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Why is my throttle not returning?

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My throttle is sticking very badly. Hard to roll on... then sticks open (does not return). I pulled the cables, and ran copious amounts of WD-40 through them to clean out an gunk that may have built up in them... put it all back together... and it's still doing it.

I cleaned the carb when rebuilding the top-end last month, and I checked the slide again... the carb itself if moving freely ~ it's somewhere in the cables or throttle set-up.

Ideas?

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moe than likely a cracked throttle tube.I just had that happen to me and it was that stock plastic throttle tube.. it had a crack in it.

Then when i replaced it I was a little sloppy with the glue and I run acerbis hand guards, so the ends of the grips are cut off and glue got between the throttle tube and bars, total newbie move ..I had to cut them off and get new grips.. no more grip glue for me. I used paint (basic flat black paint) then safety wire.. no more stuck throttle.

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After messing with it more, I think my cables are binding up in their housing. When the handlebars are full left, it doesn't stick... when they're full right, it sticks.

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make sure your routing of the cables is correct.Are they pulling or catching on anything ......

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make sure your routing of the cables is correct.Are they pulling or catching on anything ......

Ya, they're certainly catching. I changed the routing, because I put risers on, and needed more length.

I guess I'll have to break-down and by longer cables, because the routing just isn't allowing them to move freely. :)

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Ya, they're certainly catching. I changed the routing, because I put risers on, and needed more length.

I guess I'll have to break-down and by longer cables, because the routing just isn't allowing them to move freely. :)

When I put my Eddy Pumper on I ended up getting custom cables that were 2 inches longer than the stock ones. Even with those cables I had to run them behind the bars then though the top head to frame mount. They now work flawlessly from lock to lock. IMHO the Honda factory cable routing sucks!

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When I put my Eddy Pumper on I ended up getting custom cables that were 2 inches longer than the stock ones. Even with those cables I had to run them behind the bars then though the top head to frame mount. They now work flawlessly from lock to lock. IMHO the Honda factory cable routing sucks!

I agree that the routing isn't great.

Where'd you get your cables from?

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I agree that the routing isn't great.

Where'd you get your cables from?

I got them from Motion Pro. While I was at it I got a quick ratio throttle assembly from them too. :)

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If it's a two cable push/pull XR600 type setup throw the push one away..You only need the pull one for the carbs to work.

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If it's a two cable push/pull XR600 type setup throw the push one away..You only need the pull one for the carbs to work.

...and then ur throttle sticks at WOT :D

there are only a few causes...carb return spring problem, cables mis-adjusted, cables warn/hanging up, problem in routing, & problem throttle assembly/tube...also anything attached to the bar ends.

:)

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...and then ur throttle sticks at WOT :D

there are only a few causes...carb return spring problem, cables mis-adjusted, cables warn/hanging up, problem in routing, & problem throttle assembly/tube...also anything attached to the bar ends.

:)

It's surly routing. As I move it around, it gets better and worse. I'll have to get longer cables in order to go what I'd like to it...

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Quote"""...and then ur throttle sticks at WOT

I have removed the push cable and my throttle sticks nowhere..(one less surface to create binding)Think of a standard single carb and ask yourself why it works with just one cable.I call it Honda paranoia,,2 of something when you only need one similar to the dual carbs on the early model 250/500/600's..However feel free to use both cables if you like.

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...and then ur throttle sticks at WOT :worthy:

there are only a few causes...carb return spring problem, cables mis-adjusted, cables warn/hanging up, problem in routing, & problem throttle assembly/tube...also anything attached to the bar ends.

:D

I'm with Kenzo on using BOTH the push and pull cables +1 :)

The push cable is there as a safety to return the carb to idle if it gets stuck at WOT because the slide is stuck open, which can be caused by the vacuum created on the intake side of the engine. This is especially true on bigger bore performance carbs.

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Can see we are always going to beg to differ.Do you really expect a multi strand wire cable to be able to apply any force on an object by it pushing on it..Its at least in a plastic and metal casing I suppose but unless it's a solid internal piece of wire I see it as next to useless for anything..Best thing that can be said about it is you could use it as a spare if one breaks.

