Problems starting my KTM ????

[ds66]

Woe great. thats for all your help will give it a go asap..

[Rip Wheeler]

toyota, if it is a plugged choke circuit, ho do i fix that?

Ah, brake cleaner is you friend again here. With a can of brake cleaner comes a neat little red straw. Remove carb and bowl, and small hardware inside bowl. Now with straw install on the brake cleaner, poke it onto every passage and blow brake cleaner through it. Remove needles and seats and pull pilot (air of fuel) screw out also and clear it. If you have gunk in one circuit, you may have it in more circuits.

[ds66]

Great done, all I need to do now is test:) thanks for all your help...

btw, this site keeps crashing my firefox browser

[sbest]

Simple things first on a "no-start":

Do you have compression? If not, it is ring time.

Remove the plug, is it wet or dry?

If dry, check you have fuel to the carb (pull line).

Look for spark, connect the plug and kick over.

Plug wet? Turn choke off, hold throttle open and kick over a bunch, replace plug, start with open throttle.

No spark? Replace plug. Heck, replace it anyway!

The right amount of fresh gas, hot spark on time, and compression and it will start in a couple of kicks.

[johnnyswbclinic]

dont give it any throttle when you choke it until after it starts.

[RayIn]

On the first start of the day, the bike doesn't start within 5 kicks, tip it on its side until gas runs out the carb vent hose to prime the intake with gas. Try that out.

[Layton]

On the first start of the day, the bike doesn't start within 5 kicks, tip it on its side until gas runs out the carb vent hose to prime the intake with gas. Try that out.

That's what I was going to say.

[motoking18]

when you take the float bowl off the clean the carb do you have to drain all the gas out of the trank first? is there and alternative?

[Gary jp4]

Just shut the fuel off at the tank first.

Of course if old/bad fuel is the reason you are cleaning the carb then you would want to drain the fuel from the tank first, or after, but before you run it again in any case. ?

Gary

[RedRider97]

its a ktm

[Mike in Fresno]

late to this re-opened post. I too think plugged choke circuit, maybe the pilot jet. Waiting to hear if thats it.

On the top end rebuild get a #2 piston for the rebuild, this way you can order your parts up front. Also clean the PV while its apart. Its just as important to make it run RIGHT as the piston is. It will run with PV dirty or stuck, but wont run RIGHT.

[Rip Wheeler]

its a ktm

And its a good thing as he is in the KTM forum section. ?

[ds66]

I will report back as soon as the bike is back together, hopefully by friday.

What I hve done so far is,

1. checked for spark... all good

2. taken the carby out and cleaned it... all good

3. cleaned the air filter... all good

4. will order a #2 piston kit, but am hoping to make it to the end of the year on the current one.

Just a quick question, Mike why do you say #2 piston I am not sure what the numbers mean?

Thanks

[Gary jp4]

The #2 Vertex piston is 0.01mm (or about .0005") larger in diameter then the standard, or #1 piston (at least on a 250cc machine). A new cylinder is finish honed to fit a #1 piston. When there is any wear, meaning the cylinder is not new, you usually go for the #2 piston to compensate for the larger cylinder bore due to wear. A Nikasil cylinder normally wears quite slowly, but it does wear.

Gary

[ds66]

Thanks Gary, so all I need is the piston, little bearing and a head gasket? anything els? Again thanks for everyones help.

[Gary jp4]

This is going to sound more complicated then it is. You may be able to get all the gaskets in a gasket kit. If you can't you will have to get them separately. Your parts guy should be able to do this easily, but this is what you are looking for.

You should have the exhaust O-ring, two head gaskets (that's a gasket and O-ring), the power valve gasket, and a set of base gaskets (.20, .25, .40, .50, and .75mm thick). You use the different thickness base gaskets to adjust the x dimension which is the edge of the piston to the top of the cylinder. You could probably use the same size as comes out of yours, but you don't know what that is right now. You need all the sizes so you don't have to order one before you can put it together, unless your local parts guy is close and has them in stock. The base gaskets are about 4 to $5 each, in the US, when not part of a gasket kit.

The piston kit should come with the piston, rings, wrist pin, and wrist pin clips.

You probably don't need to replace the wrist pin bearing, but many folks do. I always do, but it is about $20 US. They really don't wear out unless you get dirt in there.

Gary

[Gary jp4]

Looking at a parts diagram will make it more clear.

Click Here, plug in your year, model, then pick "Engine" on the top right side of the box to switch to engine parts and then the parts group you want to see. That would be "CYLINDER 125/200 `99" to see the gaskets, and "CRANKSHAFT, PISTON 125/200 `99" to see the piston, rings, etc. For the exhaust O-ring you will have to switch back to "Chassis" and pick "EXHAUST 125-200 `99".

Hope that helps,

Gary

[ds66]

Wow, didnt relise how many parts are needed. I will get my head around what I need and order them in the next few days. Gary thanks for you time and help.

ds66

[ds66]

Starting Update: after cleaning the carby, fuel filter , fuel tank and the air filter..... she started second kick and idled smooth, thank you all for your help... i am going riding..

[swede426]

Starting Update: after cleaning the carby, fuel filter , fuel tank and the air filter..... she started second kick and idled smooth, thank you all for your help... i am going riding..

Yep, almost always the simplest things, ride on!