Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

mobil twin oil

Recommended Posts

i have a 2008 650l . what do you think about using mobil v twin oil ?mobil claims high temperature, less oil breakdown, and formulated for clutches and geartrain..it wuz developed for antique designed harley-ferganson motors not real motos,,.,.,.the honda dealer only pushes honda oil like anything but honda oil will make your honda explode...back when i had a yz i got good experience rebuilding top ends because i used yamalube like the dealer said....not again;;;;

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've heard great things about it...Cost was my issue...if you don't mind it...go for it and enjoy without worries!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Since I completed break-in and summer hit, Mobil V-Twin is all I have been using. When it gets cooler out, I'll switch back to the Mobil 10w40 synthetic. They're both about $10 per qt. at AutoZone and with the amount of riding I do, I cringe a little each time I need to buy some, but with the amount of riding I do, I'd like to keep from having to rebuild any sooner than necessary. Since December I've put over 7200 miles on a bike that was brand new.

-Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been using it for over 8K miles. Works great! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not that is probably matters, but I am pretty sure that the Honda HP oils are made by Mobil anyway. I know that when my dealer orders all of his Honda oil it comes directly from the Mobil distributor, not Honda.

I've been using the HP 20w50M for years. I hate to pay for it, but my R runs much better with it in there. I will happily use Rotella synthetic, but my seals like to start to leak if I use the Rotella or other lower priced oils for a long period of time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI when buying at AUTO ZONE get their card and every $20 purchase will get you a purchase, once you get 5 purchases over $20 they give you a $20 gift card. Thats what i do cuz i buy my oil there and i use the Mobil 4T in the streetbike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

01 650l, 30,000 miles. Run Castrol20-50 since 1,200 miles just now needs cam chain.

06 Suzuki S40, 15,000 miles. Run holy Mobil since break in, had cam chain repair at 14,000 miles.

I do all my own maintenance and reapares, and am very thourogh, and document every thing that is done.

Both engines are of very similar design, and was in no way wanting Mobil to fail to living up to expectations in my eyes. I like my bikes and want them to last as long as possible, but the Suzuki had issues at the miles that dino oiled S40's have the same issue, leading me to belive that Mobil does not lubricate any better. I am no longer going to use it. Syn oil may have a place in racing or other extreme aplications, but not in mostly stock machines. A motorcycle engine is'nt quite the same as a jet engine. DSers don't fear the dino, or the wind the sun and the rain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you never ride in temps below 50-60 degrees, M1 V-Twin and Amsoil MCV are two of the absolute best oils available.

http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/oil.xls

Both M1 and Amsoil tested in-grade for 50wt oils after 2,000 miles, and M1 tested as having JUST sheared down to a heavy 40wt after 6,000 miles.

Every other oil tested came out as a 30wt after only 2,000 miles.

If you NEVER ride in temps above 90-100 degrees, I would recommend sticking with a 10w40 such as M1 Racing-4T (same stuff as the old MX-4T) or Amsoil MCF.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If you never ride in temps below 50-60 degrees, M1 V-Twin and Amsoil MCV are two of the absolute best oils available.

http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/oil/oil.xls

Both M1 and Amsoil tested in-grade for 50wt oils after 2,000 miles, and M1 tested as having JUST sheared down to a heavy 40wt after 6,000 miles.

Every other oil tested came out as a 30wt after only 2,000 miles.

If you NEVER ride in temps above 90-100 degrees, I would recommend sticking with a 10w40 such as M1 Racing-4T (same stuff as the old MX-4T) or Amsoil MCF.

Very interesting test results. Thanks for that chart.

I'm surprised my GTX didn't do too badly. Especially that I change it at 1k miles.

What was the test bike?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm surprised my GTX didn't do too badly. Especially that I change it at 1k miles.

What was the test bike?

I was very happy to see GTX do as well as any of the automotive synthetics.

The test bike is a 2006 Kawi Vulcan 1600 V-Twin. Wet clutch, and shared engine/tranny oil so I have the same issue with the gearbox shredding the oil that I do on the Yamaha. Got close to 30k on that engine now. Everything before the first 8k was solo riding, mostly local runs. Since then it's been about 75% 2-up, with a lot of long highway runs at high speeds (75-85)... and that's heavily loaded. Bike's weight limit is 400lbs, between me and the OL, we're 465, plus all of the chrome and luggage... but I still get 14k out of my rear tire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an '84 XL 600R with 6300 miles on the clock. Would you recommend a synthetic for that bike?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have an '84 XL 600R with 6300 miles on the clock. Would you recommend a synthetic for that bike?

Nope. Go with a conventional "Dino" oil. Non synthetic. Just change the oil and filter at 1K. miles. Recent test's show Castrol GTX(non-energy conserving) hold up almost as well as most synthetics....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nope. Go with a conventional "Dino" oil. Non synthetic. Just change the oil and filter at 1K. miles. Recent test's show Castrol GTX(non-energy conserving) hold up almost as well as most synthetics....

Isn't that car motor oil? If it is not, where do I get it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I read all those test saying how syn oil is far superior than dino oil, all that might prove on paper the better qualities, but I want to see absolute engine longevity test, and I have'nt read about one of those yet. Not two bikes with syn and dino oils run on a dyno in a lab, but maybe four identical bikes two of each with syn and dino, and run thru rain, snow, mountains, deserts and everything that a real machine will see, until the wheels fall off, and then and only then if the syn oil machines had at least a third more miles/hours before total failure, will I accept it works in the real world. I have personaly seen and owned cars/trucks with 250,000-350,000 run exclusively on dino. Who's gona spend the $$ for a real world comparison?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Isn't that car motor oil? If it is not, where do I get it?

You can get it at any parts house. Just be sure not to get the GTX that says "energy conserving" on the back.

I read all those test saying how syn oil is far superior than dino oil, all that might prove on paper the better qualities, but I want to see absolute engine longevity test, and I have'nt read about one of those yet. Not two bikes with syn and dino oils run on a dyno in a lab, but maybe four identical bikes two of each with syn and dino, and run thru rain, snow, mountains, deserts and everything that a real machine will see, until the wheels fall off, and then and only then if the syn oil machines had at least a third more miles/hours before total failure, will I accept it works in the real world. I have personaly seen and owned cars/trucks with 250,000-350,000 run exclusively on dino. Who's gona spend the $$ for a real world comparison?

I am with you. With 1k. mile oil changes with filter, an engine will last damn near forever with the GTX I use.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I like my bikes and want them to last as long as possible, but the Suzuki had issues at the miles that dino oiled S40's have the same issue, leading me to belive that Mobil does not lubricate any better. I am no longer going to use it. Syn oil may have a place in racing or other extreme aplications, but not in mostly stock machines.

That is EXACTLY what I have been saying for a long time now. :) Just ask martinfan30. :D I did try Mobil 1 once, but the bike didn't run any cooler/better. I did notice a significant weight reduction, though.......in my wallet.

Petroleum oils are far and away more advanced and much better than they were 20 years ago. More often than not, it is unnecessary to use a synthetic. Heck, Bibleman sent some Rotella petroleum oil in for analysis after it spent 1000mi in his 650L's engine and the lab said the oil had another 500-1000mi of life left, meaning that it was still providing lots of proper lubrication at the "end" of the change interval.

That said, I'm not here to tell anyone they are wrong for using synthetic. I'm just emphasizing that it's probably not needed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...