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Can see we are always going to beg to differ.Do you really expect a multi strand wire cable to be able to apply any force on an object by it pushing on it..Its at least in a plastic and metal casing I suppose but unless it's a solid internal piece of wire I see it as next to useless for anything..Best thing that can be said about it is you could use it as a spare if one breaks.

ur taking the term "push pull" literally...that's incorrect :D

one cable pulls the throttle open...

and the other cable pulls it closed...

without the "other" cable u only have the carb spring to close the carb slide...if cable breaks, snags, kinks, spring breakes, etc... :worthy:

:)

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I'm having this identical problem with Pro Taper CR Hi bars and risers. I’ve spent close to 8 hours on the throttle assembly alone in the past few days. My new MotionPro throttle cables, and tube should be here in a few days but I’m wondering if this will fix the problem.

So far, I’ve tried the following:

- re-routed the cables behind the bars

- disassembled the throttle assembly and cleaned, lubed

- inspected, cleaned and lubed the cables

- inspected and properly routed the cables under the tank

- sanded the end of the throttle tube to ensure smooth clearance of barkbusters

- sanded bars with 400 grit and lubed

- cleaned throttle tube

The only thing that has worked for me (and a last resort) is removing the “push” cable. Does anyone know why the "push" cable is so susceptible to placement while the "pull" cable seems to work no matter where you run it? My throttle is working almost flawlessly now but I’m a bit apprehensive to ride without the “push” cable.

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I'm having this identical problem with Pro Taper CR Hi bars and risers. I’ve spent close to 8 hours on the throttle assembly alone in the past few days. My new MotionPro throttle cables, and tube should be here in a few days but I’m wondering if this will fix the problem.

So far, I’ve tried the following:

- re-routed the cables behind the bars

- disassembled the throttle assembly and cleaned, lubed

- inspected, cleaned and lubed the cables

- inspected and properly routed the cables under the tank

- sanded the end of the throttle tube to ensure smooth clearance of barkbusters

- sanded bars with 400 grit and lubed

- cleaned throttle tube

The only thing that has worked for me (and a last resort) is removing the “push” cable. Does anyone know why the "push" cable is so susceptible to placement while the "pull" cable seems to work no matter where you run it? My throttle is working almost flawlessly now but I’m a bit apprehensive to ride without the “push” cable.

if the cable is in gud shape and everything is installed correctly then ur problem cud be as simple as gett'n adjusted correctly...u need to have the throttle free play adjusted correctly...the Clymer Manual explains it and wud assume the honda shop manual in the FAQ's does also...

:)

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Ok..Lets continue..Think of the cable.What we have is a cable made up of multiple strands of wire..Not all of it is contained within the plastic and metal casing.You have the two ends which have nothing around them.(hence they are free to roam) If you tried to apply any pressure to the throttle cable to get the carb to close because it's stuck open all that would happen is either the end of the cable at the carb or the end at the throttle housing would kink before it shifted anything.I rest my case...Easy test...Remove all the springs from the carb/carbs and then try using only the cables to work the carb...then add the jammed scenario.

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Ok..Lets continue..Think of the cable.What we have is a cable made up of multiple strands of wire..Not all of it is contained within the plastic and metal casing.You have the two ends which have nothing around them.(hence they are free to roam) If you tried to apply any pressure to the throttle cable to get the carb to close because it's stuck open all that would happen is either the end of the cable at the carb or the end at the throttle housing would kink before it shifted anything.I rest my case...Easy test...Remove all the springs from the carb/carbs and then try using only the cables to work the carb...then add the jammed scenario.

BUZZZZT...wrong again! :banghead:

...unless they make them backwards down ur way :ride:

...u didn't help defend OJ did ya??? :D

...they shuda named this style of throttle assembly a "pull-pull" to avoid confusion... i understand ur point it's easier to pull a rope than push one :) ...that point is well taken...but there is no pushing going on here..."pull-pull".

:worthy:

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