Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

My New RMX 250

Recommended Posts

I just got back from picking up my new toy, a '97 RMX 250 in almost new condition :D completely stock, a few scuffs in the plastics and a dent in the pipe but otherwise very clean .. the paint isn't even worn off the cases or frame :)

suzuki4.jpg

suz2.jpg

I will change the fluids and check it all over and then take it out for a good ride.

It has been a long time since I had to deal with pre-mix ('82 PE175) so I guess I will have to do some searching on here to see what oil I should run.

M

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

very nice.... you will really enjoy the RMX. stock exhaust and hand guards still on it. Looks like very low hours..Wow. Nice find.

when i bought my 94 it was a wore out pig compared to that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used to race a totally modded (by Pro Circuit 97 RMX) LOVED that bike!!

If only Suzuki would build a new one based on the latest RM250, KTM would have some serious competition for the 2 stroke crown.

There I go... dreaming again....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had an RMX 250 '99 and loved it!!!!

It was my first enduro bike and kept it for 3 years. I even entered some enduro races with it and worked just fine.

Congratulations!!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

massrider: Please accept my congratulations also. That RMX appears to be in very, very good condition. Enjoy every minute of it! Yes stroker, keep on dreaming. I too (stupidly) dream about a new RMX. A.J.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, I have been looking for quite a while for the right bike and I found this one on craigslist about an hour and a half away. The pic he had on CL was crappy but he emailed me some more pics and I couldn't believe how good it looked, and when I got there last night it looked even better than the pics !!!

Apparently the first owner looped it and hurt his back just after he bought it and then brought the bike back to the dealer, the guy I bought it from was the second owner and only rode it a few times.

I just spent the past few hours checking it over, I changed the tranny oil, pulled the carb to clean it and check the jetting (the 170mj is the only non-original part on the bike) I think the tires are original, it even has the warning stickers on the rear fender.

I need to do a search on here and check the manual about cleaning the power valve.

Do you guys think I should pull the head and jug to check it out? Do you guys replace the rings every time you pull it apart?

Maybe I will just mix some fresh gas and go get it dirty :)

M

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What a find. I saw that ad and wished I were closer. Good for you.

I'm considering getting back to the RMX, though have to sell my KTM first.

Don't pull/clean the exhaust valve just yet; do it when you rering the piston as the bike appears to have low hours. You can take a quick peak by removing the pipe.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

CONGRATS hope you enjoy your new bike its a great find. As far as the pre mix oil maxima castor 927 is by far the best oil I have used. Go and get it dirty.:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks again guys, I am always waiting to find the problem the PO didn't tell me about bit I haven't found any surprises yet, so i think I'm good :)

I have been searching but haven't found the answers so I have a few questions

1. should I remove the airbox lid or remove the tube and drill some holes in the lid? and what jetting changes would I need to make. current jetting 170mj, 60 pj, stock(?) needle 3rd clip

2. I have only ridden a few laps around the yard but the gearing seems a little high for the tight trails here in the NE, how many of you guys run a 52 rear sprocket?

3. what would you recommend for a skid plate? I also have case savers on my DRZ, do they make them for the RMX? do I need them?

thanks,

M

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks again guys, I am always waiting to find the problem the PO didn't tell me about bit I haven't found any surprises yet, so i think I'm good :)

I have been searching but haven't found the answers so I have a few questions

1. should I remove the airbox lid or remove the tube and drill some holes in the lid? and what jetting changes would I need to make. current jetting 170mj, 60 pj, stock(?) needle 3rd clip

2. I have only ridden a few laps around the yard but the gearing seems a little high for the tight trails here in the NE, how many of you guys run a 52 rear sprocket?

3. what would you recommend for a skid plate? I also have case savers on my DRZ, do they make them for the RMX? do I need them?

thanks,

M

You should ditch the PJ carb and get a PWK38.

The jetting at sea level I have found that works is 50pj, 175mj 1469 needle 3rd clip #7 slide

For higher altitudes (6-7000ft) 48pj 170mj 1472 needle 2nd clip #7 slide seems to work OK

Thsi is all with the airbox lid removed.

The gearing I use is 13/52, it's about right, although I think 13/53 may be better. My RMX is street legal, the 13/52 gearing is a little low for fast street riding between dirt sections

Definately get a decent wrap around skid plate,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1. should I remove the airbox lid or remove the tube and drill some holes in the lid? and what jetting changes would I need to make. current jetting 170mj, 60 pj, stock(?) needle 3rd clip

2. I have only ridden a few laps around the yard but the gearing seems a little high for the tight trails here in the NE, how many of you guys run a 52 rear sprocket?

