counter there. It's awesome stuff for sure!!!

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Here is a pic and some info. You wont have any corrosion if the metal is protected. Usually if 2 metals are not similar, they tend to corrode. I believe it is ionic bonding. There is an electron exchange that creates "current" which corrodes like your battery terminals. This is why a sacrificial anode is used on boats. Salt water contains halides which are reactive to metal as well as conducting electricity. This is why my CR500 water pump pitted and corroded. Magnesium case, aluminum radiator combined with tap water = major sacrifice to the magnesium. Only use premix or distilled water which has the impurities removed. Had I used pure water, there would be no ION exchange since the metals don't touch. Here is a pic of a more severe reaction. Note many of those pits made their way through to my case!!!! This piece was acid bathed to the bare metal to reveal how bad it was!!! PICT0184.jpg

PICT0181.jpg

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