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94 kx 80 to 100 conversion? or 105 kit?

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would it be easy to find a kx 100 motor and slap it in or just do a 105 kit? It is a kx 80 big wheel, so the sprockets are already the correct size. It doesn't seem to me like too much innovation has gone into the frames and whatnot since 94. I am worried about having to weld any different mounts. If any of you recall I am the guy the rebuilt my wifes bike with the blue frame and powdercoated rims. Needless to say I am not going to get everything repowdercoated after welding.

Thanks in advance

Greg

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:) i know i am asking more questions on my own thread, but are the bottom ends the same with the piston and cylinders being different? Could I just buy a newer 100 top end with cylinder? What about the powervalve? I am so lost.........:D

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Ok .. lots of questions!

Firstly I beleive the '94 bottom endis quite different to '98 onwards which was when the power valve was introduced so you can't run a later cylinder with this motor ... but this introduces another question ... Would you want the power valves anyway??? CR85 (or KTM) doesn't have them and is a rocket and judged by many to be the best of the 85 motors. Kwaka introduced the power vlave in '98 to compete with the RM80/85 which has a very efficient power valve assmbley offering good low down torque which gives an advantage coming out of corners. HOWEVER the Kwaka power valve design is not as good as the Suzuki for these small capacity engines and it takes too much power to drive the govenor mechanism so whilst it does give more bottom end it sapps too much power overall.

You have a pre power valve motor and these are potentially a more powerful and reliable motor than the later motors but do have a poor low end power... HOWEVER is you are thinking of going to 100 bore this solves many of the problems ... the ports are cast/machined at an angle so when you bore out you effectively lower the ports position in the cylinder and thus gain more low end performance both from port configuration and engine capacity.

Change carb to 28mm Keihin (Kawasaki 15003-1617) It is cheaper to buy it from Kwaka than anywhere else - Strange but true! This will allow you to enjoy the new found low end performance and giveyou additional top end too!

I would get the engine bored and ported by Eric Gorr, he has a lot of experience with these motors and his work is good and well priced.

Further down the line look to pick up some USD forks and a later model shock.

In summary a 100 non power valve motor is arguabley a better option than a later KIPS motor and certainly cheaper and a lot less hassle given that is your starting with that motor base

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