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cbr f2 wheels on the ..z..

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so after the 8 pms Igot form my post on rearsets here's the low down.

what up .for starters these are only aproximat specs a place to start.please use a micromator there so much more accurte then every thing elese.

whellconversionspecs.jpg

ok lets get started the rear rotor i didn't touch.had to completely remove the cush drive bearing, and when it was all said and done had the cushdrive welded to the rim at a propshop.belive it or not the axel shafts are the same front and rear.the front rim was a littly tricky since it has shoulderd bolts for the rotor.i used chrome spacers and figuerd them in to my milling depth

if you have the cbr spacers thats all you need, had the shave them a bit to make perfect.sproket specelist makes the sprocket you need.rember you need a 520 chain coversion sprocket as the cbr has a wider chain.had to remove the sproket studs replaced with bolts. had shave the bolt heads to clear the chain block.rear brake rotor is same size no trouble there.the front i used a ebc 280 kit it gave me a relocater bracket and rotor for dirt set up.that about covers it.oh and remeber patience makes perfect and yes the spacers work . width shouldent change the hub work though because 4.5 and 5 use the same swing arm in 94'and heres's csome pics of them on the sinister-z:worthy:

IMGP0010.jpg

IMGP0011.jpg

feel free to ask questins will answer if i can.

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Two questions :) First, whats that yellow thing hanging down by your battery, and two, what the heck is a cush drive?

Edit - ahhh...closer inspection reveals it. A rotor lock! See question two!

the cush drive is on the sprocket side the rim has a hole in it the size of the hub area you can't see it but it has about ten teeth in it and the sprocket carrier also has ten teeth on it these are two separete pieces heres where it gets interresting it also has little rubber blocks between each set of teeth.so when you shift or brake it cushes the the resitance thus the name (cush drive) hope this enlightens you and not confuse you even more.later

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question

whats with the left hand rotor with no caliper?

I liked the look of the rotor on the rim. rather just a milled down rim I had to mill both sides regardless the brake rotor tabes clipped the forks.all in all it just looked cleaner.

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the cush drive is on the sprocket side the rim has a hole in it the size of the hub area you can't see it but it has about ten teeth in it and the sprocket carrier also has ten teeth on it these are two separete pieces heres where it gets interresting it also has little rubber blocks between each set of teeth.so when you shift or brake it cushes the the resitance thus the name (cush drive) hope this enlightens you and not confuse you even more.later

Ahhh. I follow, a 'cushioned drive.' Neat! I can see how it'd help dampen the drivetrain jerking from throttle changes, but is there another reason for doing it?

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Looks very cool, I like the look with the 6 thin spokes. Looks "light" but not as busy as the Marchesini. It does look like it is a little more work than some I've seen. But worth it.... :)

If someone were to sticky a post about sport bike wheel conversions I would love to have a fixed post to add my stuff to. If you do not mind I will plagarize your info. I get a pm a week for hooligan info, this looks like a great option! :D

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Two questions :) First, whats that yellow thing hanging down by your battery, and two, what the heck is a cush drive?

Edit - ahhh...closer inspection reveals it. A rotor lock! See question two!

Ahhh. I follow, a 'cushioned drive.' Neat! I can see how it'd help dampen the drivetrain jerking from throttle changes, but is there another reason for doing it?

Just to add a visual of a cush drive.

cush1.jpg

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Looks very cool, I like the look with the 6 thin spokes. Looks "light" but not as busy as the Marchesini. It does look like it is a little more work than some I've seen. But worth it.... :)

If someone were to sticky a post about sport bike wheel conversions I would love to have a fixed post to add my stuff to. If you do not mind I will plagarize your info. I get a pm a week for hooligan info, this looks like a great option! :D

post the world with the info it's for everyone whose had the vison but lacked forsight to acopmlish it.by all means pass it on!!!!!!!!

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i DON'T KNOW ABOUT ANY YEAR BUT THE F2 F3 SERIES CBR FOR SURE.MYH DONNER WAS A 94'

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Awesome looking bike man. Love the wheels, as you can tell i'm new to the forum. I've been thinking about picking up a DRZ for the street and keeping the 07 GSXR600 for the track. The one thing I wonder....aren't those F2 wheels even more heavy than the stock spokers??

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For the weights No idea on the CBR stuff but the GS front is within a pound the GSXR rear was about 10 to 15% heavier than stock rim with knobs and rim lock. Given the cush drive and it being a 4.5" width that's not surprising.

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I didn't want to start a new thread, but I did want to make a comment on this one and look for some advise. I noticed that you kept the dual rotor setup in the front so that it doesn't look incomplete. Ever thought about dual calipers?

I have a somewhat unique situation. When I came across a set of ohlins forks off of a Cannondale E440 everything looked great with them and so they came home with me to use on a project. My problem is that I was given two left side forks, so there is a brake mount on each side. I think I can have a local machine shop build an axle that will work with the continuous diameter of each of them. However, that is still to be seen.

My question is that would it be reasonable to think that if you had brake calipers mounts on each side, and bought a set of rims that had rotors on each side, that you could run a dual rotor and caliper setup on the front of a supermoto bike? I am just asking because I do not want to do anything that will be super dangerous and somewhat stupid. I will be using the forks like they are, regardless. I was just wondering if there was any information on going with a dual brake setup. thank you for your time.

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very good question and big bummer on the 2 leftys.before i answer this is strictly basic mechanics figuring not acttual real world testing alright lets get started a (sport bike system is typically made up of a large master cylinder to move 2 2-pot calipers.most dirt bikes are 1 pot or very small 2-pot i know that motomaster sells 320rotor and 4pot caliper W/a larger master cylinder so i dont see why a typical 500cc 750cc class system with 2 pot calipers and 280 rotors shouldn't work it makes sense on paper but real world testing might be differnt.just don't grab handful of brake.

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It would be nice & cool if someone would make a kit for the cbr or gs wheels. Then we (people with little to no machine skills) could buy the wheels and the kit and be good to go for some hooliganism! 👍

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