3. what would you recommend for a skid plate? I also have case savers on my DRZ, do they make them for the RMX? do I need them?

thanks,

M

Remove the airbox lid. It's not necessary and the engine will breathe a lot better. I ride through deep water and deep sand, and have had no problems. I'd suggest getting a Uni filter for it - it will flow better and filter better than the stock filter.

I'd leave the jetting alone until you get a good feel for how it's running.

I put a Works Connection skid plate on mine. Looks good and fits right. You already have case savers (those bars that stick out on the sides beneath the engine.) They work well. If you're going to ride it a lot you might entertain frame guards, so your boots don't rub the paint off the frame. I put some UFO ones (made for an RM) on mine. I had to do a little trimming to get them to fit perfectly and drill some holes for the grease fittings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that thing is mint for 11 years old!.

As for maint. That bike looks super fresh , you probably wont need a ring for a few more rides. I would take her out for a few hours and see how she runs before i put a new ring in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1. should I remove the airbox lid or remove the tube and drill some holes in the lid?

2. I have only ridden a few laps around the yard but the gearing seems a little high for the tight trails here in the NE, how many of you guys run a 52 rear sprocket?

3. what would you recommend for a skid plate?

thanks,

M

1) Don't drill; just remove the lid. It will get plenty of air and remain dry.

Buy a Dynoport or ProCircuit pipe/spark arrester - do not go FMF due to marginal fit and finish.

2) I liked 13/51 for mountains but you may want to go 52 or 53. 52 caused the front to lift out of berms when I wacked the throttle - the 51 was perfect for me.

Consider EFM as they can make your clutch an auto, then gearing will be less of an issue.

3) A Works Connection or Devol glide plate as the factory case savers do a good job, allow airflow, and don't retain mud/reflect noise like those shovel type. Let us know where you find one as they are no longer listed on their websites.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Works Connection has the glide plate listed and they have their heavy duty offroad skid plate listed on closeout for a few dollars less, does anybody know if the skid plate fits with the stock case savers in place?

I'll pull the air box lid and leave the jetting as is for now and see how it runs.

I really want to check the exhaust valve and it looks like the easiest way is to pull the jug, I ordered a Cometic top end gasket kit and then on saturday I stopped at a suzuki dealer I happened to drive by (about 60 miles from home) to see if he had any parts in stock, he had the base and two exhaust valve cover gaskets in stock for a few dollars apiece (I bought them) but told me he would have to order the head gasket but it was over $40!! is that right?

Also, is it a single ring piston? the manual shows a two ring piston but the parts micro fiche only shows one and says only one is required?

Has anyone used aftermarket rings on the stock piston?

Placelast, do you use a EFM auto clutch? I actually have not heard of them before.

I run a Rekluse in my DRZ but I don't think they make one for the RMX, I think an auto clutch in a 2 stroke would be the hot setup.

Thanks again,

M

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't recall which Works Connection plate I put on mine; I believe they only listed one. At any rate, it fits perfectly and does not interfere with the stock case savers.

Try an RM250 head gasket - they're a little thinner for a little more compression. I see the stock head gaskets listed for $28-32 plus shipping. I've gotten lots of NOS and Cometic gaskets on eBay really cheaply.

I believe all the RMXs use single ring pistons (mine does.) I imagine an aftermarket ring would work OK on the stock piston - just test fit it to make sure it doesn't bind.

Many early RM250 parts ('89-'92) fit the RMXs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Works skid plate requires removal of the case savers, if that's what you want. The glide plate complements the case savers - goes in between the frame rails, filling the gap, starboard to port.

You will need to richen up the jetting when you pull the lid: more air needs more fuel, otherwise you will run dangerously lean.

Baloney on the head gasket costing $40. Do buy the OEM 1989 RM250 head gasket or the Cometic HiPerf top end kit to get the same results.

Most RMX piston kits (OEM, Niks & Wiesco) have two-ring pistons for better sealing at trail RPM; most MX bikes have one ring (high RPM). THe former last longer and is better suited for off road.

You can use Niks rings on an OEM piston as they are both made by ART in Japan.

EFM is a distant 3rd maker of autoclutches. RevLoc and Rekluse do not make one nor will bother to make a one-off for the RMX, though EFM will.

An auto in a smoker would be a hot setup; moreover in an RMX.

I have a RevLoc, and will certainly buy and EFM if I get another RMX; having one makes difficult obstacles and situations easier - well worth the high cost. I was a skeptic until trying one myself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...